I would be willing to help with a 58 or three. Maybe we could work out a trade for one?

in addition to take photo as you go. I would also label all the stuff(ie, screws, springs, ball bearings and etc) that are being removed along the way. I would make sketch like those assemble diagram you get for self assemble bookself(from Walmart and etc). This will eliminate the guess work of "should this really tiny screw goes to this small hole or to the other similar small hole".

good luck

Just FYI, since very often the lubricants are affected by heat (you can get oily aperture blades if it gets too hot) you can also put the moist lenses in dry uncooked rice at room temperature.

You have gotten a lot of good advice. I can only add a couple of things. 1) It can be done. Since the repair shop have to do the same thing. 2) You need the proper tool. You may wind up with some duplicate tool but don't be afraid to get the high quality tools. The cost of your lens is priceless compare to the tool. 3) Don't drink when you are doing it. All the joking aside from all the other members you need a sharp mind to make the proper decision while you are taking them apart. 4) Proceed slowly. Just because one lens comes apart easily doesn't mean another one will do the same. 5) Use common sense. If something won't budge it make be glued together. Like some screw may have loctite on them. 6) Take pictures as you go along. That way you can figure out how to put something back together. 7) I suggest starting on the back elements first. They are smaller and the parts are generally easier to come apart. There are less chances for you to scratch the lens because the spanner is not opened as wide as the front element. 8) Make sure you know how the aperture levers work. 9) Disassemble like you are taking apart a live bomb.

Incredible thread so far. My thanks again to all. The fog is lifting ....

It took me a while to find this RUBBER STOPPER dingus (for removing the filter ring) If anyone else looking for the same, Micro Tools calls this a "Lens Ring." I'm ordering the gum rubber set.
---------------

Question regarding spanners:

Is it enough to get the A, B & D blades, or do I need all five? Also, which is better, the standard handle, or the long handle?

There's also this vertical type:
http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=SP1
It's much cheaper than the other type, and would seem to offer more leverage, but it doesn't come with interchangeable tips. Is that a problem?


Jim Buchana says he uses a $30 spanner wrench, which is shockingly inexpensive. Jim, which one specifically do you have?

Cableaddict wrote:
Where do I get this RUBBER STOPPER dingus? None of the articles I've collected explain this.


I got mine at a hardware store (black rubber drain stoppers). I bought several sizes, I think a #11 or #12 is about 49mm on one side and ~55mm on the other side. I don't recall the dimensions of the bigger ones. I will measure the bigger ones at home tonight.

Thomas

Cableaddict wrote:

Jim Buchana says he uses a $30 spanner wrench, which is shockingly inexpensive. Jim, which one specifically do you have?

I think its the 1054B.

Thanks.


BTW - I found some extra help at the following site, and they also have a LARGE collection of member-submitted repair guides & manuals:

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/repairtools.html

I would be careful with 2 of the tool items he mentioned:

1. Kleenex - I think it has wood particles in it. I wouldn't chance it to clean the lens glass with. The lens tissue is worth the investment.

2. Can of Air - You may introduce more moisture and/or oil to the surface. Get a big Pocket Rocket instead.

About the oven thing... check the working temp ranges for your lenses, especially the ones with electronics. I am sure something like 100*F for a short time is ok or else they wouldn't be able to sell any lenses to use in the deserts!!!

Thanks for the suggestion about the fungus cleaning on v700. I got one glass more or less cleaned; although was afraid of applying the Pond's cream without testing it first, so the cream is in the backburner for now.

i am wondering whether you might want to try a less invasive maneuver with some of the cheaper lenses you have and dip them into pure alcohol, then blow-dry. note that i have never tried that before, but am assuming that if you dip the lens into alcohol sideways, it will lift minor debris and as you lift the lens and let the alcohol drip from the lens, the debris will settle on the barrel wall, which means no effect on image quality. alcohol should also help get rid of the watery marks on the lens elements themselves. it will not clean any fungi, but will surely kill it. i don't know though how alcohol reacts with the cement used to seal the lens elements. again, i have never done this, so i wouldn't do this with any except the cheapest lens to try it out first...

Alcohol could dissolve the grease on the helical and then deposit it on the lens as the alcohol drains out.

