Ive been doing some macro photography as well as some nighttime shots and am looking to buy a cheap flash for my camera

i have a Rebel XSi (450D). i would get a ring flash for the macro stuff but they're all way too expensive plus i dont know how useful ring flashes are for non macro shooting. right now im getting by ok by packing a white paper plate and using it to reflect some light in front of my lens for macro work.

anyone have reccomendations for flashes, preferably in the $100 or less price range?

If you can live without through-the-lens flash metering, I recommend the Vivitar 285HV. I've used one since the '70s, and you can get the newest version for about $90.00 from B+H, Adorama, etc.

http://www.adorama.com/VV285HV.html

Also checkout the Sunpak line. You can get the very compact RD2000 for $75.

Be sure that the electric level is compatible with the camera if you are doing digital. People say that some will fry the circuitry. A Wein synch adapter is supposed to help prevent that.

B+h has lots of ETTL flashes for under 100. I didn't realize there would be so many.

The Vivitar 285HV and the 283 are both just fine for digital cameras...

Avi B wrote:
The Vivitar 285HV and the 283 are both just fine for digital cameras...



NO!

Many of the 283's are NOT ok for digital, get your FACTS right before you spout advice, it depends where and when they were made, some are over 600V

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

David

Avi B wrote: The Vivitar 285HV and the 283 are both just fine for digital cameras...

Not always; it depends on the year of manufacture.

Pre-2007 285HVs had sync voltages of, IIRC, 12 volts, and the early 283s were over 600 volts. Anything above 6 volts could be risky on some modern cameras.

Rusty-Tripod wrote:
Be sure that the electric level is compatible with the camera if you are doing digital. People say that some will fry the circuitry. A Wein synch adapter is supposed to help prevent that.

+1 on the Wein Safe Sync.

If you're not 100% sure that a flash is safe, it's good, cheap insurance.

http://www.weinproducts.com/safesyncs.htm

new Vivitars 285's and 283 are compatible... have been for a good number of years.

dhphoto wrote:
Avi B wrote:
The Vivitar 285HV and the 283 are both just fine for digital cameras...



NO!

Many of the 283's are NOT ok for digital, get your FACTS right before you spout advice, it depends where and when they were made, some are over 600V

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

David

having used both, the Sunpak 383 is way nicer than the Vivitar 285's.

for a lot of macro subjects, a single flash near your lens looks more natural than a ring flash... and it is pretty easy to use a 383 on a short PC cord with the camera on tripod.

I just bought a 283HV and it works fine on my 20D and 5D. AND it has ETTL.
Also it has a diffusor that comes with it and it is better than the Stofen.


Lynn

dhphoto wrote:
Avi B wrote:
The Vivitar 285HV and the 283 are both just fine for digital cameras...



NO!

Many of the 283's are NOT ok for digital, get your FACTS right before you spout advice, it depends where and when they were made, some are over 600V

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

David

Nice friendly lot today. There is a right way and a wrong way of correcting someone's post. You just demonstrated the wrong way.

The 380EX can usually be had for well under $100, and the 420EX can often be found for around that. Both would work fine.

chez wrote:
dhphoto wrote:
Avi B wrote:
The Vivitar 285HV and the 283 are both just fine for digital cameras...



NO!

Many of the 283's are NOT ok for digital, get your FACTS right before you spout advice, it depends where and when they were made, some are over 600V

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

David

Nice friendly lot today. There is a right way and a wrong way of correcting someone's post. You just demonstrated the wrong way.


Too much beer 'n watermelon makes ah man mean. Ah already hollered at several youngins 'n am fixin' ta belly kick ah hounddog...

Is this English ?

Too much beer 'n watermelon makes ah man mean. Ah already hollered at several youngins 'n am fixin' ta belly kick ah hounddog..

