Fred,
What adhesive did you use to glue on the ring to the lens cap?

Anyone tried the Hitech Lucroit 165mm filter system on this?

http://www.teamworkphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1047_78_1109_1110&products_id=16390

RobDickinson wrote:
Anyone tried the Hitech Lucroit 165mm filter system on this?

http://www.teamworkphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1047_78_1109_1110&products_id=16390

It looks as if would work, they list quite a few lenses with bulbous front elements that do not come with hoods, filter rings, or have non removable hoods. It sounds as if it is a slip on holder with friction fit from a big o-ring? At 6.5" filter width, its even larger than the Lee SW150 for the Nikon 14-24. However, if its like the other Hitech NDs there is a very strong magenta cast above 3 stops.
Mike K

Thanks Fred !

Just a quick note to say that the Hitech system works too - the flange on the wide-angle 82 ring (and presumably all Hitech rings) is much less pronounced than the Lee one in the pictures, but it glued onto the cut-down cap pretty well - I used Gorilla Epoxy 5 min. The inner thread then came off just like Fred's experience: one cut and I was able to get it out. I had about 4-5 mm shift (vertical shift direction in landscape mode - or sideways shift/cross in portrait mode) but essentially no cross (sideways shift in landscape mode) before the ring shows up in the corners. I was then able to increase that by another 1.5 to 2 mm when I ground off all the rest of the inner flange to which the 82mm thread had been glued. That was tedious but who knows when I might be glad I did it (Off to spray with flat black). The Lee may well be simpler if you get to the 86mm opening without having to grind - see below!

Just for the record: The opening on the Hitech ring is now about 86mm and its top just clears the bulbous nose of the lens - as in the pictures above. The opening in the cut-down cap is about 87mm. I have ~6.5-7 mm of shift with the Hitech holder in place with spacers etc for a thick filter (e.g. the Pro-Stop 3.0 with its foam lightblocking flange) and a separate slot for a grad. With both slots in place I can shift about 3mm sideways in landscape and 5 mm with only the thick slot. YMMV

Fun little project and useful to be able use (one or two) filters even if some movements are limited. A much bigger system would be needed to get to use all/more of the movements - I couldn't open the teamworkphoto links...

Thanks, Fred and all, for these posts. I happen to have the required parts on hand (and a 17mm ts-e).

Keep in mind that if you really need to shift or tilt fully to make the image you seek and you get some vignetting, it can be cloned or repaired in post. Shoot away!

Jeffrey wrote:
Thanks, Fred and all, for these posts. I happen to have the required parts on hand (and a 17mm ts-e).

Keep in mind that if you really need to shift or tilt fully to make the image you seek and you get some vignetting, it can be cloned or repaired in post. Shoot away!

Indeed! My numbers for movements are conservative - another mm or 2 would have been easy to correc tbecause it was only the ring visible in the extreme corners. After that, the holder came into view - not quite so easy to deal with...

Andy,
Where you report 6-7mm shift available w/o vignetting , this is shift parallel to the direction of the filter holder slots? How much shift is available orthogonal to the direction of the filter holder slots?

I can't get the teamwork photo link to work anymore either, and I did look at it before.
Mike K

Fred Miranda wrote:
Update:
I shaved the edges of the Lee FK holder (It now looks more rounded). Now I don't get any vignetting when turning the holder. I also got a couple more mm free vignetting when shifting. I'm using the same custom holder with all my other landscape lenses (24TSE and 85TSE)
Fred

I was wondering what edges of the holder did you shave?

Mike K wrote:
Andy,
Where you report 6-7mm shift available w/o vignetting , this is shift parallel to the direction of the filter holder slots? How much shift is available orthogonal to the direction of the filter holder slots?

Mike K

Mike - sorry for the delay in answering the Q.
With just one spacer (enough to hold the 3.0 OD filter, for example) it is the ring that becomes visible at the limit (i.e in the corners) At that same point, a second spacer to hold a second filter, the spacer/slotmaker begins to show up sooner. These are all with the slots either parallel or at right angles to the ground plane. For example, with vertical slots, holding a polarizer 4x4 and GND, needing two slots, there's not much shift sideways in landscape mode, but you could shift up or down. I see this as a nice ability to use filters but getting shifts and filters together is quite limited.

How much would it cost if I outsource the job (Fred Miranda's rig) ? :-)

These tips and tricks threads should be made sticky, way more useful than those argumentative threads that always float to the top.

the price for this is pretty steep, but i wonder if it would fit the 17TSE
https://www.thecamerastore.com/products/lee/lee-sw150-filter-holder

khurram1 wrote:
the price for this is pretty steep, but i wonder if it would fit the 17TSE
https://www.thecamerastore.com/products/lee/lee-sw150-filter-holder

The SW 150 clamps in front of and behind the fixed hood of the 14-24 lens. Lee was asked many times during the development of this holder and they replied that it was not (yet??) in their plans to modify the holder to fit the Canon 17 TSE (which doesn't have any hood). Note that it uses 150mm (6") wide filters.

