I just opened and played with my ELinchrome D Lite 4 kit. I am quite pleased with it. I am using a Canon 10D.

I think that they may be too powerful. I have heard of ND gels that can be used with studio lights. Can these be used in conjunction with soft boxes, and if so, how would that be done?

Can someone please post a link to a ND gel / filter so I can see the price, and what they look like.

Thank you.

super marvin,

What are your camera and light settings and set up? Something sounds amiss.

You should be able to dial a 400ws strobe down to get a decent exposure with normal flash settings using typical modifiers in a small home studio environment.

Too much light is often a problem in small studio setups, but this is usually due more to light control than to light output, unless you are trying to shoot shallow DOF with something like f1.4 -2.8.

ND filters or gels are easy to find from manufacturers like Rosco or Lee. Google or check with your favorite camera shop. They will reduce your output but they won't solve more common light control issues.

Good luck.

Carmen Miranda wrote:
super marvin,

What are your camera and light settings and set up? Something sounds amiss.

You should be able to dial a 400ws strobe down to get a decent exposure with normal flash settings using typical modifiers in a small home studio environment.

Too much light is often a problem in small studio setups, but this is usually due more to light control than to light output, unless you are trying to shoot shallow DOF with something like f1.4 -2.8.

ND filters or gels are easy to find from manufacturers like Rosco or Lee. Google or check with your favorite camera shop. They will reduce your output but they won't solve more common light control issues.

Good luck.




x2 to that. I have the Dlite 4 kit. and I'm able to shoot iso 100 @ f/5.6 @ the lowest setting with the softbox that comes in the kit



or, if I want to go with an even more shallow DOF, I just use the modeling lamps.

I shot this using the modeling lamps @ ISO 400 f/2.8 1/50th sec

There are two things that come to my mind. The first problem people usually have is they don't shoot Manual. If you're shooting in P, Av, Tv, or any other mode you are going to end up with overexposed images as soon as the flash goes off. Set your ISO at 100, or as low as it will go. Set your camera at 1/125s and f8. Adjust your aperture from there if the image is too light or dark.
The second thing that comes to mind is bare reflectors. If you're shooting with just a reflector and no modifier than it probably will be too powerful.

Thank you to everyone so far....

I don't have the settings in front of me, but if I recall, the lights were as low as I could set them, I think their setting was 2.0 on the D Lites.

I was shooting in manual firing the lights with a Cactus wireless system. I was at ISO 100 for sure, and around 1/180 and about f/11. The lights were "about" 5 feet from the subject.

I am looking forward to your replies again!

Thanks

supermarvin76 wrote:
.... if I recall, the lights were as low as I could set them, I think their setting was 2.0 on the D Lites.

I was shooting in manual firing the lights with a Cactus wireless system. I was at ISO 100 for sure, and around 1/180 and about f/11. The lights were "about" 5 feet from the subject.


With lights 5' from subject and power level at min. 2.0 you should be getting somewhere in the neighbor of:
f4 with 1 light (single diffused SB)
f5.6 with 2 lights (single diffused SB)

Either you are using 2 bare bulbs with standard reflectors aimed directly at your subject or you are using another on camera flash along with your strobes to get f11.

Remember, modeling lights and flash tubes share the same readout, so be sure you are reducing the power level not just the modeling light. One way to insure this is to keep the modeling light in the proportional mode.

In any case, if you are using direct reflectors forget the ND and add some Rosco diffusion material or a fabric scrim. If you are using softboxes try an additional diffusion panel. If you are using umbrellas turn them to reflect not shoot thru. And nothing says you have to aim your modifiers directly at the subject. As long as the direct light aimed away from the subject does not cause you other problems (spill, flare, loss of contrast), "feathering" the light will allow some further adjustment (reduction) of light level.

There are a lot of ways to pimp a ride.

Good luck.

May I be so bold as to suggest that you invest in a quality flash meter and then learn how to use it? The Elinchrom monolights have a 5 stop exposure range from 25-400 w/s in 1/10 of a stop intervals which gives you a great deal of flexibility in your exposure settings. You will have to set your camera to manual exposure and dial in your own f-stop , shutter speed and ISO sensitivity for the best success. You will now be in a position to control your lighting rather than react to what the camera does internally for you by going to manual exposure and using a light meter.

Carmen Miranda wrote:
supermarvin76 wrote:
.... if I recall, the lights were as low as I could set them, I think their setting was 2.0 on the D Lites.

I was shooting in manual firing the lights with a Cactus wireless system. I was at ISO 100 for sure, and around 1/180 and about f/11. The lights were "about" 5 feet from the subject.




Either you are using 2 bare bulbs with standard reflectors aimed directly at your subject or you are using another on camera flash along with your strobes to get f11.

Remember, modeling lights and flash tubes share the same readout, so be sure you are reducing the power level not just the modeling light. One way to insure this is to keep the modeling light in the proportional mode.


Good luck.


I was shooting with softboxes attached. I also had the modeling lamps on the whole time. Will that affect my exposure at all?

What setting do I set the modeling lamps to to set them in proportianal mode?

I really have no idea what I was doing to get f/11 - f/16.

I realize I should have a flashmeter, but I am trying to make do with what I have now until further funding comes in,

Thanks again everyone...

Modeling lights will not affect your flash exposure.

Check out your manual to set modeling lights to proportional, but basically you have three options, OFF, PROPORTIONAL, INDEPENDENT. Try switching between them to see the difference.

An important general concept to learn and understand (especially in lighting, although it affects many things, in many ways) is the Inverse Square Law.
It states that light power either increases or decreases exponentially as the distance of the light to your subject decreases or increases respectively. "About 5 feet" could be 4' or it could be 6', in either case there would be a substantial difference in exposure. If you double your distance you get 1/4th the amount of light, if you decrease the distance by half you quadruple the amount, that is a 2 stop difference, which is huge.
It's possible your lights are closer than you think. If you are really up against it, than pulling your lights back a bit will help. Bouncing light effectively does the same thing by increasing the distance the light has to travel.
There are consequences to every action but at least light is VERY predictable, so with time and effort you'll find different ways to handle your situation, some better than others for a desired result.

A flash meter is indeed an invaluble tool. There are other ways to work around it until you get one though. Check out Chuck Gardners tutorials while your saving your sheckels. Also pick up the book Light, Science and Magic, a tad dry but a good investment and an invaluble resource on the basics of lighting.

Good luck.