Fujifilm X-mount Image Thread
/forum/topic/1097477/3

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kosmoskatten
Registered: Oct 11, 2005
Total Posts: 3059
Country: Sweden

deadwolfbones wrote:
Some SOOC JPEGs from the X-Pro1. 35/1.4 and 18/2. All default settings, various film emulation modes:



The color doesn't seem off, I don't doubt the roof color. I was thinking more of the posterization effect or whatever you might call it. The transition from red/brick color to the surrounding areas and the lower part of the roof seems very strange. It looks very unnatural. I should have been more clear in my comment.

Many of the other shots are very vivid and crisp, yet natural. A few are like louping a slide, and that is nice.

Bigkidneys: as a long time slide shooter I'd say I did prefer Provia over Velvia. The digital equivalents are quite accurate (bar the reds, which aren't Fuji's forte on digital) and if you are shooting in harsh light I would recommend trying the Astia setting.



deadwolfbones
Registered: Feb 22, 2010
Total Posts: 2784
Country: United States

Yeah, the roof "finish" was chipped off nearer the gutter, so the lack of color there is accurate, but the transition does look a bit posterized. I'll try to walk back over there later this week and get some more shots of it so you can compare when it's in focus.

Maybe I'll try it with my D700 and K-5 as well.



jamesf99
Registered: Oct 09, 2004
Total Posts: 7323
Country: United States

ceder wrote:
Hi all,
Thought it would be nice with a thread with photos from the Fuji X-Pro1.

I start with a landscape shot - done with a ND110 filter. The X-Pro1 is a bit peculiar when it comes to extreme long exposures - you can read about it on my site: http://cederphotography.com/Blog



Thanks for the info. Very informative and just the kind of thing that interests me (night/low-light/long exposures and IR).

A small correction. Your statement that "Nikon cameras have their lowest ISO at 200" is no longer correct. The D800 definitely has it, and D4 (I think?) will also offer ISO 100.

A nit picking issue on the blog format - why not let the browser windows scroll instead of putting in your own scroll bar? Keeping the top region from scrolling is trivial, and using the built in scroll bars is so much more convenient (IMO) when compared to the small scroll tab you have. Oh well, just a thought...



kosmoskatten
Registered: Oct 11, 2005
Total Posts: 3059
Country: Sweden

DWB; that would explain it. I am not really nitpicking about it, I was just curious. It was probably just an unfortunate combination of buttery smooth OOF and Jpeg mode.

All in all I am quite impressed by the X Pro 1 output, still on the fence on highlight handling though.



mfoto
Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Total Posts: 2412
Country: Canada

35 1.4, f/4, ISO 400







mfoto
Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Total Posts: 2412
Country: Canada

35 1.4, f/8, ISO 200







mfoto
Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Total Posts: 2412
Country: Canada

I have just come full circle in regards to the X-Pro1. From the initial anticipation before the camera arrived, the concerns I had before buying it, the excitement of first trying it out to getting frustrated with it, trying to take it back to the dealer, having to keep it and finally coming to terms with what kind of camera it is and fully appreciating the picture quality.

Check my blog post for more if interested.



Brody LeBlanc
Registered: Oct 04, 2007
Total Posts: 1052
Country: Canada

mfoto wrote:
I have just come full circle in regards to the X-Pro1. From the initial anticipation before the camera arrived, the concerns I had before buying it, the excitement of first trying it out to getting frustrated with it, trying to take it back to the dealer, having to keep it and finally coming to terms with what kind of camera it is and fully appreciating the picture quality.

Check my blog post for more if interested.


Great review and I sort of feel the same about the XP-1. I think the thing to realize is there's quite a sharp learning curve with the camera. Once I had it figured out, it became a dream to shoot with. I'm actually really impressed with the auto-focus, especially with the 35/1.4. It's not lightning fast but it's amazingly accurate. I'm also using the XP-1 along side my 5DII... to be hoenst, I dont think the 5DII will get much use anymore. All I need is a 35mm equivilant on the XP-1 and i'll be a happy camper.

http://www.derekclarkphotography.com/index.php/blog/ (this isn't my blog, but it was an awesome read about the X-Pro1)



mfoto
Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Total Posts: 2412
Country: Canada

Thanks Brody. I am also looking forward to seeing the upcoming 35mm and 21mm equivalent lenses.

