only have had mirror hang on the 5D.. so far the 1DIV.. nothing at all. Mirror hang on the 5D has never effected photo.. just have to shake the cam to get the mirror to go back to normal before taking another pic.
I would very much like to use it on the 5DMkII, I just in no way want to damage the camera.
This is a very expensive item for me.
I see no marks on the mirror front, but I can almost be certain it is striking going up, as it is stuck hanging when released to reset.
Quicky before the rain, crop view, and re-sized: http://cornbread.com/~buggz/IMG_5455-resized.jpg
Shrug, looks out of focused when cropped.
I notice this lens is a LOT harder to focus than the excellent manual Mamiya's I have.
Oh, this is wide open, I forget if it's in macro mode?
I'm still trying to get the hang of focusing this lens.
It isn't as easy as the manual Mamiya's I have.
I use live view.
Do you recommend higher ISO for the reason of movement blur?
I am no where near the level of the posters here, but I have fun in learning all of this.
Seems a lot of times I get mired down in the technical parts.
Thanks!
AhamB wrote:
Nice butterfly although it's frontfocused, and you were pushing it with 1/30 there (should have raised the ISO).
buggz2k wrote:
I'm still trying to get the hang of focusing this lens.
It isn't as easy as the manual Mamiya's I have.
I use live view.
Do you recommend higher ISO for the reason of movement blur?
I am no where near the level of the posters here, but I have fun in learning all of this.
Seems a lot of times I get mired down in the technical parts.
Thanks!
I agree, this lens doesn't exactly pop into focus in most cases.
Especially with close-up/macro shots you should make sure the shutter speed doesn't get too long (1/30 is long for macro). With the high magnification, camera shake and subject motion (flower moving in the wind etc.) gets very noticeable. You can easily use ISO 200-320 on the 40D. With ISO 400 make sure you don't underexpose, otherwise it starts to get grainy. With the 5DmkII you have more room to increase ISO without much penalty.
Nice additional samples too. I don't recommend live view for handheld macros though, by the way. With your arms stretched you're much more prone to move the camera out of the point of proper focus. The focusing technique for macro is to slowly rock backward and forward to move the point of focus. You turn the focus ring basically only to change magnification. If you're left-eyed, I also recommend this:
I saw somewhere that this lens front lens group rotates on focus.
I guess this kills the use of a Cokin, or Lee filter system ?
Not that I have either filter system, but they do look appealing, though, initial cost is high.
buggz2k wrote:
I saw somewhere that this lens front lens group rotates on focus.
I guess this kills the use of a Cokin, or Lee filter system ?
Not that I have either filter system, but they do look appealing, though, initial cost is high.
Doesn't kill it, as you can rotate the Lee holder on the adapter. It just takes some time getting the focus set, and then holding the focus ring while orientating the filter holder.
Might as well throw in a cross post from the alt-image thread...
buggz2k wrote:
I saw somewhere that this lens front lens group rotates on focus.
I guess this kills the use of a Cokin, or Lee filter system ?
Not that I have either filter system, but they do look appealing, though, initial cost is high.
The front lens does rotate but "usually" in shooting landscape you're focused out at infinity plus or minus and the little bit of rotation doesn't effect the use of filter much - but you do need to pay attention to it. I use polarizers and the Lee holder on this lens very often.
You guys are the best.
I very much appreciate all of your helpful information, and patience putting up w/ me.
I really enjoy learning new stuff all the time.
Thanks!
