For lucky owners of Summicron 40, Rokkor 40/2 CLE and Nokton 40, using them on Leica M bodies pulls 50mm framelines. These are too tight, and many people have modified their lens to pull 35mm framelines, which are almost spot on on the M8. Didn't find clear explanation on what to remove. Actually, I discovered fairly weird mods...
So here it is, hope it might be useful to some. Be aware that modified lenses will not pull 40mm framelines on CLE anymore.
RZetter wrote:
Thanks for the detailed howto Alex. How do you find the Nokton 40mm on the M8?
Frankly, I don't know yet, as I bought it 2 days ago (MC). So far, I have been impressed by construction. There is no play anywhere, hood is great, and focusing ring feels good, while on the stiff side. Short f/1.4 lenses are notorious for being challenging to focus, this one is no exception. IQ seems on the low side when compared to ZM or Leica, and bokeh is challenging to me (too busy). I bought it as a compact "trainer" (i.e. f/1.4) while I save for the real stuff, and will likely not keep it for too long.
StevenPA wrote:
What did you use to draw in the piece that got shaved off in Step 4?
I used a small square jeweler's file, going very slowly. The all thing including protection and filing took <10'. Never use Dremel tools on lenses, unless you really know what you're doing.
denoir wrote:
Why not? I thought about coding some of my ZM glass using a Dremel.
Dremel turn so fast that the slightest error always ends up in really bad looking marks. Unless you train on scrap several times and protect lens parts w/ gaffer tape, I wouldn't do it. In your case, protecting the lens around the stencil should be fairly easy.
I've done my share of conversions (including FD 85L to EOS) and with the exception of drilling holes, almost always use jeweler's files and sandpaper. Slower but much safer, especially when working on expensive lenses.
I agree about using a file. It may take longer but the end result is usually cleaner looking.
BTW, if anyone is interested in a Rokkor 40/2 - I have one from my CLE, which isn't getting used anymore, so I might as well sell it.
AlexTokyo wrote:
Dremel turn so fast that the slightest error always ends up in really bad looking marks. Unless you train on scrap several times and protect lens parts w/ gaffer tape, I wouldn't do it. In your case, protecting the lens around the stencil should be fairly easy.
I've done my share of conversions (including FD 85L to EOS) and with the exception of drilling holes, almost always use jeweler's files and sandpaper. Slower but much safer, especially when working on expensive lenses.
Probably not. In the case of the 40/1.4 Nokton, at least, the mount has grooves that integrate with the helicoid. You could check, but I assume the f/1.2 functions similarly.
AlexTokyo wrote:
For lucky owners of Summicron 40, Rokkor 40/2 CLE and Nokton 40, using them on Leica M bodies pulls 50mm framelines. These are too tight, and many people have modified their lens to pull 35mm framelines, which are almost spot on on the M8. Didn't find clear explanation on what to remove. Actually, I discovered fairly weird mods...
So here it is, hope it might be useful to some. Be aware that modified lenses will not pull 40mm framelines on CLE anymore.
Thanks, Alex! I realize this thread is almost 15 years old but if your still out there, thank you. It worked like a charm and now pulls up the 35mm lines on my M2.
