jasoncallen Offline Upload & Sell: Off
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Any guidebook by the ASC (American Society of Cinematographers) for DPs (Directors of Photography) should have all of the tips you need in order to get smooth camera moves, steady lock down pans, insight on appropriate shutter speeds to avoid "stobing" motion in the frame, etc.
My 5 minute film school class for you... watch this video first (it's about panasonic gear, but it's universal to all cameras with CMOS sensors that have bayer interpolation... i.e. our Nikon DSLRs):
-Pan VERY slowly if you're panning at all. As I say above, per the ASC's recommendations, you should allow an object about 15 seconds to cross the frame when shooting at 28mm focal length (or equivalent 18mm on DX/APS-C sized sensors/Super35mmfilm) in order to avoid getting the jello. If you're shooting at a normal perspective (45-50mm), 25 seconds to pan a 90 degree arc. If you're shooting at medium telephoto (85-105mm), 50 seconds to pan a 90 degree arc. Shooting long lens (200mm-300mm)? It should take you nearly 100 seconds to pan a 90 degree arc. This usually requires at minimum a steady set of tripod legs (3:1 ratio of what it can hold to what it is currently holding... i.e. 15 lb capacity for a 5 lb load of equipment), a heavily-damped fluid head (at least a 2:1 ratio of capacity to load), and VERY steady hands.
-If you have to whip-pan, or pan more quickly than recommended, use a rack zoom to hide a camera move... i.e. start with a tight shot, and as the subject passes left to right, zoom out while panning with them.
-Lean into the action. If you know a sensor has rolling shutter issues, plan your shot accordingly. See the free panasonic link (above) again for examples of how to pull this off.
-USE STABILIZATION! DO NOT, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, SHOOT HANDHELD UNLESS YOU HAVE TO!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111!!!11one!!!!! This does not mean "Rely on VR"! Seriously, use a tripod, a steadicam, a dolly/glidetrack, or at least a bloody shoulder rig before you complain about the image being wobbly! haha We're all guilty of shooting handheld... but you immediately lose your license to b*tch about the quality of a shot if you choose to shoot freehand instead of using the proper tools and technique. This is what I use at work if I want to get a not-locked-down shot, and even then you still get wobble and bobble:
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http://www.creativevideo.co.uk/public/product_images/altimage/22%2009%202006steadicam_flyer_1.jpg |
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