Some nice R glass over on the bay. Can't say I don't know the seller

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZguymancuso

EricH wrote:
I missed the discussion about firmware in the old DMR Bibble post. Can somebody fill me in on version 1.2? Should I use it or stay with 1.1?
Thanks,
Eric


v1.2 allows to use 4GB SD cards, but the success rate is not 100%. I can't use more than 2GB of a 4GB on my Transcend 150X cards, whereas other people have had no problems using 4GB cards.

The LCD display is a few hundred degrees hotter in v1.2 than what the RAW shows, and the colors are way too saturated. The overexposure warning comes in way too early. This was the biggest problem I had with v1.2.

It didn't really fix some bugs that it was supposed to fix, such as AWB changing during rapid succession of exposures.

The overall impression was that it wasn't worth "upgrading" to v1.2 unless you really needed to use 4GB cards and only if your card worked in the DMR with v1.2.

EricH wrote:
When I posted about firmware above, I also meant to ask if any of you had seen this strange artifact that I am seeing with my DMR. It sometimes will change the color and size of objects that have fine lines such as telephone wires and things. See the example here that has some arrows pointing to the problem. I've not been able to exactly isolate when my camera does this but it certainly is not happening all the time. The sky in this image is foggy - when it is clear I don't get the problem. Anyone seen this before?



That's not a problem with the firmware or sensor. Actually, it is a problem with the sensor not being a perfect sensor, where it can handle all of dynamic range without problems. The contrast of backlit dark cable with the surrounding is just too high for the sensor to handle, when the sky is so overexposed. The extreme brightness of the adjacent photowells just spills into the photowells exposing the cable.

Peter

Peter,
Thanks for the information regarding both of my questions.
Eric

For those who have had a problem with the DMR overexposing shots (ranging from slightly over-exposed to 6 or 7 stops of over exposure), I think I have found the cause - the DMR sometimes won't drive the aperture in the lens to the required degree of closure. This can be caused by a lens whose shutter/aperture blades need new oil or by a weak battery.

I recently bought a Leica lens which I don't think had been used for quite some time, and the lens would over-expose in various amounts. In desperation, I tried setting the camera to aperture priority and setting the lens aperture to max open (f/2.8), so that the camera did not need to stop down the lens to take the photo. Voila - the over-exposure problem disappeared. I then tried charging the battery and using the "program" setting (so now the camera was forced to stop down the lens). Again, the problem disappeared. I think the lens just needs a CLA.

Further support for my theory lies in the fact that it's a big lens - 35-70 f/2.8, so the aperture leaves require a lot of push from the camera to set them. I have also noticed the problem with a few other lenses at start-up which then disappears. I think this is due to the fact that the lens is "stiff", and it loosens up after a few shots. Again, a CLA is indicated.

Any thoughts?

Ted,

I have had this problem with the 35-70/2.8. It's the diaphragm, and it needs to be repaired. I've heard of this problem with other 35-70/2.8 lenses.

I have a work-around for this. Try this:

Go into the macro mode and come out of it. Then set the aperture as you would like and take a picture in the aperture-priority mode. That may fix the problem temporarily.

Peter

Ted and Peter,
That's very interesting you would both post about the 35-70 f/2.8 and over exposure. I just experienced this recently with that lens - one that I am considering buying. I'll keep the work around in mind but will also test for the condition. Besides using a weak battery and small apertures in A mode, any other ways to test for a sticky diaphram?
Thanks,
Eric

The problem may or may not have any relation to the battery charge. I do believe I've tried the lens with a fully charged battery with the same problem occuring. Here is an extract from the letter I sent to Leica with the lens:

Please find enclosed the above-named lens. The diaphragm was repaired and returned to me in late July, 2006. The previous repair number was V5xxxx. Initially the diaphragm worked well, but it still gets stuck wide open. The problem is intermittent, but it occurs reproducibly.

When I stop down to take a picture, then open up the diaphragm for a shot, then stop down again, the diaphragm gets stuck in the open position. This happens especially when the zoom is at the 70mm position. I can free it up by turning the zoom all the way to the macro position then turn it back to 35mm position. But this only works until I stop down and open up the diaphragm again. Is the zoom ring involved? Perhaps that’s why I feel some friction (like there’s sand in it) when I turn the zoom ring.

I think the best way to test for this problem is to use the A mode and repeatedly take pictures at 70mm focal length going from wide open to f/8 or f/11 and back and forth. You should definitely see a 3 or 4-stop difference if there is a problem.

Peter

Peter- No offense intended, but the work-around is not a great solution - too much screwing around while the shot disappears.

What troubles me is that you have asked Leica to fix it, and it turned out that the fix was only temporary. I was about to send mine back to New Jersey, but now I'm wondering . . . . Can you let us know what they say on the second go around, i.e., why the first fix didn't work? And why they think the second fix is a real fix?

Also, I would be interested to know the turn-around time and the cost for the CLA, assuming that's what you did the first time.

Many thanks.

Ted,

I didn't mean the work-around to be a permanent solution. It's a temporary solution until you can afford to send the lens in and be without it for a few MONTHS!

I sent it to NJ for repair in March. They logged it in on 3/17/06. It was sent to Germany. There, they did a "complete check, clean elements, repair diaghragm, adjust all parts." NJ shipped it back to me on 7/21/06. That's over 4 MONTHS!

