OK, not a Canon bash thread by any stretch (I have the 5D, 1D2 + 4 L's)

WHY, oh WHY can't my $4000 1D2 or $3000 5D sync at 1/4000 to my AB heads

Actually, my friend's D70 can sync up to 1/8000.

And don't tell me to reduce power of the AB or some trick that will barely let light in. The D70 does it easily with the PC cord.

Am I missing something? Thanks!

Here is a shot @ 1/4000

Why? Electronic shutters as opposed to mechanical ones.

CCD-based sensors instead of CMOS-based sensors.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2008/01/control-your-world-with-ultra-high-sync.html

Yeah, I knew this, but I really like doing high-speed and day-to-night. It is just so frustrating that I cannot do this with my Canons!

Thanks for the link, very informative.

greg

cool pic

Ariel Bravy wrote:
Why? Electronic shutters as opposed to mechanical ones.

CCD-based sensors instead of CMOS-based sensors.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2008/01/control-your-world-with-ultra-high-sync.html

quite an interesting read. looks like the old 1D will work on the canon side.

For that exact reason, I always throw an NSync LP onto the turntable hen I shoot with flash! ( NSync's music, ironically and thankfully, makes up only about 1/8000th of my collection)

Ian.Dobinson wrote:
looks like the old 1D will work on the canon side.

Yes and no.

Just did a test with my 1D and 580ex in the hotshoe with the TTL pins taped with gaffer tape..

ISO 200, f4, syncs all the way up to 1/2500 reliably.
1/3200, sometimes looks normal, sometimes dark by about a stop
1/4000, black frame

The flash power could be set at anything on manual and work fine. ISO 200, f4 was giving me a flash power of 1/128, the weakest setting on my 580ex.

Once I cranked it up to 1/4000 or faster, all the way up to 1/16000, it took ISO 3200 and a full flash pop to get a proper exposure. However, the entire scene was magenta.

Here's a shot I took about a year and a half back showing this effect.



ISO 200, f2.8, 1/16000.

(The flash was closer to the subject in this image than the ones I just shot so I could get away with a lower ISO.)

Once you cross the critical threshold of 1/4000, you need a flash pop that's a full 11 stops brighter to get the proper exposure, or 2000 times as much light.

So to sum it all down to something useful, the 1D syncs reliably with a neutered flash at up to 1/2500.

Ariel...........

Mind telling me exactly which are the TTL pins that you taped? I'd like to try taping them on some of my cameras to see what I can come up with. Are they actually all of the pins other than the largest round one?

Thanks,

Harvey

You can also use a complete dark room (except a safe light, perhaps).

Open the shutter for say, 15 seconds! (or even less if you can complete the act -- i.e. spilling waterfall of milk -- within a shorter time frame). Absolutely nothing will record until you pop the flash (or flashes) which as you say, could be as short a duration as 1/4000 of a second, or even less. Anyone got such a sample image?

Harvey, correct.

EOSMIKE wrote:
You can also use a complete dark room (except a safe light, perhaps).

Open the shutter for say, 15 seconds! (or even less if you can complete the act -- i.e. spilling waterfall of milk -- within a shorter time frame). Absolutely nothing will record until you pop the flash (or flashes) which as you say, could be as short a duration as 1/4000 of a second, or even less. Anyone got such a sample image?

Ask and you shall receive

sweet!