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ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread
  
 
sebboh
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p.75 #1 · p.75 #1 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


R.Young wrote:
Great shots sebboh! What aperture?


thanks, the 58mm shots are both at f/2, the 200mm shot is wide open all on the NEX-7.

here is a few shots from the 17/4 brad was kind enough to let me borrow. on portra 160 film:







i'm afraid i'm not much of a wide angle guy, so shooting it was a bit awkward for me.



Dec 11, 2012 at 05:19 PM
Phillip Reeve
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p.75 #2 · p.75 #2 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


thanks @mortyb, Hawkan, joakim, R.Young and Bif!










Dec 12, 2012 at 10:14 AM
wfrank
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p.75 #3 · p.75 #3 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


Nice work people. This gets me excited over the 58/1.2 once again.

Phillip, how did/do you go about when it comes to infinity? I've been on my way to grind my retainer ring for many months now. Finally last week when I meant to screw it off to grind the ring in safe distance from the lens. But found it seem like a full section of rear glass group will be screwed off. So I stopped as I am very novice at lens surgery. Now I am leaning towards dremel it on the lens with a lot of tape instead.



Dec 12, 2012 at 10:36 AM
twoeye
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p.75 #4 · p.75 #4 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


Another great set Phillip!

wfrank wrote:
Phillip, how did/do you go about when it comes to infinity? I've been on my way to grind my retainer ring for many months now. Finally last week when I meant to screw it off to grind the ring in safe distance from the lens. But found it seem like a full section of rear glass group will be screwed off. So I stopped as I am very novice at lens surgery. Now I am leaning towards dremel it on the lens with a lot of tape instead.


I grinded down the retainer ring myself, and it is rather easy if you unscrew the rear lens group like you did. I then placed a sanding paper flat down on a table and with the lens group held at an angle to keep the rear lens from touching the sanding paper, it was easy to sand down the retainer ring without harming the rear element. Still canīt focus to infinity though, but I think my 5DMkII has less clearance than average.



Dec 12, 2012 at 11:23 AM
cogitech
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p.75 #5 · p.75 #5 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


It is common knowledge (or was, anyway - somehow it seems to be forgotten) that the vast majority of 5Dc and 5DII mirrors will still collide with the Rokkor, even after the rear element retaining ring has been reduced. A FEW of these cameras have a large enough tolerance that a FEW people have reported that reducing the Rokkor RERR was enough.

The mirror mod is far easier than people think it is, and it enables the camera to accept much more than a modded Rokkor...



Dec 12, 2012 at 02:15 PM
R.Young
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p.75 #6 · p.75 #6 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


What is the best way? I'm toying with the idea of shaving my 5D2 mirror for my Contax 35 1.4


Dec 12, 2012 at 02:45 PM
Bifurcator
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p.75 #7 · p.75 #7 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


cogitech wrote:
The mirror mod is far easier than people think it is...


What does it entail specifically? A high-speed grinder? mirror removal? Write out the steps or link it us up to a tute that's sane.




Dec 12, 2012 at 02:53 PM
cogitech
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p.75 #8 · p.75 #8 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


Bifurcator wrote:
What does it entail specifically? A high-speed grinder? mirror removal? Write out the steps or link it us up to a tute that's sane.



Disclaimer: If you lack common sense and/or handy-eye coordination, don't even begin this project. I take no responsibility for any loss or damages incurred by someone who performs this procedure. Having said that, if you are a "handy" type of person (ie. your wife doesn't have to hang pictures and install light fixtures for you) then you can probably do this quite safely. If I can do it half drunk...

Materials/Tools list:

- 2" wide masking tape (the good, sticky kind, not that stuff that peels off too easily)
- variable speed drill
- grinding stone (or 2 or 3, as they can get clogged)
- vacuum cleaner with hose attachment
- safety glasses
- dust mask

Procedure:

1) Use masking tape to lift and hold mirror in a semi-swung position close to the mouth of the camera. Ensure that the tape is stuck completely and leave NO GAPS AT ALL. (Yes, I am YELLING).

2) Use many more strategically placed pieces of masking tape to surround and seal the mirror (leave exposed the edge of the mirror to be removed) and COMPLETELY SEAL OFF THE MOUTH OF THE CAMERA. How much mirror you grind off is completely up to you, but between 1 and 2 mm is a good ballpark.

3) Repeat step 2) building layers of masking with the goal of making it completely impermeable - it does double duty as a very secure means of holding the mirror completely stationary during the grinding process. This is BY FAR THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP (Yes, still yelling).

4) Attach the grinding stone to the variable speed drill, adjust the speed to low RPM (high speed will increase all associated risks and has no benefit other than time - if you don't have the time to do this right, don't do it at all). I do not recommend the use of a Dremel or other such high-speed device.

5) Arrange the vacuum cleaner close enough that you can tape the nozzle of the hose as close to the camera mouth as possible, or otherwise secure it in such a way that the bulk of the dust/debris will immediately be sucked into the vacuum.

6) Put your mask and safety glasses on, turn on the vacuum cleaner, then proceed to grind the edge of the mirror, ensuring that the rotation of the grinding stone is in-line with the length of the edge. In other words, do not grind across the edge or you will risk chipping or other mirror/camera damage. Regulate pressure on the grinding stone such that it removes material but does not put excessive force on the mirror. The tape will hold it very well (if you did 2 and 3 above right) but unreasonable pressure will result in disaster.

