Multnomah Falls, Portland, Oregon
/forum/topic/823826/0

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Oregon Gal
Registered: Nov 02, 2008
Total Posts: 1026
Country: United States

I have a B/W conversion of Multnomah Falls and would like opinions and suggestions on improving the image. I have included the original color version as well. Thanks, Barbara



papageno
Registered: Jul 03, 2003
Total Posts: 3437
Country: United States

I'd consider burning both sides of this image to focus the viewer on the water.



AuntiPode
Registered: Aug 05, 2008
Total Posts: 4922
Country: New Zealand

For the original, the light is quite soft. To give it more snap, try a PS duplicate layer with the Soft Light blending mode and adjust the opacity slider to somewhere between 40% and 70%. Also some USM would probably help. A slightly different crop might also benefit. Perhaps a little off the top and right side.

For a B & W version, I'd suggest playing with the color sliders for a darker foliage to give the water greater contrast.



Bob Jarman
Registered: Feb 04, 2007
Total Posts: 3723
Country: United States

Barbara,

As aesthetically pleasing as they are to view in person, I've had little success in capturing the grandeur and scope of waterfalls - in short, a difficult subject, at least IMO. My most recent failed attempts were at Watson Falls...maybe better next time

I agree with AuntiPode, #1 is flat and soft, #2 could stand some pop.

Although I've been there, we did not have an opportunity to explore different vantage points so I do not know the accessibility, but the next time perhaps something other than the frontal view would add more uniqueness and interest to the image. Maybe you already have something in the 'set'?

regards,

Bob



Oregon Gal
Registered: Nov 02, 2008
Total Posts: 1026
Country: United States

Robert, AuntiPode & Bob, I appreciate all of your suggestions. The first image in color is just a straight conversion with no additional adjustments. I am always afraid to process with too much contrast. I tried again with a slightly different crop, adjusting the brightness, constrast, added a vignette and boosted the lighter areas to draw the eye in. I have also done some dodging and burning. Please let me know if I am on the right track or show me your versions so I may understand your visions. Thanks, Barbara



AuntiPode
Registered: Aug 05, 2008
Total Posts: 4922
Country: New Zealand

Here's an example of a less centered crop to consider that retains some of the upper falls. It also includes B & W conversion color slider tweaks and some dodging and burning:



Bert DeMars
Registered: Nov 05, 2005
Total Posts: 155
Country: United States

Barbara,

I think the shot cooks in color. It must have been an overcast day to get such great detail in the shadow areas. The trees at the top make a great frame for the bridge. If you have a shot that includes the tops of the trees (especially the trees in the upper left), you could do a horizontal crop just above the bottom falls line so that you don’t know what the depth of the canyon is, and it would have a nice visual flow between the upper falls, the trees, and the bridge. The two people viewing the falls, makes the shot. You might change the color of the person’s white jacket, so it isn’t the same as the falls; and clone out the white spot in the middle of the bridge.

Nice work.

Bert



Kstenger
Registered: Nov 09, 2005
Total Posts: 118
Country: United States

1) Rotate the image so the bridge is horizontal (Level)
2) Perform a high pass sharpening filter in Photoshop by doing the following:
- Duplicat the Image Layer
- Top Layer - Highpass filter (it is in the filter menu)
- Setting somewhere between 1 and 2 just until you see an outline of the image
- Set Blending Mode to Overlay
3) Merge the Highpass Layer and the Background Layer
4) Perform a slight USM on the image with the following setting:
- Threshold : 0
- Radius : 80
- Amount : 30%
5) Convert the color type to Lab Color
- Adjust Curves
- For both the A and B curve:
- Drag the bottom left end of the diaginal line to the right to about 115
- Drag the Top right end of the diagonal line to the left to about 115
6) Convert back to RGB Color


These changes should make it a nice image and do the following:

2) Sharpen
4) Remove Haze
5) Brighten Dull Colors (Without over saturating)

Goodluck
Ken



Bob Jarman
Registered: Feb 04, 2007
Total Posts: 3723
Country: United States

Barbara,

Two other versions - I used Capture NX - not that it makes any difference, and converted the color version for the BW.

Tried to reduce the the softness of #1, add a little pop for BW as well as a hint of toning...



This image is copyrighted by the owner






This image is copyrighted by the owner




Bob


AuntiPode
Registered: Aug 05, 2008
Total Posts: 4922
Country: New Zealand

Personally, I have no problem with the bridge at a small angle as long as the waterfall edge is horizontal.



Bob Jarman
Registered: Feb 04, 2007
Total Posts: 3723
Country: United States

AuntiPode wrote:
Personally, I have no problem with the bridge at a small angle as long as the waterfall edge is horizontal.



