I think the infinity focus is a result of the adaptors. Some have had to take them back and replace them because of this.

I can't comment on the Canon finders--I've used digital SLRs since 2000 LOL. BUT--I've used Voigtlander 35mm finder--and I will put the EVF up against it for the most part. Manual focus is just so easy--but it is visual, no confirmation. You will use your focus ring for critical focusing with a 5 or 10x zoom filling the EVF or LCD. The EVF will 'amp up' to keep the finder bright--and you will only find it darker in very low light. When I move from my 5D to the G1 I really miss the EVF--took just a bit to get used to it.

Exposure is done with stop-down metering--I set aperture with ap ring in A priority--most of us shoot in Aperture priority, set our ISO and it meters normally--with EV and a live histo. I also shoot occasionally in M, but generally in A. ISO can also be set to auto with a 'max' limit (I have mine set to max at ISO800 which works fine for me).

My understanding is that there are no in-camera corrections applied. I don't know how that could be accomplished with the 3rd party lenses--but others may correct me. Yes, I use LR 2.3 for all my files including the G1 with Panasonic lenses and FDs.

I can only comment on my adaptor--the Cameraquest/Rayqual. You may find more info at getdpi.com 4/3rds forum since it seems almost everyone there is using an adaptor of some sort--though many are M mounts, but there are lots more. They asll seem to be very similar--the CQ/Rayqual and Novoflex are the most expensive and probably maybe finished a bit better but I don't know that they work any better-esp. the ones corrected for infinity focus (though seems to me, thinking back, that was more with the M mount).

Think I covered everything. Feel free to ask if you have other questions. I pulled all the FD shots with the G1 into a little gallery for those that have asked about shooting with them.
http://www.pbase.com/picnic/fd_gallery

Diane

picnic wrote:

Exposure is done with stop-down metering--I set aperture with ap ring in A priority--most of us shoot in Aperture priority, set our ISO and it meters normally--with EV and a live histo.



Sorry, but my little monkey-mind doesn't follow.

My stop-down metering experience is limited to using my Pentax 67 or Canon F1 cameras with extension tubes or bellows. With the P67, I focus wide open, then move the stop-down control on the lens to the desired aperture, then meter and shoot. With the F1, it's the same operation, except the stop-down control is on the camera body.

When you "set aperture with ap ring in A priority" are you referring to the control ring on the top deck of the G1? And if so, what if any setting are you making on the FD aperture ring?

Thanks again. (And your gallery is lovely.)

Rob

Rob, there *never* is any manipulation of the raw files. The Panasonic lenses submits data about corrections the raw converter should do (Silkypix and ACR/Lightroom performs these, other converters do not) to the EXIF values. You can for example take an image using the kit lens, process it in Lightroom and then process it using RawTherapee to see the difference. The raw file itself is just as we are used to.

The irritating problem is that the corrections done by Silkypix and ACR/Lightroom just happens with no user choice available.

I use the kit lens very seldom as it is a bit slow for my taste. So, with adapters and a mix of good old lenses I am never affected by the automatic corrections. When using the kit lens the corrections are made but I haven't seen any ill effects from that.

Stop down metering is done as you described it: I set the camera to aperture priority, set the aperture ring on the lens to whatever I want it to be, focus and take the image. The camera will set the shutter time and I can use the front wheel for exposure compensation if I want to.

Focusing is usually best done wide open, then you can stop down. Or, as the EVF amps up the image, you can stop down and focus then. That is great when using a lens with focus shift and a world of difference to optical view finders.

kindest, /Jonas

Actually, miscommunication. Exposure is done totally without any stopping down, etc. (I was trying to convey that exposure is done stopped down--or not--by camera). You simply set the aperture on the lens aperture ring and the camera sets the shutter speed. Simple as that. I generally use auto ISO unless I have a particular reason to set my own.

Jonas seems to like to focus wide open--which works fine too, but I have had no problems focusing with the aperture set to whatever I want. I tend to shoot a lot wide open but if I stop down I still do that first, then I manual focus with the MF assist and shoot. It all sounds way more complicated than it is but it couldn't be easier (well, maybe a tad if they had it set up for one button MF assist instead of a 2 button--you need to use the right button of the 4 way to bring up the MF assist and you can move the focus square to where you want to place the focus--then you click on the OK/middle button and it brings up the zoom--you can adjust it to 5x or 10x by using the front dial--someone on another forum says he does this as he is bringing it up to his eye and is ready to focus immediately).

I'll say--I didn't quite 'get it' until I got my adaptor and tried it for myself. I was so excited about using MF lenses I bought some more. LOL--and actually, if I can find the right lens, will probably buy some others--not necessarly FD.

