OM-D & PEN Images
/forum/topic/1127925/98

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Jman13
Registered: May 02, 2005
Total Posts: 10690
Country: United States

You do know all Panasonic lenses work on Olympus m4/3 bodies, right?

This is the Panasonic 35-100mm f/2.8 X OIS.

Some pics OF mine:




















hiep
Registered: Dec 29, 2008
Total Posts: 144
Country: United States

WOW! very very nice combo. I love all of the images here with OM D body. Thank you, all.



dukenukem
Registered: Oct 04, 2012
Total Posts: 325
Country: Spain

Uff...Pana 35-100 + 12-35 are my wet dream.

M.Zuiko 9-18


La Reina del Hayedo por _dUkEnUkEm_, en Flickr

Panasonic 45-200


Volviendo a Puerto por _dUkEnUkEm_, en Flickr



Mescalamba
Registered: Jul 06, 2011
Total Posts: 3207
Country: Czech Republic

Jman13 wrote:
You do know all Panasonic lenses work on Olympus m4/3 bodies, right?

This is the Panasonic 35-100mm f/2.8 X OIS.

Some pics OF mine:


Yes they do, but you have no auto-CA or PF correction at all. Which in case of 12-35mm f2.8 is really needed. Your 35-100mm is good on its own, but that cant be said about that 12-35..



Jman13
Registered: May 02, 2005
Total Posts: 10690
Country: United States

That's why I have Lightroom - and the CA correction checkbox gets checked as part of my import settings.



Mescalamba
Registered: Jul 06, 2011
Total Posts: 3207
Country: Czech Republic

Yea thats called progress..

..I call that daylight robbery (and thats polite version).



Jman13
Registered: May 02, 2005
Total Posts: 10690
Country: United States

You can always vote with your wallet and buy Panasonic bodies if its that important to you. It has zero impact on my workflow, though, since I always shoot RAW and I've been using Lightroom for a long time before I shot m4/3. It's not like there aren't a bazillion CA correction tools available in or for most any RAW converter or PP program.



bobbytan
Registered: Feb 03, 2004
Total Posts: 7557
Country: United States

Mescalamba wrote:
Yea thats called progress..

..I call that daylight robbery (and thats polite version).


I am curious ... what would you call those Leica and Zeiss lenses that cost more money than a comparable Canon, Nikon or Olympus lenses ... and it does not come with image stabilization or auto focus?



kmkime
Registered: Mar 02, 2009
Total Posts: 52
Country: United States

Jman13,

Those are all great pics, but really like the lighting on the 3rd. May I ask how you achieved the lighting isolation on the upper third of the camera body? Pardon if this seems an ignorant question. I bought an OM-D a couple of months ago and am following your and bobbytan's postings religiously



Jman13
Registered: May 02, 2005
Total Posts: 10690
Country: United States

The shot is lit from the right, so the lens blocks the bottom 2/3 of the camera from the light. I can't remember if I took this with direct flash or if I bounced it off a white panel on the right. I think it was direct for that shot. I do my off camera flash with a set of very cheap, but so far for me, extremely reliable radio triggers from Cowboy Studio (a set with two receivers and one trigger is $30 from Amazon) with manual flash. I have yet to have a misfire with them, and they work from as far away as 30 feet.



bmwrider75
Registered: Feb 09, 2008
Total Posts: 336
Country: Canada

Really enjoying your work Dukenukem. And everyone else too of course, but Duke's landscape shots are stunning. You have a terrific eye.

dc



Desmoface
Registered: Dec 21, 2004
Total Posts: 62
Country: United States






bobbytan
Registered: Feb 03, 2004
Total Posts: 7557
Country: United States

Jman13 wrote:
The shot is lit from the right, so the lens blocks the bottom 2/3 of the camera from the light. I can't remember if I took this with direct flash or if I bounced it off a white panel on the right. I think it was direct for that shot. I do my off camera flash with a set of very cheap, but so far for me, extremely reliable radio triggers from Cowboy Studio (a set with two receivers and one trigger is $30 from Amazon) with manual flash. I have yet to have a misfire with them, and they work from as far away as 30 feet.


I use the Chinese flash triggers too when I am shooting with studio strobes, but I just bought a Metz 58 speedlite to use mostly hand-held off-camera with the Rogue 3-in-1 honeycomb grid, and using the mini OM-D flash as a radio trigger for low-light shots like this one taken a couple of years ago with my 5D II. This time around I will be shooting with the OM-D and the Metz. Wish me luck.



hiep
Registered: Dec 29, 2008
Total Posts: 144
Country: United States

I use Metz 58 AF-2 as a commander flash with pocketwizard plus II transmit to canon 430 speedlite (with cheap ISHOOT hotshoe on EBAY) to shoot at HSS all the way to 1/4000 on OMD body. It sounds weird but I did it.

The attached picture I test with Metz 58 AF-2 at 1/64 power (HSS) wireless trigger to Canon 430EX/ on ISHOOT hotshoe). This technique is perfect for shooting model at sunset to slow down the ambient light with OLY 75mm len. I used all these technique on OMD EM5 body.

Please let me know if anyone has a better idea how to Shoot HSS with off camera flash by using RADIO trigger (NOT to use RC feature on OMD).

All the way up to 1/4000 with Zero banding



bobbytan
Registered: Feb 03, 2004
Total Posts: 7557
Country: United States

Yes, I meant to say using the Metz in the slave mode and using the mini OM-D flash to trigger the Metz. The mini flash has no effect on the subject other than maybe adding a catchlight. I would mount the Metz to my OM-D for HSS shooting during the day, mostly just to fill the shadows. I suppose I could also use the FL-600R on-camera as the fill-flash in HSS, and the flash from the 600 will trigger the Metz if I use that as the main light, or as a second fill or separation light. I am new to using speedlites off-camera but it's not exactly rocket science.

hiep wrote:
I use Metz 58 AF-2 as a commander flash with pocketwizard plus II transmit to canon 430 speedlite (with cheap ISHOOT hotshoe on EBAY) to shoot at HSS all the way to 1/4000 on OMD body. It sounds weird but I did it.

