Canon 17mm f/4L TS-E Custom Filter Adapter
/forum/topic/1081875/1

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Roland W
Registered: Apr 23, 2004
Total Posts: 2266
Country: United States

The extra 7 mm of diameter should in theory give about an additional 2.5 mm of available shift before problems show up, so consider that as you decide how to proceed.

Removing the adapter from the modified lens cap after it has been bonded on could be anything from easy to very hard, depending on how clean the surfaces were when you bonded it, and how much epoxy is actually holding things together. If it is "very easy", you probably do not want to use it that way in the field, so you might try flexing it and pulling on it to see if it comes apart. If it does, you can go for the modified metal ring. If it does not come apart easily, you will need to decide how much you want more shift. I would probably not recomend the removal of the inner metal ring while the lens cap part is still bonded on, but you may get away with it. The worst that may happen is that you damage the plastic cap portion, and need to get another one to modify.

I have noted that all the Lee Wide Angle adapters seem to have the same outer portion, with only the inner part being different for each adapter size. That means if you were modifying the adapter to remove the inner ring, you could start with any Wide Angle adapter that you have or that happened to be in stock. That had me realize that I have a Wide Angle adapter with a smaller size that I no longer need, so I will likely try to modify it, and keep my 82 mm Wide Angle adapters available for my two 82 mm wide angle lenses.

Update: I posted this while you were cutting your inner ring out, and missed the previous post. Thanks for being first at trying it, so that we all know it is fairly easy.



Fred Miranda
Registered: Dec 31, 2001
Total Posts: 22140
Country: United States

Roland W wrote:
The extra 7 mm of diameter should in theory give about an additional 2.5 mm of available shift before problems show up, so consider that as you decide how to proceed.

Removing the adapter from the modified lens cap after it has been bonded on could be anything from easy to very hard, depending on how clean the surfaces were when you bonded it, and how much epoxy is actually holding things together. If it is "very easy", you probably do not want to use it that way in the field, so you might try flexing it and pulling on it to see if it comes apart. If it does, you can go for the modified metal ring. If it does not come apart easily, you will need to decide how much you want more shift. I would probably not recomend the removal of the inner metal ring while the lens cap part is still bonded on, but you may get away with it. The worst that may happen is that you damage the plastic cap portion, and need to get another one to modify.

I have noted that all the Lee Wide Angle adapters seem to have the same outer portion, with only the inner part being different for each adapter size. That means if you were modifying the adapter to remove the inner ring, you could start with any adapter that you have or that happened to be in stock. That had me realize that I have a Wide Angle adapter with a smaller size that I no longer need, so I will likely try to modify it, and keep my 82 mm Wide Angle adapters available for my two 82 mm wide angle lenses.


I just tested and I was able to gain 3mm of shifting. I can now shift -4 to +4 with zero vignetting. At 5mm, the vignetting is almost non-existent but it's there. Now I know I can use about 1/3 the shifting capability and 6 degree of tilting with this adapter whenever needed.
Fred



Mike K
Registered: Mar 01, 2002
Total Posts: 2256
Country: United States

Fred,
for the benefit of all us other 17 TSE owners that could become lens cap modifiers, could you post a few pics of the modification to the WA adapter? Thanks,
Mike K



ilija
Registered: Oct 07, 2011
Total Posts: 3
Country: Croatia

Hello,

Is it possible to see few shots with this setup? On full shift for example?

Thanks,
Ilija



JulianDeLaRosa
Registered: Apr 14, 2007
Total Posts: 644
Country: United States

Fred Miranda wrote:
Basically by removing the thread ring, you gain 7mm as illustrated on the picture below:
Red section = 7mm

Hi Fred. What did you use to cut the thread ring? Thanks!



Fred Miranda
Registered: Dec 31, 2001
Total Posts: 22140
Country: United States

JulianDeLaRosa wrote:
Fred Miranda wrote:
Basically by removing the thread ring, you gain 7mm as illustrated on the picture below:
Red section = 7mm

Hi Fred. What did you use to cut the thread ring? Thanks!


