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Archive 2009 · pp for printing vs web

surfnron
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p.1 #1 · pp for printing vs web

I recently joined a local photo club, and their next exhibit is the first that I will be able to participate in. I've not done much printing, but have found a problem that has been with me through 2 monitors, Spyderpro 2 and now Win7 calibration.

When I get a photo the way I want it to look on screen and then print it, the prints seem to come out a little darker than they are on screen. I'm using my lab's profile, but I have not contacted the lab yet - if I don't get an answer here, that will be my next step. As I said earlier, this has been the case with 2 different monitors using a Spyderpro 2. My current monitor is a NEC MultiSync LCD 2490WUXi. I just upgraded computers and the Spyderpro is not compatible with my ver of Win7 - there is no XP mode. So I calibrated by eye using the Win7 "eyeball method". I still get prints just a little darker than what I want. I could just slightly lighten each image just before printing, but I'd prefer to fix whatever problem, (or lack of knowledge), I have.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanx,
Ron

Nov 25, 2009 at 02:45 AM

Mr Mouse
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p.1 #2 · pp for printing vs web

Are you sure your display brightness in not too high

? High brightness = dark prints...

Nov 25, 2009 at 04:19 AM

Justin Huffman
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p.1 #3 · pp for printing vs web

funny im having the exact same issue, i was thinking its due to metallic prints although you might not have printed on metallic paper. A friend said lighting in the room has a lot to do with things.

Nov 25, 2009 at 04:26 AM

JameelH
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p.1 #4 · pp for printing vs web

Yes indeed. Many monitors are too bright.

Nov 25, 2009 at 04:38 AM

R. Francois
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p.1 #5 · pp for printing vs web

said before. Your monitor is probably to bright. Also make sure you view your prints under decent light!

Nov 25, 2009 at 06:55 AM

Bernie
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p.1 #6 · pp for printing vs web

I have a tree lamp with multiple bulbs -- normal incandescent, daylight flourescent, and a blue daylight bulb that I view my prints under. Then I stick it near the window to see if I like it in all the various spectra...

Nov 25, 2009 at 04:19 PM

Bobster2
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p.1 #7 · pp for printing vs web

Before printing, I use levels to change the black output values from 0 to 20. That is because the printer prints everything below 20 as solid black. This is not unusual. Barry Haynes discusses this in his books, and I've seen it discussed elsewhere.

Nov 25, 2009 at 06:15 PM

R. Francois
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p.1 #8 · pp for printing vs web

Bobster2 wrote:
Before printing, I use levels to change the black output values from 0 to 20. That is because the printer prints everything below 20 as solid black. This is not unusual. Barry Haynes discusses this in his books, and I've seen it discussed elsewhere.

really? wow... did not know that. I have to experiment with that too

Nov 25, 2009 at 06:28 PM

Baywing
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p.1 #9 · pp for printing vs web

I had a similar issue for years using the Spyder2. I recently upgraded to the X-rite i1Display2 and things are much better. I still need to lighten the files a tad to print (my own printer) but I am much closer than with the Spyder. I hear the Spyder3 is ok, just seems like the 2 had problems.

Nov 25, 2009 at 06:53 PM

paulhodson
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p.1 #10 · pp for printing vs web

My monitor is calibrated - but I always lighten slightly for printing. I am not sure how any print can compete with a backlit monitor image.

And let's face it - prints look very different in different lighting conditions.

Nov 25, 2009 at 08:30 PM

theSuede
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p.1 #11 · pp for printing vs web

We've been very spoiled with the quality of monitors available for quite a while now. Another aspect to consider is the very differing dynamic range available to print/screen viewing. Any properly calibrated screen has a DR of roughly 500:1 (uncalibrated, often >1000:1!), the very best glossy prints have a DR of "only" 200:1. We somehow have to compensate for this in PP, and there are several different ways that we use in professional large-volume printing.

The most simple "DR-conversion" is to use a tone-mapping plugin (what is usually quite sloppily called "HDR" plugins) - at LOW correction strengths! - to lower overall DR without making the picture look "flat".

If you don't want to pay for it, and already have a full PS installed - a very simple action to record and reuse could run like this:

*Copy layer [ctrl-J]
*Lift midtones by using "curves" [ctrl-M] - input:15 > output:30
*Increase local contrast by USM, strength 20, radius 50
*Change blending mode to "Lighten"
*Right-click the copy-layer, and chose "Blending Options"
*ALT-Drag the rightmost arrow in the "This Layer" slider almost all the way to the dark left. This should SPLIT the light arrow, if you start the click just to the left of the original arrow.
*Adjust layer transparency until it looks "right", merge down.

This is quite quick, and one of the easier ways to boost the shadows without affecting the midtones in a way that's really bothering.

Do NOT "fix" the issue by just lifting the black-point. If everything below 20 is plugged black (even when viewed under good light/indirect sunlight), your printer profile is shot. It shouldn't do that. If you print at a mail-order printshop or in a local printshop (both being out of your influence) then you may have to do a testprint to find where their profile cuts off to plugged black - and compensate your own blacks to a point just below this. This is unfortunate, as it lowers overall quality of the print, by lowering the available number of levels usable in the input picture - the "tonal resolution".

Nov 25, 2009 at 09:08 PM


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