I find this discussion rather interesting. I was expecting to see a bunch of replies stating, "Don't need one! You have a histogram! etc". I use my light meter to help me better understand what the lights are doing and how they interact. That is something that can be difficult with a histogram on the back of the camera.

Thanks for letting me know that I am not crazy (or old fashioned) for using one!
Cheers, BLR

All the time!

I got to the point that I didn't need a meter when in the studio and could trust the meter in camera for location work. I use the LCD/Histogram the same way I used Polaroids.
The meter is a good starting point but I don't believe it 100% usually did some tweaking or pushin/pulling at the lab. That said I just bought a 50mm Planar to use on my 5D so I'll be using a handheld meter again, I'll see if there is a marked difference.

I've missed that white towel.

I use mine about 50% of the time. It's invaluable for setting lighting ratios and power adjustments on my strobes. I'll use the meter in the camera when it's run and gun time.

Every time I break out the lights. Love that L358 PW trigger.

The built-in reflected-light meter in a camera is very convenient to use, but it is unreliable as it is easily fooled. Incident-light meters on the other hand are very reliable/predictable and accurate. 'nuff said. I have a Gossen Luna Star F2 that is very user-friendly and I love it.

Yes and no. By feel and memory I can guestimate roughly what I need my lights to be dialled at. However, I generally need a handful of test shots to get it it bang on. Using the meter calibrated to my Canons I'm generally 90% there by the first test shot, perhaps only needing a single nudge to be spot on.

That said, shooting tethered sometimes I've set the aperture I need and then just think in terms of a bit more or less light rather than ratios and f-numbers.

You are basically saying that the camera's meter IS unreliable. You are using your experience and knowledge about light metering to compensate for the camera meter's shortcoming. This method requires some skill, time and patience, and it's still not as accurate/reliable as a reading from an incident light meter. I do that too i.e. I don't use an incident light meter outdoors. I use a handheld meter only in the studio with strobe lighting.

ShutterLover wrote:
Yes and no. By feel and memory I can guestimate roughly what I need my lights to be dialled at. However, I generally need a handful of test shots to get it it bang on. Using the meter calibrated to my Canons I'm generally 90% there by the first test shot, perhaps only needing a single nudge to be spot on.

That said, shooting tethered sometimes I've set the aperture I need and then just think in terms of a bit more or less light rather than ratios and f-numbers.

All the time!

What happened to your Baby Doogs avatar?

I use mine every time I use flash in my small studio. I have two L-358's. I put one in my bag intending to use it in incident mode and compare it to my meter readings in the camera when shooting outdoors in natural light. But, of course, I get caught up in what I'm shooting and forget to do the comparison.

Most of the time I don't use a meter as I shoot tethered and use the "real" histogram that C1 Pro gives me for the capture. I'm not at all interested in ratios - just what the image looks like!

Andy

Hello, I use my Sekonic L-358 all the time. I'm not yet a very experienced photographer and find it invaluable when trying out new lighting techniques. Using the light meter allows me to concentrate on the placement of light and saves time adjusting the power level on the flash.


Bigbear.

On the topic of light meters, what would everyone recommend for someone getting started in studio photography? I've always just chimped and used my histograms before, but a light meter seems like it might be a useful thing indeed. It seems like everyone mentions the L-358. Are there any less expensive choices? I'd hate to drop the money if I wind up not using it very often.

I think the Polaris SPD 100 is a really great meter for the money. Simple interface, big digital readout and accurate. My go to meter is a higher end Gossen, but I keep the Polaris around as back up and for others to use. It has held up very well.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?ci=0&shs=polaris+spd+100&sb=ps&pn=1&sq=desc&InitialSearch=yes&O=jsp%2FRootPage.jsp&A=search&Q=*&bhs=t&Go.x=0&Go.y=0&Go=submit

I use my meter all the time. It's especially handy shooting on location.

love to use mine

Interesting article in the November issue of Studio Photography, It was basically talking about using the histogram or light meter. My impression of the article can be summed up by this base ball analogy. A histogram can get you on first, a flash meter gets you a home run. Article can be read here, the article is entitled its all about accuracy.



Studio Photography

I could not get the link to go directly to the article

Not sure!