How Julian,
I am no tool guy , but have a dremel and it was very easy to cut the ring off. Just use a thin metal cut accessory for the dremel and cut through one of the sides of the ring. It will come apart.
Fred



jamesf99
Registered: Oct 09, 2004
Total Posts: 7323
Country: United States

Fred,

I don't have the 17mm TSE (yet) but can you show the whole setup, as if it were ready for action?

Thanks for posting this!



Fred Miranda
Registered: Dec 31, 2001
Total Posts: 22140
Country: United States

I will post some pictures of the entire set-up once I unpack today. My gear got all salty and dusty.



JulianDeLaRosa
Registered: Apr 14, 2007
Total Posts: 644
Country: United States

Fred Miranda wrote:
JulianDeLaRosa wrote:
Fred Miranda wrote:
Basically by removing the thread ring, you gain 7mm as illustrated on the picture below:
Red section = 7mm

Hi Fred. What did you use to cut the thread ring? Thanks!


How Julian,
I am no tool guy , but have a dremel and it was very easy to cut the ring off. Just use a thin metal cut accessory for the dremel and cut through one of the sides of the ring. It will come apart.
Fred

Awesome! Thanks! I have a dremel but, I wanted to make sure that's what you used.



Hollander
Registered: Apr 07, 2009
Total Posts: 30
Country: Netherlands

Look here:
http://www.digidaan.net/album/pic-stock.php?image=32924&stock=techniek-apparatuur

He seems to have a solution.

http://www.digidaan.net/photogalleries/stock/techniek-apparatuur/images/DvE00972.jpg



ragsn_old_iron
Registered: Jan 13, 2011
Total Posts: 128
Country: Canada

Hollander wrote:
Look here:
http://www.digidaan.net/album/pic-stock.php?image=32924&stock=techniek-apparatuur

He seems to have a solution.



This is the X-Pro mounted over the 17mm cap. I have the X-Pro and 17tse, and the rubber feet on the tips are easy to knock, and it looks like he has them set far back. Another member here posted on this setup before too, I haven't converted mine to the 17mm yet, but am looking to what Fred has done instead of just attaching the X-Pro with the largest ring adapter (118) to the cap like what is pictured. The other option using the X-Pro speaks to reflection off the back of the filter too, and is found here:

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/792161



Sweetf8
Registered: Feb 12, 2012
Total Posts: 117
Country: United States

Fred Miranda wrote:
JulianDeLaRosa wrote:
Fred Miranda wrote:
Basically by removing the thread ring, you gain 7mm as illustrated on the picture below:
Red section = 7mm

Hi Fred. What did you use to cut the thread ring? Thanks!


How Julian,
I am no tool guy , but have a dremel and it was very easy to cut the ring off. Just use a thin metal cut accessory for the dremel and cut through one of the sides of the ring. It will come apart.
Fred


My ring didn't come apart even after several cuts. It took me more than an hour to sand it off also using a dremel . After gluing, I painted the inside with fine grain pigmented enamel flat paint bought from Micro-Tool (part# CF3-F).

I've tried it with the Cokin Z Pro holder, it's bad! Vignetting with both shift and tilt. While with Lee holder, tilt was OK, I got about 6-7mm shift both ways w/o problem.



Fred Miranda
Registered: Dec 31, 2001
Total Posts: 22140
Country: United States

Sweetf8 wrote:
Fred Miranda wrote:
JulianDeLaRosa wrote:
Fred Miranda wrote:
Basically by removing the thread ring, you gain 7mm as illustrated on the picture below:
Red section = 7mm

Hi Fred. What did you use to cut the thread ring? Thanks!


How Julian,
I am no tool guy , but have a dremel and it was very easy to cut the ring off. Just use a thin metal cut accessory for the dremel and cut through one of the sides of the ring. It will come apart.
Fred


My ring didn't come apart even after several cuts. It took me more than an hour to sand it off also using a dremel . After gluing, I painted the inside with fine grain pigmented enamel flat paint bought from Micro-Tool (part# CF3-F).

I've tried it with the Cokin Z Pro holder, it's bad! Vignetting with both shift and tilt. While with Lee holder, tilt was OK, I got about 6-7mm shift both ways w/o problem.


