Post Your Set Up!
/forum/topic/780820/18

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MarkB1
Registered: Apr 07, 2009
Total Posts: 6850
Country: Australia

Do you use any diffusion on those two flash heads?

frans_vdm wrote:

Final high-speed setup with the Nikon D300 camera C1B9390 by fotoopa, on Flickr

Frans



frans_vdm
Registered: Jan 04, 2003
Total Posts: 295
Country: Belgium

I've tested with and witout diffusion on the 2 flashes. In full sun you need minimal 3 to 4 extra stops light on the flashes as you have to come above the sunlight. In cloudy weather or at night you have no longer these problems. So I can put a small diffuser on both flashes.

An other solution is the addition of a ring flash. I've done this a few days ago, here are the configuration:


High-speed setup with extra ringflash SB29s 1B9412 by fotoopa, on Flickr


High-speed setup with extra ringflash SB29s 1B9423 by fotoopa, on Flickr


High-speed setup with extra ringflash SB29s 1B9430 by fotoopa, on Flickr


High-speed setup with extra ringflash SB29s 1B9447 by fotoopa, on Flickr

The SB-29-s ringflash helps a lot for macro work. I drive this flash via the X and Q signals to control the flashpower from my central unit. This gives fare more possibilities and a much better exposure. Now the Nikon macro lens stay manual at F22, this prevent hosting in full sun due to the 4.5ms openings time of the external shutter. The shutter-lag is 3.5 ms.

I'm still waiting for higher temperature, last day we have snow again here in Belgium very exceptional for this period. There are no insects at the moment.

Frans.



MarkB1
Registered: Apr 07, 2009
Total Posts: 6850
Country: Australia

I don't see the value of a ring flash myself as it will tend to give circular highlights on reflective surfaces - which I find unattractive, though it's an easy third flash fix. And regarding the additional flash output in high ambient light; if you were to snoot the flash, or just aim it (limit the direction) through a short tube you would have less light loss to the environment and need less additional flash, and so save on the power requirements - according to my understanding.

frans_vdm wrote:
I've tested with and witout diffusion on the 2 flashes. In full sun you need minimal 3 to 4 extra stops light on the flashes as you have to come above the sunlight. In cloudy weather or at night you have no longer these problems. So I can put a small diffuser on both flashes.

An other solution is the addition of a ring flash. I've done this a few days ago, here are the configuration:

---

The SB-29-s ringflash helps a lot for macro work. I drive this flash via the X and Q signals to control the flashpower from my central unit. This gives fare more possibilities and a much better exposure. Now the Nikon macro lens stay manual at F22, this prevent hosting in full sun due to the 4.5ms openings time of the external shutter. The shutter-lag is 3.5 ms.

I'm still waiting for higher temperature, last day we have snow again here in Belgium very exceptional for this period. There are no insects at the moment.

Frans.


PS You could also wear a wide rimmed hat in the sunshine ...



frans_vdm
Registered: Jan 04, 2003
Total Posts: 295
Country: Belgium

Thanks MarkB1,

The ring flash helps me in taking pictures as the background is most of the time very dark due the need for supressing ambient light. It remains a task for perfect balance. I should really suppress the ambient otherwise I can not freeze the rapid movements. For more static shots you have not this problem. But additional reflections may indeed occur.

I have the unit right now adapted for 3D shooting with the Olympus E-PL3 camera, the 3D lumix G12.5 F12 lens with 1 mm extra spacers for closeup macro work:


Simple setup for 3D, picture C1B9489 by fotoopa, on Flickr


Simple setup for 3D, picture C1B9504 by fotoopa, on Flickr

A few examples of 3D cross-view pictures:


A swarm of mosquitoes Cross-view 3D picture P4114800 by fotoopa, on Flickr


Gehoornde Metselbij - Osmia cornuta Cross-view 3D picture P4114785 by fotoopa, on Flickr

I know that there are less 3D users. If you have a real 3D monitor there is certainly an added value for these images.

Frans.



Chris Anthony
Registered: Apr 23, 2005
Total Posts: 442
Country: United States

Finally built my diffuser, I will get some sample pics soon but here are some pics of the diffuser





Chris Anthony
Registered: Apr 23, 2005
Total Posts: 442
Country: United States

first couple of photos using the new setup. Can anyone ID this for me?