I sent it back to NJ on 9/9/06. It went to Germany again on 10/11/06. That's over a month to get it to Germany! Repair was finished on 10/28/06, and NJ shipped it back to me on 11/13/06, 2 weeks after Germany finished work on it.

The second fix seems to have done the trick. The repair cost was $476.25. The second one was under warranty.

I think you would be much better off to send it directly to Solms.

Peter

Peter-

Thanks for the tip.

BTW, I'm not very far from you at the moment - I'm in the Coachella valley.

Ted

You're welcome, Ted.

It's a small world. I just sent my son off on a class trip today. They're going to a weekend camp in Idyllwild, on the other side of San Jacinto Mountain from you. Look out for a bunch of wild 5th graders!

PSquared63 wrote:
The problem may or may not have any relation to the battery charge. I do believe I've tried the lens with a fully charged battery with the same problem occuring. Here is an extract from the letter I sent to Leica with the lens:

Please find enclosed the above-named lens. The diaphragm was repaired and returned to me in late July, 2006. The previous repair number was V5xxxx. Initially the diaphragm worked well, but it still gets stuck wide open. The problem is intermittent, but it occurs reproducibly.

When I stop down to take a picture, then open up the diaphragm for a shot, then stop down again, the diaphragm gets stuck in the open position. This happens especially when the zoom is at the 70mm position. I can free it up by turning the zoom all the way to the macro position then turn it back to 35mm position. But this only works until I stop down and open up the diaphragm again. Is the zoom ring involved? Perhaps that’s why I feel some friction (like there’s sand in it) when I turn the zoom ring.



I think the best way to test for this problem is to use the A mode and repeatedly take pictures at 70mm focal length going from wide open to f/8 or f/11 and back and forth. You should definitely see a 3 or 4-stop difference if there is a problem.

Peter



I also have the 35-70 Elmarit and have experienced the diaphragm issues that others have talked about. I sent it back to Solms who replaced the aperture ring and the zoom control. Total cost was a whopping $1185 but at least this wonderful lens is now working perfectly.

It is striking that there have been so many reported problems from a lens which had such a small production. Perhaps the real reason why Leica stopped producing this lens was not only its cost but the difficulty of manufacture. But in the end my feeling is that this lens has no peer in the Leica lineup so it is worth it to send to Solms if necessary and end up with a near perfect copy. You'll never be sorry. My kit now consists of the 19, 28, 35-70, 70-180 and the 280 4.0 Throw in an apo extender 1.4 and there is virtually nothing you can't do. Perhaps a 100 macro if shooting very close is your desire.

Woody

woodyspedden wrote:
I also have the 35-70 Elmarit and have experienced the diaphragm issues that others have talked about. I sent it back to Solms who replaced the aperture ring and the zoom control. Total cost was a whopping $1185 but at least this wonderful lens is now working perfectly.

It is striking that there have been so many reported problems from a lens which had such a small production. Perhaps the real reason why Leica stopped producing this lens was not only its cost but the difficulty of manufacture. But in the end my feeling is that this lens has no peer in the Leica lineup so it is worth it to send to Solms if necessary and end up with a near perfect copy. You'll never be sorry. My kit now consists of the 19, 28, 35-70, 70-180 and the 280 4.0 Throw in an apo extender 1.4 and there is virtually nothing you can't do. Perhaps a 100 macro if shooting very close is your desire.

Woody


My sentiments exactly re: 35-70/2.8. Don't forget, it's a great macro lens, too! I still have the 100 macro, but when I go hiking, I don't bring the 100 macro, just the zoom.

Peter

Yes the 35-70 f/2.8 seems to be the perfect lens and I was totally blown away by the macro feature. Nobody told me about that macro feature when I had posted earlier. The macro feature allows you to get REALLY close - like 10cm or less. It's cool to push the button and crank the lens over to macro too. I think the 35-70 f/4 also has a 'macro' feature but I don't think it will focus anywhere near this close.

I posted this one in November, shot with the 35-70mm up close. On the DMR thread I also shot comparisons with the 35-70mm in Macro versus the 100mm APO and the Zoom was pretty competent in the macro range.

I think both of the 35-70mm lenses focus to the same close focus distance.

Here's one that shows a close up with the 30-70 elmarit at f/5.6 - colors are whacked because I used lightroom instead of flexcolor but I thought they looked nice even though not accurate. The center portion of the flower is about 2.5 cm wide.
Eric

Peter-

I tried your "switch to macro and back" fix. It works - most of the time. Still, that's much better than where I was before.

I noted that the turn around time on your 2.8 lens once it got to Solms was about ten days. Did you get professional treatment, or is that normal for Solms?

Ted

P.S. I'm keeping an eye out for 5th graders carrying Leicas down a mountain. I'm only about 500 yards from the mountains behind La Quinta.

Been using the 180 mm Apo-Elmarit in the close range lately. Here's an image near the focusing limit.
Ice Bridge.
DMR ISO 100.

Here is one from today. Nothing fancy or exotic, just 50mm summicron at f8 and DMR.



Changed the picture, I like this one better.

Edited by robsteve on Feb 04, 2007 at 08:41 PM GMT

Edited by robsteve on Feb 04, 2007 at 08:42 PM GMT