Diane


R. Bowman wrote:
picnic wrote:

Exposure is done with stop-down metering--I set aperture with ap ring in A priority--most of us shoot in Aperture priority, set our ISO and it meters normally--with EV and a live histo.



Sorry, but my little monkey-mind doesn't follow.

My stop-down metering experience is limited to using my Pentax 67 or Canon F1 cameras with extension tubes or bellows. With the P67, I focus wide open, then move the stop-down control on the lens to the desired aperture, then meter and shoot. With the F1, it's the same operation, except the stop-down control is on the camera body.

When you "set aperture with ap ring in A priority" are you referring to the control ring on the top deck of the G1? And if so, what if any setting are you making on the FD aperture ring?

Thanks again. (And your gallery is lovely.)

Rob

picnic wrote:
(...)
Jonas seems to like to focus wide open--which works fine too, but I have had no problems focusing with the aperture set to whatever I want. I tend to shoot a lot wide open but if I stop down I still do that first, then I manual focus with the MF assist and shoot.

Hi Diane,

Yes, I usually focus wide open, or nearly wide open. That's probably as I stop the lens down only when I see I need more DOF. Old habits, combined with the experience from my earlier Olympus 4/3 cameras; I always got more DOF than expected as I was used to larger sensors...

But you are right, it is as easy to focus with the lens stopped down and then you are immediately ready to shoot. In the end one can do it all in any order.

One of the great things with the EVF is that we see the image including the final DOF in the viewfinder all the time. I have now sold my 5D thinking I would save for a 5DMkII - but I'm not sure about that any more. For the moment I have that idea on hold and stick to the G1. There are workarounds when I need the best possible image quality,

Here is my current lens setup:

Wide: ZD9-18/4-5.6 (arrives in a couple of days, will be in the bag all the time)
Normal: Hexanon UC 28/1.8 (on the camera most of the time)
Short tele: Olympus OM50/2Macro (in the bag all the time)
Medium tele: Cosina Voigtländer 75/2.5 Color Heliar (seldom used)
"Long" tele/Macro: Olympus OM90/2Macro (seldom used)

The Canon FD 24/2 and the kit lens don't see any use. Both are totally OK but I like the lenses mentioned above better for a mix of reasons. I use tele lenses very seldom but when in need the CV75/2.5 is an excellent option and so is the OM90/2.

Rumors are rumors but knowing the Panasonic prices in general made me decide for the ZD9-18. I'm looking forward to the G20/1.7 but I'm not at all convinced it will perform good enough. I really hope it will as that would be good for the µ4/3 system and a smaller, wider and light weight option to the Hexanon 28/1.8. But as you see, I don't really count on it ftm.

Well, that was the status report of the day, lol. Regards, /Jonas

Thanks, Jonas and Diane, I've purchased the CameraQuest adapter, and will try to get the G1 tomorrow at a reasonable price. If my images are to my liking, I will post them.

Cheers,

Rob

Diane
I am thinking of getting a G-1
I now use a 50mm nikkor on my D300 for portraits
what lens would you recommend for the G-1 I like to shoot wide open and I also shoot inside bars and coffee shops in spain, this with low light and no flash, so I need a fast and sharp lens.
thanks
raul

One of the better low light lens for the G1 is the Panasonic/Leica 25 mm f1.4 Summilux ASPH D. Very sharp at wide open. That's what I carry when I shoot in a bar. Unfortunately the lens is fairly expensive and is big and heavy compare to the G1 body.

I also use the Canon FD 50 mm f1.2 manual focus. It is not as good wide open but sharpen up real nicely by f2.0. Unfortunately the Canon 50 is even more heavy than the Panasonic 25.

A third option I found is the Nikkor 35 mm f1.4 AIS. It is a pretty nice compromise in size, weight and image quality.

Of course if money is no object then there is the Leica 50 mm f1.0 M mount and the Canon 50 mm f0.95.

The G1 is a wonderful camera and the exciting part is that it can take a lot of different lenses. However the G1 is not a very good low light camera. It is respectable up to ISO 400. By the time you hit ISO 800 you will see a lot of noise.

I think your D300 with a Nikkor 50 mm f1.2 AIS or the Nikkor 58 mm f1.2 Noct is a better choice for no flash low light bar scene.

