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| Re: Mixing Ambient and Strobe |
I have the same meter, but as my Phottix Odin radio triggers always do a pre-flash I don't actually use the meter in flash mode.
What I find seems to work fairly consistently is meter according to the backgound (no subject in scene) in relective mode - not with the white dome. Camera on manual. Set the ISO the same on the camera and meter, set the F Stop on the camera and meter according to the depth of field required (in this case f/3.5 to get lots of background blur), then take a meter reading, pointing the meter towards the brightest part of the background to get the speed setting and set up the camera with those settings.
I then use flash purely to pop some light on the subject, eliminate harsh shadows, and brighten the eyes with nice catchlights etc. The initial meter settings usually get you close to ideal. Take a test shot or two to make fine adjustments.
I'm sure there are better ways of doing this... I've only really made the transition from natural light to strobist hack this year, so I'm still learning this too.
In this photo taken last weekend, it was a very sunny mid-afternoon late spring here in Sydney. We are shooting the subjects standing in shade to get them out of the harsher ambient light.
ISO 200 ƒ/3.5 1/500 sec; Lighting was via two speedlights (ex580ii & ex430ii ) mounted in a Kacey Beauty Dish triggered via Phottix Odin in TTL mode using High Speed Synch. I believe TTL compesation was dialled back a little (-0.3).
Daddy's Home! by adoriaphotography, on Flickr
Here is another one taken on the same day, but I don't think the lighting was quite so good. It was taken just after midday so the ambient lighting was challenging. Also, being a larger group taken with a 70-200mm lens from afar, the beauty dish had to be a fair way back to be out of frame, so the light was a bit flat compare to the first image. I'm still very happy with the results though given the conditions we had to work with.
family portrait by adoriaphotography, on Flickr