The Cokin filter won't work with fullframe at 14mm, but I do use the X-pro holder and tape the big Schneider to the very front of it, then slide the entire rig over the lens until the front of the lens shade just touches the glass filter. I have some velcro taped around the back of the lens hood and also inside the X-pro holder so that it will all stay put. I also have some black tape along the back of the holder to block light from hitting and reflecting the back of the filter. It is all quite large, expensive, and clumsy, but does work.
Thom Hogan says that the 10-24 Nikon works from about 15MM up and will accept filters. I would take your FF camera to a neighborhood store and give it a test. Good quality (not as sharp as the 14-24....but not a slouch either) and cost less.
roman.johnston wrote:
Thom Hogan says that the 10-24 Nikon works from about 15MM up and will accept filters. I would take your FF camera to a neighborhood store and give it a test. Good quality (not as sharp as the 14-24....but not a slouch either) and cost less.
Just a suggestion.
Roman
Remember though, there is simply covering the FX frame, and there is covering the frame with a good usable image.
I tried the Tokina 11-16mm, which is great on DX, and while at 16mm it covered the FX frame just fine, no falloff at all really, the corners where mush. Center of the image was biting sharp but you could clearly see where the DX image circle fell in regards to the sharpness fall off. Just didn't work on FX, even though it technically did work on FX, if you know what I mean
Tim Ernst wrote:
The Cokin filter won't work with fullframe at 14mm, but I do use the X-pro holder and tape the big Schneider to the very front of it, then slide the entire rig over the lens until the front of the lens shade just touches the glass filter. I have some velcro taped around the back of the lens hood and also inside the X-pro holder so that it will all stay put. I also have some black tape along the back of the holder to block light from hitting and reflecting the back of the filter. It is all quite large, expensive, and clumsy, but does work.
Thanks for the Cokin info...any idea at what focal length that it won't vignette? I did a DYI holder using a the Nikon lens cap, and Cokin X and Z holders. As you point out one of the essentials is to have the filter just touching the "shade" and avoiding a open back with the holder.
I never tested to see where it would vignette - I spent a lot of money for the 14mm and would not settle for anything less than being able to use it to its fullest extent. I could just get a cheap lens and be done with it, or use the 17-35, but since it was an easy fix to use the Schneider pola there was no reason to use it any other way.
Tim Ernst wrote:
The Cokin filter won't work with fullframe at 14mm, but I do use the X-pro holder and tape the big Schneider to the very front of it, then slide the entire rig over the lens until the front of the lens shade just touches the glass filter. I have some velcro taped around the back of the lens hood and also inside the X-pro holder so that it will all stay put. I also have some black tape along the back of the holder to block light from hitting and reflecting the back of the filter. It is all quite large, expensive, and clumsy, but does work.
I looked at the link and the Schneider site. Is your filter the 6.6" x 6.6" square? If so is the amount of polarization changed by rotation of the holder or some other way?
Yes, it is square. And the weird thing is that I've never had to rotate it - max polarization always seems to be with the filter up and down as it is taped on with no rotation. I have no idea why. That is probably a good thing since there may be some vignetting in the corners if the filter were rotated.
I did discover the other day that it is possible to view a polarizer backwards (smaller, screw-on filters I'm talking about) - naturally you can only screw it on one way so will always get it correct, but I will often hold smaller filters up and rotate them to see if they do anything or not, and if I happen to have it backwards it doesn't work at all.
Thanks for the info - sound easy. I may just try hand-holding it in front of the lens and see if that does it, but if not, it'll be velcro and tape for me too. Thanks!
Sorry for the recurring questions. I went to the Filmtools site to order and there is a "sale" on Schneider filters. Two 6.6 x 6.6 polarizers are offered...linear and circular..Which one do I want?
Steve - I just checked and both of mine have been circulars, but since I don't use autofocus or autoexposure I'm not sure I really needed them. The linear might just work too if you don't need the auto stuff.
EDIT - I just realized that the filter I use is the smaller 5.650 x 5.650 version - I had the larger link in my bookmarks for some reason (at one time the larger filter was actually cheaper than the smaller one!). The larger filter might be better and help eliminate anything in the corners if you needed to rotate, I don't know for sure. I originally made this setup for a 28mm Mamiya lens on my Phase One system and it worked with it just fine.
Mine is ugly and covered with black tape. Someone noted a while ago that gaffers tape would be better than what I have been using, which is wide electric tape - the gaffers would not leave a residue. I've not had any issues and have been able to remove the black tape with no problems - a bit of alcohol would probably work anyway (for me, not the tape).
Tim Ernst wrote:
Steve - I just checked and both of mine have been circulars, but since I don't use autofocus or autoexposure I'm not sure I really needed them. The linear might just work too if you don't need the auto stuff.
EDIT - I just realized that the filter I use is the smaller 5.650 x 5.650 version - I had the larger link in my bookmarks for some reason (at one time the larger filter was actually cheaper than the smaller one!). The larger filter might be better and help eliminate anything in the corners if you needed to rotate, I don't know for sure. I originally made this setup for a 28mm Mamiya lens on my Phase One system and it worked with it just fine....Show more →
Thanks...I ordered the 6.6 x 6.6 linear, will see how it works.
To most people, any photographic item that cost over $500 is a specialized tool. In a world where most people's point and shoot was on sale for $399 at Best Buy if even that much, $1800 lenses are just crazy. Always fun when people ask questions like that and then you really blow their mind when you tell them that $1800 was just for the lens, the body was another $4500
Unless of course they look a bit scary, then you tell them the camera was $30 at a garage sale and you talked them down to $20