Agreed, I 'leveled' and just didn't look right - imagine you could use CS3, transform - distortion and get there if one must.



sbeme
Registered: Dec 23, 2003
Total Posts: 12716
Country: United States

A version from LR/Silver Efex using the color image.

Worked on bumping contrast, "structure", selective color filtering, highlight recovery. A bit of burning on edges only. A slight bit of shadow recovery, brightening at the end. Wish there was still a bit more detail in the brightest area of the water.

I do like AuntiPode's suggestion of off-centering the falls.

Scott



Oregon Gal
Registered: Nov 02, 2008
Total Posts: 1026
Country: United States

Bob, AuntiPode, Bert, Scott, Ken, you all have such great suggestions and ideas. I learn so much from each of you. I can't seem to put my finger on it but something to me isn't quite right with the image. (I may just have to re-shoot the falls when I go back up that way). I wish when I shot these pictures that I bracketed the shots for more range, but I did at least use a neutral density filter. I will continue to try different things and see if I can't come up with a pleasing combination. I will post another pic when I finish the pp'ing. Thanks, Barbara



AuntiPode
Registered: Aug 05, 2008
Total Posts: 4922
Country: New Zealand

Getting good waterfall images can be very difficult. So much depends upon the light, as landscapes usually do.



newhaven
Registered: Mar 16, 2008
Total Posts: 265
Country: United States

My try.



This image is copyrighted by the owner




Bob Jarman
Registered: Feb 04, 2007
Total Posts: 3723
Country: United States

newhave,

I like how you were able to recover detail in the water - mind sharing how?

Bob



newhaven
Registered: Mar 16, 2008
Total Posts: 265
Country: United States

I used the method described here in combination with shadow/highlights. I will add a little bit more later, but this is most of it.

http://www.goodlight.us/writing/luminositypainting/luminositypainting-1.html



Bob Jarman
Registered: Feb 04, 2007
Total Posts: 3723
Country: United States

newhaven wrote:
I used the method described here in combination with shadow/highlights. I will add a little bit more later, but this is most of it.

http://www.goodlight.us/writing/luminositypainting/luminositypainting-1.html


Thanks,

Bob



Oregon Gal
Registered: Nov 02, 2008
Total Posts: 1026
Country: United States

Bob, I am glad you asked Newhaven that question. This forum just gets better and better with the wealth of knowledge that gets shared.

AuntiPode, Bob, Newhaven & Scott nice re-work of the image, Thanks for sharing, Barbara



newhaven
Registered: Mar 16, 2008
Total Posts: 265
Country: United States

Here is a better way to add detail to the falls. This method involves looking for the channel with the best diffuse highlights. Since every file has ten channels, we open the original file in RGB (3 channels) and a duplicate in CMYK (4 channels). We don't need a LAB version (3 channels) this time.

The CYAN channel in the CMYK version has slightly better detail than any of the RGB channels, so using the Apply Image command, the CYAN channel can be copied to a new layer above the original Background layer in the RGB file.

With the new layer selected open the Curves dialog (Ctrl-m), and drag the top right curve point down so the Output = 230. Set the blend mode to Multiply.

Following Tony Kuyper's tutorial on luminosity masks, make a Super Lights mask in RGB.

Load it and click on the mask icon at the bottom of the masks palette. Blur the layer mask with Gaussian Blur (radius 2).

Make a duplicate copy of the new layer and mask (Ctrl-j). Select the duplicate layers and type Ctrl-g and use the opacity slider to adjust the effect.


This image is copyrighted by the owner



Commands:

File> Open... [mfalls.jpg] [OK]

Image> Duplicate... [mfalls_cmyk] [OK]

Edit> Convert to Profile [Working CMYK -U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2] [OK]


Highlight the RGB file.
Layer> New...> Layer [OK]

Make sure the new layer is activated (working layer).
Image> Apply Image...


This image is copyrighted by the owner




Make a Super Lights luminosity mask according to Tony Kuyper's instructions. Load it.


This image is copyrighted by the owner




Layer> Layer Mask> Reveal Selection. Or, you can create an empty layer mask on Layer 1 and use Apply Image to copy the Super Lights channel directly into the layer mask.


This image is copyrighted by the owner



Filter> Blur> Gaussian Blur... (radius 2) [OK].

Duplicate Layer 1. Create a group for Layer 1 and Layer 1 copy.


This image is copyrighted by the owner



Adjust the opacity.


This image is copyrighted by the owner






References:


Professional Photoshop 5th Edition by Dan Margulis

http://www.goodlight.us/writing/luminositymasks/luminositymasks-1.html


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