I'm sorry to hear that. For me the ring came apart as it's just glued there. I cut in one side and it became a little loose and then a cut on the opposite side for it to come apart. It took about 5 minutes.
See the picture:

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/42/622342.jpg



Sweetf8
Registered: Feb 12, 2012
Total Posts: 117
Country: United States

Fred Miranda wrote:

I'm sorry to hear that. For me the ring came apart as it's just glued there. I cut in one side and it became a little loose and then a cut on the opposite side for it to come apart. It took about 5 minutes.
See the picture:


No, Fred. I didn't doubt you. I am aware that Lee WA rings are 2 parts gluing together. Just don't know why MY ring is like that. I shared the info so that others would know, especially one that will try to cut a 67mm ring. That would be the hell of a sanding job if the ring is like mine.



BIGSKY55
Registered: Aug 14, 2009
Total Posts: 3
Country: United States

Fred,
What adhesive did you use to glue on the ring to the lens cap?



RobDickinson
Registered: Sep 25, 2009
Total Posts: 4122
Country: New Zealand

Anyone tried the Hitech Lucroit 165mm filter system on this?

http://www.teamworkphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1047_78_1109_1110&products_id=16390



Mike K
Registered: Mar 01, 2002
Total Posts: 2256
Country: United States

RobDickinson wrote:
Anyone tried the Hitech Lucroit 165mm filter system on this?

http://www.teamworkphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1047_78_1109_1110&products_id=16390


It looks as if would work, they list quite a few lenses with bulbous front elements that do not come with hoods, filter rings, or have non removable hoods. It sounds as if it is a slip on holder with friction fit from a big o-ring? At 6.5" filter width, its even larger than the Lee SW150 for the Nikon 14-24. However, if its like the other Hitech NDs there is a very strong magenta cast above 3 stops.
Mike K



AJSJones
Registered: Jan 22, 2002
Total Posts: 2086
Country: United States

Thanks Fred !

Just a quick note to say that the Hitech system works too - the flange on the wide-angle 82 ring (and presumably all Hitech rings) is much less pronounced than the Lee one in the pictures, but it glued onto the cut-down cap pretty well - I used Gorilla Epoxy 5 min. The inner thread then came off just like Fred's experience: one cut and I was able to get it out. I had about 4-5 mm shift (vertical shift direction in landscape mode - or sideways shift/cross in portrait mode) but essentially no cross (sideways shift in landscape mode) before the ring shows up in the corners. I was then able to increase that by another 1.5 to 2 mm when I ground off all the rest of the inner flange to which the 82mm thread had been glued. That was tedious but who knows when I might be glad I did it (Off to spray with flat black). The Lee may well be simpler if you get to the 86mm opening without having to grind - see below!

Just for the record: The opening on the Hitech ring is now about 86mm and its top just clears the bulbous nose of the lens - as in the pictures above. The opening in the cut-down cap is about 87mm. I have ~6.5-7 mm of shift with the Hitech holder in place with spacers etc for a thick filter (e.g. the Pro-Stop 3.0 with its foam lightblocking flange) and a separate slot for a grad. With both slots in place I can shift about 3mm sideways in landscape and 5 mm with only the thick slot. YMMV

Fun little project and useful to be able use (one or two) filters even if some movements are limited. A much bigger system would be needed to get to use all/more of the movements - I couldn't open the teamworkphoto links...



Jeffrey
Registered: Nov 12, 2002
Total Posts: 10802
Country: United States

Thanks, Fred and all, for these posts. I happen to have the required parts on hand (and a 17mm ts-e).

Keep in mind that if you really need to shift or tilt fully to make the image you seek and you get some vignetting, it can be cloned or repaired in post. Shoot away!



AJSJones
Registered: Jan 22, 2002
Total Posts: 2086
Country: United States

Jeffrey wrote:
Thanks, Fred and all, for these posts. I happen to have the required parts on hand (and a 17mm ts-e).

Keep in mind that if you really need to shift or tilt fully to make the image you seek and you get some vignetting, it can be cloned or repaired in post. Shoot away!


Indeed! My numbers for movements are conservative - another mm or 2 would have been easy to correc tbecause it was only the ring visible in the extreme corners. After that, the holder came into view - not quite so easy to deal with...



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