I'd like to correct some misinformation. I have serviced and repaired 283/285 many times since the late 1970's. Unfortunately the service manuals are not immediately accessible, but I do still have them. There were quite a few versions of the 283 made with changes to each of three main circuit boards, but nothing in the past >25 years uses direct high voltage to the synch contacts. The original version could have developed ~330 volts across the trigger terminals. Most DVMs will measure less than that because there is a voltage drop caused a high series resistor value (3.3meg?). The 600V reading reported was either a test artifact common with measurements of high impedance circuits, or perhaps the main capacitor was weak and parasitic oscillations were causing measurable spikes, etc. It not a normal static voltage at full charge. Later V283 models used a similar trigger circuit to the V285 in which the voltage was limited by a zener, usually 8.4V IIRC. AFAIK the V285 was electronic from the very beginning. However, I did not receive the very first version, so it is at least possible that some are not (I'd be willing to bet $$ against that though). I do still have one original (non-HV) V285 that has the low voltage synch circuit, so I know for sure that some of them did. Of course it is correct that the HV was low voltage.

A general note here is that voltage measurements should be made with the shortest possible leads to the device to reduce capacitance and static effects. Proper handling methods should be used when working with potential high voltages. Discharge the main flash capacitor with a 100-1000 ohm 10W resistor before proceeding to service the unit.

EBH

Hmm, the Bower SFD926C looks pretty good. $106 shipped if you use live.com cash back. Decent power, bounce/swivel, diffuser panel, E-TTL (not sure about support for E-TTL II), the woiks. Can't find any reviews yet, though.

chez wrote:

Nice friendly lot today. There is a right way and a wrong way of correcting someone's post. You just demonstrated the wrong way.


You do it your way and I'll do it mine but thanks SO much for the advice

I make no apologies at all for firmly correcting a potentially dangerous and incorrect post.

I have three Vivitar 283's and two of them develop more than 300V (that's as high as my voltmeter goes) so the person who blitheley suggested they were all safe was simply wrong. If you are going to offer advice you should check it first

David

thanks for the info ill have to do some research on the models mentioned. I was not aware of possible voltage issues with flashes ill also have to do somer resarch in that respect.

are there any issues with compatibilty for remote cords or reccomendations for a bracket system? ill need to figure something out to get the flash near the front of the camera when i want to do macro shots.

also has anyone tried the wireless triggers? while ebaying for the Sunpak 383 i see lots of fairly inixpensive wireless triggers wich would be nice for some things i could just hold the flash out with one hand and shoot with the other it would alsos ave some space when out hiking.

LynnP wrote: I just bought a 283HV and it works fine on my 20D and 5D. AND it has ETTL.

ETTL? I think you're confused.

There is an automatic mode on the HV, but it doesn't measure through the lens; it measures through the sensor on the front of the flash.

dhphoto wrote:
chez wrote:

Nice friendly lot today. There is a right way and a wrong way of correcting someone's post. You just demonstrated the wrong way.


You do it your way and I'll do it mine but thanks SO much for the advice

I make no apologies at all for firmly correcting a potentially dangerous and incorrect post.

I have three Vivitar 283's and two of them develop more than 300V (that's as high as my voltmeter goes) so the person who blitheley suggested they were all safe was simply wrong. If you are going to offer advice you should check it first

David

Dave, sometimes the direct approach that works very well with us Brits, ruffles the tender feathers of those in North America..

I know, I live and work here! But I agree with you, checking facts is always good prior to a post.

one very cool thing about the 285 HV is that you can take the sensor off the the flash unit if you buy the extra cord.



BrianO wrote:
LynnP wrote: I just bought a 283HV and it works fine on my 20D and 5D. AND it has ETTL.

ETTL? I think you're confused.

There is an automatic mode on the HV, but it doesn't measure through the lens; it measures through the sensor on the front of the flash.

mh2000 wrote: one very cool thing about the 285 HV is that you can take the sensor off the the flash unit if you buy the extra cord.

Yeah; I have the cord, and it's great for off-camera flash. The sensor pulls off the flash and goes on the cord, which then goes on the hot shoe. Then the flash can go on a bracket, into a softbox, whatever, and the sensor is still near the lens axis.

Cool for its day. Not as good as TTL metering, but the next best thing.