Posted this in the alt flowers thread too. XP1 + 35 1.4:

	Last of the Dogwood Spring by Clovermead Photography, on Flickr

deadwolfbones wrote:
Some SOOC JPEGs from the X-Pro1. 35/1.4 and 18/2. All default settings, various film emulation modes:



The color doesn't seem off, I don't doubt the roof color. I was thinking more of the posterization effect or whatever you might call it. The transition from red/brick color to the surrounding areas and the lower part of the roof seems very strange. It looks very unnatural. I should have been more clear in my comment.

Many of the other shots are very vivid and crisp, yet natural. A few are like louping a slide, and that is nice.

Bigkidneys: as a long time slide shooter I'd say I did prefer Provia over Velvia. The digital equivalents are quite accurate (bar the reds, which aren't Fuji's forte on digital) and if you are shooting in harsh light I would recommend trying the Astia setting.

Yeah, the roof "finish" was chipped off nearer the gutter, so the lack of color there is accurate, but the transition does look a bit posterized. I'll try to walk back over there later this week and get some more shots of it so you can compare when it's in focus.

Maybe I'll try it with my D700 and K-5 as well.

ceder wrote:
Hi all,
Thought it would be nice with a thread with photos from the Fuji X-Pro1.

I start with a landscape shot - done with a ND110 filter. The X-Pro1 is a bit peculiar when it comes to extreme long exposures - you can read about it on my site: http://cederphotography.com/Blog


Thanks for the info. Very informative and just the kind of thing that interests me (night/low-light/long exposures and IR).

A small correction. Your statement that "Nikon cameras have their lowest ISO at 200" is no longer correct. The D800 definitely has it, and D4 (I think?) will also offer ISO 100.

A nit picking issue on the blog format - why not let the browser windows scroll instead of putting in your own scroll bar? Keeping the top region from scrolling is trivial, and using the built in scroll bars is so much more convenient (IMO) when compared to the small scroll tab you have. Oh well, just a thought...

DWB; that would explain it. I am not really nitpicking about it, I was just curious. It was probably just an unfortunate combination of buttery smooth OOF and Jpeg mode.

All in all I am quite impressed by the X Pro 1 output, still on the fence on highlight handling though.

35 1.4, f/4, ISO 400

35 1.4, f/8, ISO 200

Couple of pics of my girls right before a concert 2 weeks ago. Converted in SEP2

I have just come full circle in regards to the X-Pro1. From the initial anticipation before the camera arrived, the concerns I had before buying it, the excitement of first trying it out to getting frustrated with it, trying to take it back to the dealer, having to keep it and finally coming to terms with what kind of camera it is and fully appreciating the picture quality.

Check my blog post for more if interested.

mfoto wrote:
I have just come full circle in regards to the X-Pro1. From the initial anticipation before the camera arrived, the concerns I had before buying it, the excitement of first trying it out to getting frustrated with it, trying to take it back to the dealer, having to keep it and finally coming to terms with what kind of camera it is and fully appreciating the picture quality.

Check my blog post for more if interested.

Great review and I sort of feel the same about the XP-1. I think the thing to realize is there's quite a sharp learning curve with the camera. Once I had it figured out, it became a dream to shoot with. I'm actually really impressed with the auto-focus, especially with the 35/1.4. It's not lightning fast but it's amazingly accurate. I'm also using the XP-1 along side my 5DII... to be hoenst, I dont think the 5DII will get much use anymore. All I need is a 35mm equivilant on the XP-1 and i'll be a happy camper.

http://www.derekclarkphotography.com/index.php/blog/ (this isn't my blog, but it was an awesome read about the X-Pro1)

Thanks Brody. I am also looking forward to seeing the upcoming 35mm and 21mm equivalent lenses.

Right now I shoot everything I possible can with the X-Pro1. I am sure the 5D Mark II would do a fine job with most of the stuff I am shooting but for now there is the new camera factor plus it is very interesting to see where the X-Pro1 does a good job. In my opinion I find the colours more pleasing and the macro is quite good, plus details in the shadows. For soccer I still grab a 1D III and for some work stuff the 5D II. They are just tools in different league.

I am looking for a 52mm ND 0.9 filter... trying do decide between a $23 HMC Hoya or $64 BW at B&H? Any ideas?

Early Sunday evening, 35 1.4, f/9, ISO 200

Spent the weekend in NOLA and have to say I really love the Xpro1. Of course there are a few who are hating on the camera but I love it and it works great for me. Just a few from the weekend.

A few more from the weekend

mfoto wrote:

I am looking for a 52mm ND 0.9 filter... trying do decide between a $23 HMC Hoya or $64 BW at B&H? Any ideas?


I bought the Hoya and it seems OK, but have only used it on the NEX 5N and M9, though I do think images with it have a slight magenta shift vs. no filtration. I have no experience with the B+W so can't comment on the difference, if any. One tidbit I picked up recently in a thread about the higher opacity NDs was that the Helipans tend to be more neutral, or slightly cool, compared to the B+W 6 and 10 stop NDs, which apparently have a reddish shift. Not sure if that also applies to the B+W 3 stop ND.

bigkidneys wrote:
Spent the weekend in NOLA and have to say I really love the Xpro1. Of course there are a few who are hating on the camera but I love it and it works great for me. Just a few from the weekend.

Very nice! Could you comment on how you're processing these? EXIF shows you're using LR 3.2, so you must be importing either camera-Jpegs or using Silkypix for RAW conversion and doing the final touches in LR? The backlit/shaded bassist against the sunlit background has a great tonal range and works very nicely in B&W.

That's odd. All are jpeg sooc and exported from Aperture. The B&W were all edited in SEP 2 through Aperture. I believe all were high structure preset and really nothing else added. I have LR but rarely use it. I used the film bracketing which is great to learn how the colors work with the different film sets.

rscheffler wrote:
mfoto wrote:

I am looking for a 52mm ND 0.9 filter... trying do decide between a $23 HMC Hoya or $64 BW at B&H? Any ideas?


I bought the Hoya and it seems OK, but have only used it on the NEX 5N and M9, though I do think images with it have a slight magenta shift vs. no filtration. I have no experience with the B+W so can't comment on the difference, if any. One tidbit I picked up recently in a thread about the higher opacity NDs was that the Helipans tend to be more neutral, or slightly cool, compared to the B+W 6 and 10 stop NDs, which apparently have a reddish shift. Not sure if that also applies to the B+W 3 stop ND.



Thanks Ron... I ordered a single coat B+W for $42.. I shall see how it works

A few today from our Crawfish Festival

Can you guys please share how the manual focussing is done with manual lenses?
The IQ seems to be great and as I don't care about AF, I might give it a shot.
Leica seems to be dropping the ball with the "big May 10th announcement".
Can you describe how you use the fancy VF? I assume you can only use the EVF
for MF if you want to use magnification, right?
Is it true that you have to "program" you manual lens and there is only one slot?
Why do you need to do it? To align the OVF lines?
Sorry, but I'm confused a bit here...

snowboarder wrote:
Can you guys please share how the manual focussing is done with manual lenses?
The IQ seems to be great and as I don't care about AF, I might give it a shot.
Leica seems to be dropping the ball with the "big May 10th announcement".
Can you describe how you use the fancy VF? I assume you can only use the EVF
for MF if you want to use magnification, right?
Is it true that you have to "program" you manual lens and there is only one slot?
Why do you need to do it? To align the OVF lines?
Sorry, but I'm confused a bit here...

+1 - I'm curious too.