Tom Harpstead wrote:
Alcohol could dissolve the grease on the helical and then deposit it on the lens as the alcohol drains out.

you would not want that for sure...

I use annhydrous methanol, for lens cleaning. Low molecular weight for higher volatility and no water.

Never heard of that, Jim. Where do you buy it?

With the rubber lens rings, make SURE you get the ones with the hollewed out middle - I got the 'skin' coloured gum rubber ones from microtools which are flat at each end and had to spend several hours on each to remove enough rubber that it wouldnt touch the front element on many of my lenses - I did this by lighting a section in the middle of the rubber on fire and letting it burn for 20 seconds then scraping the soft rubber out. NOT a nice process - extremely toxic.

I had to do the same thing, hollow out the middle of the rubber rings. Only I used a 4" grinder. Messy, but it took way less than 2 hours.

Anhy Methanol, C5350-500ml, Post Apple Scientific, 814-725-3330.

I wonder if this PEC-12, or even the Eclipse or E2 will do the same thing.

http://www.photosol.com/solutions.htm

The Eclipse or E2 are the only cleaning solutions that work on my Kaeseman polarizer. The rest of the lens cleaners, including Formula MC, just leave a lot of smudge.

I finally got my order in. Thought I'd post it here, with notes, in case it helps some one else just trying to figure this all out.


NOTES:

Spanner wrench: I decided to get the best. Heat-treated tips, 5 shapes, for safety & also for use with other things besides lenses. If I have to work on a large telephoto, I can just get the longer handles.

screwdrivers: For the JIS standard, I'm tpld that crosspoint is better than JIS. I ordered the handle & bits considered best by Micro Tools' owner. sizes 1.7 - 2.5 should do, but I got the 3.0 as well, just in case. The 2.0 is out of stock, so that's why it's not listed below.

For tiny flatblades, the best by far is the Starret set. Wiha is also good, but I ordered the Starret.


Helical grease: Hoo boy, what a subject. I ordered Nyogel #744 ( a medium-light damping grease) plus several types of high-end bicycle grease from another source.

Filter ring removers: Sure enough, the more expensive gum-rubber ones are NOT hollowed. How strange. I bought the cheaper, hollowed set.

I ordered 99% Alcohol, as that's hard to find locally, and should be good for a final rinse.

Tools not in stock, that might help:

25-135 DENT REMOVER (Hollowed-wood tapping kit.) (for fixing dents in curved parts)

TAP-135-50 Mini Tap and Die Set $26 (for the inevitable)

=============================

MY ORDER:

T-132-34567 Spanner Wrench Set, All 5 Blades $83.18


S555Z-6 Screwdriver Set, Slotted, Set Of 6 $60.00

XPT-HAN Screwdriver Handle, for XPT Blades (New Style) $6.95

XPT-1-7 1.7 X 40mm JIS/CrossPoint Screwdriver Blade $5.95

XPT-2-5 2.5 X 50mm JIS/CrossPoint Screwdriver Blade $5.25

XPT-3-0 3.0 X 50mm JIS/CrossPoint Screwdriver Blade $4.85


LRSET Lens Ring Tool Set $17.95



TWZ-799-00 Plastic Tweezer $1.10

TWZ-808-00 Screw Holding Tweezer $7.25


OPTI-KIT Optivisor w/Light Kit 2.5X at 8" $53.95

LP-1 Optiloupe Attachment (adds 2 1/2x power) $9.03


CF6-F Paint, Gloss Black 1 fluid ounce $8.95

CF3-F Paint, Flat Black 1 fluid ounce $8.95


288D Isopropyl Alcohol 99% (1 Pint Bottle) $7.95

744 Lubricant, Grease, Helical - 50 Gram Tube $20.95

Cableaddict wrote:
"Helical grease: Hoo boy, what a subject. I ordered Nyogel #744 ( a medium-light damping grease) plus several types of high-end bicycle grease from another source."

I have the Nyogel #744 for everything other than helicals. The magic lube is the #10, HG-10, very expensive but the best Japanese synthetic, for helical threads.

Jim, where ya' been !!!

Could you re-post this on my "Best Helical Grease?" thread?

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/810185/0#lastmessage

I have several follow-up questions, but it belongs there.

THANKS.