Robin Casady
Registered: Aug 22, 2005
Total Posts: 172
Country: United States

Recently built a macro rail for focus stacking. It is currently set up in manual mode (hand crank). I'm working on stepper motor control for it.

Cherry Macro Rail: The Movie



Early photo before I had trimmed the threaded rod:



It is made from cherry for its dimensional stability. This was a favored wood for 19th century view cameras. Crank wheel is cocobolo and crank handle is tulipwood. Tubular rails and threaded rod are stainless steel. Other fittings are stainless steel or brass. Camera block bushings are PTFE.

The brass nut used to drive the camera block is on a plate that can slide side-to-side. This allows for the threaded rod not being exactly straight. Without this the mechanism would have more resistance. You can see the movement in the movie.



one4teen
Registered: May 29, 2012
Total Posts: 34
Country: United States

Wonderful craftsmanship.



Kenj8246
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Total Posts: 12114
Country: United States

Beautiful woodworking craftsmanship, I agree.

Kenny



CMB Photo
Registered: Apr 03, 2010
Total Posts: 1183
Country: United States

BH should sell that...



Robin Casady
Registered: Aug 22, 2005
Total Posts: 172
Country: United States

Thanks very much. It was fun. Working on the stepper motor control, which is also turning out to be quite enjoyable.



Kell
Registered: Apr 10, 2012
Total Posts: 1687
Country: United States

holy crud, I just got a Nikon 105 2.8 with VR and was thinking dang, what a hassle, going to have to haul around a tripod most of the time.....



solete
Registered: Sep 08, 2005
Total Posts: 233
Country: Portugal

The beauty of the setups you see on this topis is that most pf us avoid tripods... you just need some pratice, that's it

Kell wrote:
holy crud, I just got a Nikon 105 2.8 with VR and was thinking dang, what a hassle, going to have to haul around a tripod most of the time.....



Sharks123
Registered: Jun 26, 2012
Total Posts: 1578
Country: Turkey

My new setup ;













Soryr for the bad photo quality

Sample shot ;

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1221722



chrisa62401
Registered: Aug 03, 2006
Total Posts: 62
Country: United States

My new setup. I've had it a few months, still trying to get the hang of it.















Sharks123
Registered: Jun 26, 2012
Total Posts: 1578
Country: Turkey

New Focus Stacking Setup;






















DesertDiesel
Registered: Mar 30, 2005
Total Posts: 99
Country: United States

Where do you buy the bracket that attaches to your tripod foot mount on the 300mm lens and attaches your flash?

TIA, Bob



Sharks123
Registered: Jun 26, 2012
Total Posts: 1578
Country: Turkey

DesertDiesel wrote:
Where do you buy the bracket that attaches to your tripod foot mount on the 300mm lens and attaches your flash?

TIA, Bob


Nikon D5000
Sigma 150mm Macro F/2.8 Macro
Kenko Auto Extension Tube
Reverse Nikon 50mm F/1.8D
Hakuba LH-1 Flash Bracket
Slik Mini III Pro Tripod
4 Way Macro Rail
Yonguo YN-560 III Flash



kajat
Registered: Mar 13, 2012
Total Posts: 39
Country: United Kingdom

Old set up using a 50mm f/1.8 AF on PN-11 / Kenko tubes with the SB-600 on a bracket and a DIY diffuser made from an old 'Flora' tub (other spreads are available . I cut the lid surface out and replaced with a cloth material.


P1010124 by Ken McN, on Flickr



P1010122 by Ken McN, on Flickr



kajat
Registered: Mar 13, 2012
Total Posts: 39
Country: United Kingdom

Started to try a new, lighter flash set up. Basically I've just replaced the SB-600 and bracket with the SB-400 mounted to the PN-11 tube using the same 492 mini ball head and Yongnuo flash lead as before.


P1010112 by Ken McN, on Flickr


And for natural light and/or greater working distances, I switch to the 105mm f/2.5 on any combination of the PN-11 and Kenko set.


P1010114 by Ken McN, on Flickr



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