Thank you Hansen
Can you tell me if the Camera Quest adapter works with Takumar M40 lenses and Canon FD lenses?
and how is the Super Takumar 50mm f1.4 vs the Canon 50mm f1.4 or f1.8
I am looking for small lenses and F1.4 is ok for what I do.
Thanks again

The Camera Quest FD to Micro 4/3 adapter will fit the Canon FD lens to the G1. I don't think Camera Quest makes a Pentax M42 to the G1 adapter yet. I know they make a Leica M to G1 adapter. I have the M42 to G1 adapter from Rong Jin or RJ camera on eBay.

Personally I don't like my Super Tak 50 mm f1.4 all that much at wide open. I only played with the Canon 50 f1.4 and f1.8 with EOS mount and they are very good. I can't speak for the older manual focus Canon FD 50 mm f1.4 or f1.8. Although I would assume they are very good.

If f1.4 is good enough for what you do there are a lot of great choices including the Canon, Nikon, Carl Zeiss, Voigtlander, Leica, Pentax SMC-A, Minolta Rokkor, etc. It seems like every manufacturer managed to put out a great 50 mm f1.4 lens some where along their manufacturing history.

You do have to realize that a 50 mm lens on the G1 will give you an image that look like it was taken with a 100 mm lens on a 35 mm film camera . In the space of a bar you will only fit a person's head and shoulder and not much more in the frame.

If you have the CQ FD mount adaptor you can use all FD lenses, and if you get the correct Canon Mount Adaptor (IIRC it's the T) you will be able to also use most M42 lenses with the two adaptors stacked.

Hansen covered your questions quite well. Do remember what he's said about FOV--the 50 will be like 100mm. I have the old FD 50 f/1.8--quite nice and very light/small. I added the 24 f/2.8 for a FOV closer to standard or 45-50 and also the 35 f/2.8.

There are a lot of lenses in the 50 f/1.4 range, but be sure that's what you really need. You might want to do a bit of research on the Panasonic/leica 24 f/1.4. People are lovoing it on the G1. If you search on dpreview for Vittorio Fracassi you will find a good sampling from that lens and it will give you a better idea of something in the 25 range that will likely suit your needs better.

He's probably right also that you may fare better with your NIkon for bar shooting. I shoot mainly with a 5D---and I don't mind the G1 up to ISO800 for a very well exposed (to the right) shot and shot in RAW. But in very dark circumstances--esp. if you are thinking of MF--the Nikon may be the better choice.

Diane

Thank you Diane
To use my Nikkor lenses on the G1 what kind of adapter would I need?
This is getting exiting....
I do most of my shooting from the waist, but people do hear the mirror and shatter
But with the G-1 there is no mirror....

I check with B&H and nobody has the G-1 black in stock...!

I am not aware of a Nikkor adapter yet available, I use the CameraQuest FD mount stacked with a Nikon F to FD adapter (made by Canon) stacked together. I just modified one of my other Nikon F to FD adapters so I can use the Nikon G lens also and control the aperture setting.

I have put together a site with pictures I have taken with the G1. Some you've seen others are new. I have also modified one of my Nikon to FD adapters so I can change the aperture on the Nikon G lens.

Lens represented

Canon FD 7.5,20-35L,24L,50L,80-200L,100 F4 macro,150-600L,400 F4.5
Nikon 14-24, Nikon 28mm F1.4
Zeiss ZF 25mm
Leica 180mm F2.8

http://www.robert-chisholm.com/Panasonic/index.htm

This is the most up to date adaptor list I know of. It will tell you what single adaptors are out there, what ones have to be stacked and has links to the mfgs.
http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dx428wg_10fdvsmtd7

Diane

Adapting Nikkor lens is pretty easy. Just use a adapter to mate the Nikkor lens to an Olympus/Panasonic 4/3 mount. Then use the Panasonic 4/3 lens to micro 4/3 body mount. If you wait a mont or so you will probably find 2 to 3 adapters that will take a Nikkor lens directly to the micro 4/3 mount. Novoflex, Rong Jin, Ciecio7 and Camera Quest are all slated to be making Nikkor to micro 4/3 mounts.

As far as the G1 shutter noise, you will be surprised how loud that sucker can get. There is no mirror but they did not get rid of the noise. I turned off all the beeps on mine and the shutter still makes a loud noise.

HansenTsang wrote:

As far as the G1 shutter noise, you will be surprised how loud that sucker can get. There is no mirror but they did not get rid of the noise. I turned off all the beeps on mine and the shutter still makes a loud noise.

The shutter essentially fires twice, making it noisy. It has to close, fire normally then open again. And without the mirror noise to cover it you will notice. I wouldn't call it loud (it's reasonably quiet compared to many similar DSLR's, much quieter than say an A900) but don't expect Leica M noiselevels.

Yes and the vibration level from the shutter is also a lot lower than the DSLR.