The attached picture I test with Metz 58 AF-2 at 1/64 power (HSS) wireless trigger to Canon 430EX/ on ISHOOT hotshoe). This technique is perfect for shooting model at sunset to slow down the ambient light with OLY 75mm len. I used all these technique on OMD EM5 body.

Please let me know if anyone has a better idea how to Shoot HSS with off camera flash by using RADIO trigger (NOT to use RC feature on OMD).

All the way up to 1/4000 with Zero banding



thaiusmle2
Registered: Dec 29, 2012
Total Posts: 15
Country: United States

Jman13 wrote:
You do know all Panasonic lenses work on Olympus m4/3 bodies, right?

This is the Panasonic 35-100mm f/2.8 X OIS.

Some pics OF mine:




















Jordan, Nice lens and pics. I have a question. I am starting from scratch and don't need long telephoto. Will you pick 45 f/1.8 + 60 f/2.8 + 40-150 VS 35-100 f/2.8 (May be more expensive). Thanks!


Jman13
Registered: May 02, 2005
Total Posts: 10690
Country: United States

That is a very tough question indeed. I actually own all of those lenses, so I'm familiar with their strengths and weaknesses (though the 40-150 is likely to be sold very shortly).

A lot depends on how you work. Do you prefer primes? Do you need macro capability? Do you need speed in the 45mm range? The 40-150 is optically very good in the close to medium range, though it softens towards infinity. From 5-15 feet, though, it's absolutely stellar (especially given the price). The 45/1.8 is an excellent lens, well worth its cost, and it's TINY. The 60/2.8 is near flawless. Very low CA, very sharp, compact, quick focus for a macro, good focus selection switch, weathersealed. Of course the 35-100/2.8 is going to be the most versatile with the fast aperture and range....it's also weathersealed and very well built. Internal zoom too.

Ultimately, for me, I'd probably take the 35-100, but it would be really hard for me to let the 60/2.8 macro go. I don't shoot a LOT of macro, but I do shoot enough to make it worthwhile to have a dedicated macro lens, and the 60/2.8 is hard to beat. I like and use my 45/1.8 a fair bit, and it's great for being super compact, though I've found myself using it far less since I got the 75/1.8 and 35-100/2.8. Part of that is because I prefer a little longer FOV for portraits than the 85-90mm (35mm) range, and so the 60/2.8, 75/1.8 and 35-100 are more appealing to me for that purpose, but I know a lot of photographers prefer that 85mm view over, say, 100mm or 135mm.

I've said that if I could only have 3 lenses for Micro 4/3, I'd take the 7-14, 25/1.4 and 35-100/2.8. If I was making a prime kit and could only choose 3, I'd choose the 12/2, 25/1.4 and 60/2.8. (sub the 45/1.8 for the 60/2.8 if you never shoot macro, just for the size savings and faster aperture).

Sorry for no real definitive answer....



Delatant
Registered: Oct 14, 2010
Total Posts: 163
Country: United States

Helpful!



thaiusmle2
Registered: Dec 29, 2012
Total Posts: 15
Country: United States

Thanks!!! Very informative. I don't shoot much macro, but would like to learn some more.

Jman13 wrote:
That is a very tough question indeed. I actually own all of those lenses, so I'm familiar with their strengths and weaknesses (though the 40-150 is likely to be sold very shortly).

A lot depends on how you work. Do you prefer primes? Do you need macro capability? Do you need speed in the 45mm range? The 40-150 is optically very good in the close to medium range, though it softens towards infinity. From 5-15 feet, though, it's absolutely stellar (especially given the price). The 45/1.8 is an excellent lens, well worth its cost, and it's TINY. The 60/2.8 is near flawless. Very low CA, very sharp, compact, quick focus for a macro, good focus selection switch, weathersealed. Of course the 35-100/2.8 is going to be the most versatile with the fast aperture and range....it's also weathersealed and very well built. Internal zoom too.

Ultimately, for me, I'd probably take the 35-100, but it would be really hard for me to let the 60/2.8 macro go. I don't shoot a LOT of macro, but I do shoot enough to make it worthwhile to have a dedicated macro lens, and the 60/2.8 is hard to beat. I like and use my 45/1.8 a fair bit, and it's great for being super compact, though I've found myself using it far less since I got the 75/1.8 and 35-100/2.8. Part of that is because I prefer a little longer FOV for portraits than the 85-90mm (35mm) range, and so the 60/2.8, 75/1.8 and 35-100 are more appealing to me for that purpose, but I know a lot of photographers prefer that 85mm view over, say, 100mm or 135mm.

I've said that if I could only have 3 lenses for Micro 4/3, I'd take the 7-14, 25/1.4 and 35-100/2.8. If I was making a prime kit and could only choose 3, I'd choose the 12/2, 25/1.4 and 60/2.8. (sub the 45/1.8 for the 60/2.8 if you never shoot macro, just for the size savings and faster aperture).

Sorry for no real definitive answer....



hiep
Registered: Dec 29, 2008
Total Posts: 144
Country: United States

Nice pictures with your Panasonic 35-100mm.
I am asking myself "Should I give up my canon 70-200mm II and buy a Panasonic 35-100mm?" I still have a Canon 70-200mm and who know one of these days I may switching back to Canon body. For now, I enjoy my OMD EM5
BTW, Pana 35-100 is now on sale ($1399).



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