7) Check your work often.

8) When the mirror has been reduced sufficiently, use the vacuum to clean the mouth area completely (perhaps a dry paint brush would be handy here) and then slowly and carefully remove all the masking tape. Try to hold the camera in such a way that any remaining particles fall away from the mouth during this step.

9) Inspect the mirror chamber, shutter blades, etc. for signs of dust/debris. If you did steps 2 and 3 correctly, there should be no dust/debris whatsoever.

10) Enjoy your mirror-modded camera.

* Optional. Drink 3 strong gin & tonics (or other favourite drink) before beginning




Dec 12, 2012 at 04:30 PM
cogitech
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p.75 #9 · p.75 #9 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


BTW, I am planning to modify my other 5Dc mirror at some point and when I do I will take photos and/or video to document the process. So, if you are patient and feel you might benefit from photos/video, then wait a while.


Dec 12, 2012 at 05:35 PM
R.Young
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p.75 #10 · p.75 #10 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


hmm, some serious work there. Might have to pass on it as don't have the space to do such a job. Shame as my 35 1.4 is taking a beating from the mirror so I might just have to adjust infinity back a bit so it can never contact.


Dec 12, 2012 at 05:42 PM
 

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Bifurcator
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p.75 #11 · p.75 #11 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


Thanks cogitech!

Seems simple enough! What grit of stone is optimal in your opinion?


BTW if indeed a person chooses to use a dremel check OFTEN the temperature of the mirror and don't apply much pressure! Jelly heat syncs can work here as well. As most will know it's temperature unevenness which so easily can crack or break glass! Applying significant pressure from a high-speed stone can turn a small (uneven) area of glass red-hot in under 2 or 3 seconds! I've made this mistake while working on glass with a dremel at only about 5,000rpm. It wasn't a camera mirror tho...


Looking forward to the pictorial cogitech!

Thanks again!



Dec 12, 2012 at 06:13 PM
cogitech
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p.75 #12 · p.75 #12 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


Bifurcator wrote:
Thanks cogitech!

Seems simple enough! What grit of stone is optimal in your opinion?


I don't know exactly the grit of the stones I used, but I am almost positive it was http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/PowerToolAccessories/SandingPolishingAccessories/PRD~0544853P/Mastercraft+Grinding+Stone%2C+Square+Edge.jsp?locale=en


BTW if indeed a person chooses to use a dremel check OFTEN the temperature of the mirror and don't apply much pressure! As most will know it's temperature unevenness which so easily can crack or break glass! Applying significant pressure from a high-speed stone can turn a small (uneven) area of glass red-hot in under 2 or 3 seconds! I've made this mistake while working on glass with a dremel at only about 5,000rpm. It wasn't a camera mirror tho...

I run about 1200rpm when mirror-modding.


Looking forward to the pictorial cogitech!

Thanks again!


It could be a while. Probably in the new year... Hopefully before spring.



Dec 12, 2012 at 06:41 PM
sebboh
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p.75 #13 · p.75 #13 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


thanks for the tutorial paul! is the mirror that difficult to remove? seems like it would be a lot easier to just take it out and trim it?

anyway, a picture – rokkor MD W 17/4 on portra at mfd wide open:







Dec 12, 2012 at 08:56 PM
R.Young
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p.75 #14 · p.75 #14 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


58 1.2


St James's Park Lake by Rob.Young, on Flickr



Dec 12, 2012 at 09:14 PM
cogitech
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p.75 #15 · p.75 #15 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


sebboh nice shot,

I've never attempted to remove the mirror, but the consensus at the time (a few years back) was that it is not supposed to be removable. Of course, they do fall off the odd 5D but as long as mine is stuck on there well, I'd rather not mess with it (other than the shave! )

Rob, excellent shot with the 58!



Dec 12, 2012 at 09:23 PM
JimBuchanan
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p.75 #16 · p.75 #16 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


sebboh wrote:
... is the mirror that difficult to remove? seems like it would be a lot easier to just take it out and trim it?


There was an early batch of 5D's that had faulty bonding of the mirror to the frame and there were cases where the mirror fell out. They improved the bonding process.

If the mirror was removed for grinding or one wanted to re-glue a loose mirror, care should be taken because if the mirror is shifted the slightest bit by a layer of adhesive, that would change the viewfinder focus calibration, which would require a re-calibration using the viewfinder shims.

If the mirror falls out and needs to be replaced, Canon only sells the 5D mirror as a mirror assembly, for about $200, plus labor.



Dec 12, 2012 at 10:58 PM
prosep
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p.75 #17 · p.75 #17 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


58 1.2








Dec 14, 2012 at 02:13 PM
crazeazn
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p.75 #18 · p.75 #18 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


I need unclog my aperture blades on my rokkor and get it to use again.


Dec 14, 2012 at 02:20 PM
R.Young
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p.75 #19 · p.75 #19 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


Do it! It's a relatively simple job, once you have it back together anyway! My aperture blades collapsed last time I took my rokkor apart for cleaning, took a while to it back together but I'd be able to do it much quicker next time


Dec 14, 2012 at 03:02 PM
alwang
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p.75 #20 · p.75 #20 · ROKKOR Image & Discussion Thread


50/1.4 MC:


mother & son by alwang, on Flickr



Dec 14, 2012 at 04:14 PM
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