Very nice setup Fred! I have a similar filter holder I made for my 16-35 f/2.8 II. A friend came up with the idea a few years ago and showed me how to do it. Same idea, cut out the inner ring of an 82mm WA adapter with a dremmel tool, epoxy it to a spare lens hood (mounted backwards). Allows the use of a normal (slim) polarizer with no vignetting, and is very fast to put on/off in the field. This same design will also work nicely with the 17-40L.

This is the 16-35 II with a Hoya HD slim polarizer mounted. I will usually set the polarizer first then clip on the adapter.

I am sending this out to a shop to get a custom made holder a la Fred M. Just need to know one thing: what is the distance from the rim of the lens to the outermost point of the bulbous element?

Rajan Parrikar wrote:
I am sending this out to a shop to get a custom made holder a la Fred M. Just need to know one thing: what is the distance from the rim of the lens to the outermost point of the bulbous element?


You can measure the lens cap to get the number, can't you?

n0b0 wrote:
Rajan Parrikar wrote:
I am sending this out to a shop to get a custom made holder a la Fred M. Just need to know one thing: what is the distance from the rim of the lens to the outermost point of the bulbous element?


You can measure the lens cap to get the number, can't you?


Yes, but I wanted to know if there are officially published dimensions. I couldn't find it via a quick Google search.

Fred,

I missed this until I saw the link (from a few days ago) in the Zeiss 15 thread. Just wanted to say thanks for posting this procedure. I'm always interested in ways to adapt filters to lenses that weren't originally designed to accept them.

Brad

I wanted to try the Canon 17mm TS-E lens on my trip to Utah and Arizona at the end of next month and decided to try the Lee Filter adapter setup described by Fred in an earlier post.
Here is a quick review of what I did and what I found out.

My first image shows the Lee Wide adapter (any size) after it has had the middle removed .I then used a 2" drum sander in my drill press to grind it out further to the edge of the inner indent area shown in picture 1. This gave me a 83mm opening. Finally, I tapered and rounded it towards the outer edge using a dremel with sanding wheel and painted it flat black. Picture 2 shows the result of mounting the modified adapter in the 17mm lens hood piece as described by Fred. Finally, I wanted to see how this would work with my Lee Medium Wide Shade. The last two pictures show this combination. I have 1 filter slot on this hood.

I found that with no lens hood I basically had full tilt and about 7 - 7 1/2 mm of shift without noticeable vignetting. With the hood, I could basically get full tilt if the hood was oriented with the long axis in the tilt direction, and about 4 degrees of tilt with the other hood orientation.
I found that I could get about 4 1/2mm - 5mm of shift with the long axis of the hood oriented in the shift direction and no shift without vignetting in the other hood axis orientation. I'm guessing you could do a little better with the Lee Wide Hood as the Medium Wide is really close to vignetting in the narrow dimension.I would have tried this but I don't have one. It would also be interesting to see if the wide hood with built in 105 polarizer would work.

Thanks everyone for your insight into this 17mm filter adaptation.
Dave

Mike K wrote:
Fred Miranda wrote:
Now I just need to figure out how to make the 17mm TSE work with my Lee filters...I saw some folks using the lens cap + Cokin X-Pro but I really wanted to use my Lee filter on it. Perhaps if I use the lens cap and a 82mm WA Lee adapter, it will do the trick.

Fred,
Limited success with this approach:
http://ben-egbert.smugmug.com/Utility/17TSE-lens-hood-adaptor/15776282_tWQXNF#!i=1183734374&k=bY6fW

For CP use one could use the Lee 4x4" CP filter.
It appears that limited horizontal shift with a vertically aligned filter (or vice versa) is limiting.

I too have seen a few other adaptations with cutting up an extra cap. Its obvious that the reason there is no hood for this lens is that it would really have to be huge to clear possible tilts and shift movements.
Mike K



Hi Mike: I see you linked my conversion. I have used it for a long time now, and have some observations.


If I could start over, I would use a lens cap because my rig will change the focus if bumped. It can be dealt with but does slow you down especially when tilting for near and refocusing for far. The 17TSE produces stunning results when perfectly focused and disappointing when not.

I have the Lee hood and a 105mm BW filter. I can use on the 17 but get vignetting, Since many UWA shots need a pano crop anyway, its easy to eliminate. But I have not been happy with the uneven sky even when the polarizing effect is backed off. I just don't use it now below 35mm.

This lens needs a hood, flare that I never saw has ruined many pictures.

I have noticed I get sharper images when I use no filters. I am not sure if its misfocus or some sort of interaction between the flat front filter and the bulbous lens. The issue is strange. I can get very sharp foreground and infinity but soft sides.

This has been hard to repeat and could be just critical focus. I do note that the sides go soft faster than elsewhere when focus is off.

Edit, I found this post while searching for a manufactured adapter. I see that lee has one for the Nikon 14-24, why not the Canon 17TSE? I wonder why somebody like RRS has not made one? Maybe I will email them. I already have a home made adapter and would like one made in a machine shop.