Right now I shoot everything I possible can with the X-Pro1. I am sure the 5D Mark II would do a fine job with most of the stuff I am shooting but for now there is the new camera factor plus it is very interesting to see where the X-Pro1 does a good job. In my opinion I find the colours more pleasing and the macro is quite good, plus details in the shadows. For soccer I still grab a 1D III and for some work stuff the 5D II. They are just tools in different league.

I am looking for a 52mm ND 0.9 filter... trying do decide between a $23 HMC Hoya or $64 BW at B&H? Any ideas?



mfoto
Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Total Posts: 2412
Country: Canada

Early Sunday evening, 35 1.4, f/9, ISO 200









rscheffler
Registered: Aug 23, 2005
Total Posts: 6556
Country: Canada

mfoto wrote:

I am looking for a 52mm ND 0.9 filter... trying do decide between a $23 HMC Hoya or $64 BW at B&H? Any ideas?


I bought the Hoya and it seems OK, but have only used it on the NEX 5N and M9, though I do think images with it have a slight magenta shift vs. no filtration. I have no experience with the B+W so can't comment on the difference, if any. One tidbit I picked up recently in a thread about the higher opacity NDs was that the Helipans tend to be more neutral, or slightly cool, compared to the B+W 6 and 10 stop NDs, which apparently have a reddish shift. Not sure if that also applies to the B+W 3 stop ND.

bigkidneys wrote:
Spent the weekend in NOLA and have to say I really love the Xpro1. Of course there are a few who are hating on the camera but I love it and it works great for me. Just a few from the weekend.


Very nice! Could you comment on how you're processing these? EXIF shows you're using LR 3.2, so you must be importing either camera-Jpegs or using Silkypix for RAW conversion and doing the final touches in LR? The backlit/shaded bassist against the sunlit background has a great tonal range and works very nicely in B&W.



bigkidneys
Registered: Jun 26, 2010
Total Posts: 1012
Country: United States

That's odd. All are jpeg sooc and exported from Aperture. The B&W were all edited in SEP 2 through Aperture. I believe all were high structure preset and really nothing else added. I have LR but rarely use it. I used the film bracketing which is great to learn how the colors work with the different film sets.



mfoto
Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Total Posts: 2412
Country: Canada

rscheffler wrote:
mfoto wrote:

I am looking for a 52mm ND 0.9 filter... trying do decide between a $23 HMC Hoya or $64 BW at B&H? Any ideas?


I bought the Hoya and it seems OK, but have only used it on the NEX 5N and M9, though I do think images with it have a slight magenta shift vs. no filtration. I have no experience with the B+W so can't comment on the difference, if any. One tidbit I picked up recently in a thread about the higher opacity NDs was that the Helipans tend to be more neutral, or slightly cool, compared to the B+W 6 and 10 stop NDs, which apparently have a reddish shift. Not sure if that also applies to the B+W 3 stop ND.



Thanks Ron... I ordered a single coat B+W for $42.. I shall see how it works



snowboarder
Registered: Aug 27, 2004
Total Posts: 2860
Country: United States

Can you guys please share how the manual focussing is done with manual lenses?
The IQ seems to be great and as I don't care about AF, I might give it a shot.
Leica seems to be dropping the ball with the "big May 10th announcement".
Can you describe how you use the fancy VF? I assume you can only use the EVF
for MF if you want to use magnification, right?
Is it true that you have to "program" you manual lens and there is only one slot?
Why do you need to do it? To align the OVF lines?
Sorry, but I'm confused a bit here...



Jeff Kott
Registered: Oct 12, 2008
Total Posts: 1599
Country: United States

snowboarder wrote:
Can you guys please share how the manual focussing is done with manual lenses?
The IQ seems to be great and as I don't care about AF, I might give it a shot.
Leica seems to be dropping the ball with the "big May 10th announcement".
Can you describe how you use the fancy VF? I assume you can only use the EVF
for MF if you want to use magnification, right?
Is it true that you have to "program" you manual lens and there is only one slot?
Why do you need to do it? To align the OVF lines?
Sorry, but I'm confused a bit here...


