Nick,

I use JB Weld in these situations.

If it is glued on, how does one carry out cleaning or repairs afterward?

One doesn't. One buys another $14 Rokkor 45/2.

The Rokkor 28mm f2.5 SI is one of the best 28mm lenses I have tried and I can confirm there were no mirror issues on the Canon full frame 1-series. I am guessing - from the looks of it the 45mm f2.0 won't pose any issues either.

Ahhhh....I see...ok....good point.

Although there is an investment of time (a lot of sanding going on there) that is lost too for perhaps a very simple fix. I guess drilling and countersinking holes takes time too.

Anyway, thanks for the info Paul. I thought perhaps I was missing some type of ingenious way (I have developed one I have been planning to try) of using a hidden method of securing the adapter and back assembly.

Cableaddict wrote:
In general, are there no mirror issues with MD lenses and a 5D?

Beware of the Minolta 35/1.8s. They need about as much clearance as the Rokkor 58/1.2.

The Minolta 28/2.0 with a rear element treatment will clear a stock 5D mirror.

Cableaddict wrote:
One thing puzzles me, though: You remove the aperture mechanism, and never replace it? How does that work? Is that mechanism only there for when the (Minolta) camera does auto stop-down?

Also: Any mirror issues? (I use a 5D, so this is always a concern)

thanks

Cableaddict,
Yes, the aperture mechanism needs to be put back. I had this done in step 16, 17. Perhaps you missed those steps ?
I can also confirm that others have said that I have no mirror issue with either 5D or 5D MKII.
About MD, MC I don't think they are relevant to mirror clearance. However, all the rokkors with focal length above 58mm I have seen don't have mirror clearance issue. Their rear element is so deep inside even at infinity. I remember someone (Jim?) has also mentioned this in another thread.

pengland wrote:
How is the adapter attached to the reduced back in this conversion?
Pengland,
Perhaps the best way is to drill/countersink holes. Being a little lazy, I used superglue. Should have used epoxy but didn't have any at the time. With superglue, it's pretty easy to take the adapter out. Drop a few acetone drops around the contact points and use a flat-head screw to force the adapter out, one point at a time.

Thanks, debuggerus

Good to know about longer FL's. That's what I suspected, based on the Leica-to-EOS problems.

BTW- Be aware that superglue doesn't last forever. It is also very susceptible to heat & humidity. If I were you, I'd remove it and re-do with screws or epoxy. (JB Weld is indeed great stuff for metal-to-metal)