+1 - I'm curious too.



miloz
Registered: Jun 23, 2010
Total Posts: 267
Country: United States


Untitled by celluloidpropaganda, on Flickr



bigkidneys
Registered: Jun 26, 2010
Total Posts: 1012
Country: United States

snowboarder wrote:
Can you guys please share how the manual focussing is done with manual lenses?
The IQ seems to be great and as I don't care about AF, I might give it a shot.
Leica seems to be dropping the ball with the "big May 10th announcement".
Can you describe how you use the fancy VF? I assume you can only use the EVF
for MF if you want to use magnification, right?
Is it true that you have to "program" you manual lens and there is only one slot?
Why do you need to do it? To align the OVF lines?
Sorry, but I'm confused a bit here...


No problem. There are 6 slots for MF lenses to select from with 4 being pre-determined. They are 21,24,28 and 35. The last two slots can be customized to whatever you want. I use the EVF for focus with all my lenses including the AF Fuji ones. When using the pre determined slots you can bring up the correct frame lines using the OVF where as they stop after 35mm. Regardless of what FL you use, no frame lines are brought up in the EVF. I have 20/10 vision so using the EVF even at wide open I can pretty much get spot on focus. After using the Nex 7 which I still have, if they were to incorporate focus peaking it would help tremendously. They do have a focus magnification feature where you press the thumb wheel to activate it but it's something crazy like 20x or something so it's a complete pita to use as its all shaky and all over the place. If they were to let you choose from different magnifications like Sony, it would be better but focus peaking is still much better for most IMO. Also, those pictures are all jpegs with slight tweaks added in color efex pro 4. After having the X100 and shooting it mostly in jpeg but moving to raw once it was available, I was able to get much better files with lots leeway in processing. Once we get good support for the Xpro1, I think the IQ will likely be even better. If you do get any of the lenses, the 35 and 60 are the ones to get. I have all 3 but those two have the most "pop out at you" of them all. Lots of peopl seem to be complaining about their AF abilities but it's not an issue for me. The face painted child was running around and stopped for a brief second in front of me when I snapped the picture. Of course not DSLR or M4/3 fast, but fast enough for most.



corposant
Registered: Jul 14, 2010
Total Posts: 2959
Country: United States

Man, Fuji's colors are always awesome. It's too bad it feels like you have to always pay a little too much for them.



Rich M
Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Total Posts: 322
Country: United States

snowboarder wrote:
Can you guys please share how the manual focussing is done with manual lenses?
The IQ seems to be great and as I don't care about AF, I might give it a shot.
Leica seems to be dropping the ball with the "big May 10th announcement".
Can you describe how you use the fancy VF? I assume you can only use the EVF
for MF if you want to use magnification, right?
Is it true that you have to "program" you manual lens and there is only one slot?
Why do you need to do it? To align the OVF lines?
Sorry, but I'm confused a bit here...


Andrew......Jason explained it well. The "slots" are for changing the frame lines, but I find them so faint that I just use the EVF. The other value of the six slots are for the focal length information be recorded in EXIF. (I always forget, so the two shots posted below all say 50mm ) The magnification ratio at 20X is slightly silly, but it works.

Here are two from today.....the first is with the Leica 24/3.8 Elmar........the second is with the Contax 100-300 at 300mm (handheld). Because of no RAW support, they are pretty much SOOC.













R


snowboarder
Registered: Aug 27, 2004
Total Posts: 2860
Country: United States

bigkidneys wrote:
They do have a focus magnification feature where you press the thumb wheel to activate it but it's something crazy like 20x ..



Thanks man! So it seems they could easily improve the experience
by fixing the magnification level and adding focus peaking.
How is the EVF comparing to NEX-7?
How do you feel comparing files from both?
I understand it would be easier if you could have RAW Fuji files...
If I get it, I'd probably get the 35 f1.4 lens, looks very nice.
But I'm not sure how much I can gain comparing to the NEX IQ.
Sucks it's still the same crop, can someone wake up and bring us a FF camera?



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