When I see the bat on ball shot, the volleyball bump where the vball is touching the hands etc. I just shake my head
When I first started shooting an 8.5 (wtf is the .5 for anyways) I got laughed at here by the old guy at the old photo shop. He showed me some of his soccer pics he took with his 5D. Timing was flawless, headers, kicks, etc.
I did notice over the summer that my batting timing in baseball was getting better and that once or twice I got the bat on ball shot and that more often than not a burst would include the ball in the frame.
So finally in AI servo mode isn't the first shot in a frame often out of focus? So do I need to be able to time my burst for the 2nd frame?!?
First off, the 1-series Canons have a custom function that allows you to 'tell' the camera whether you want it to give priority to focus or to shutter release, and you can do this for the first shot in the burst, and for the shots following the first. So, given that focus matters, this would typically be set to focus priority, and what this means is that the shutter will not fire unless and until focus is acquired. Doesn't necessarily mean focus will be acquired where you want it to be, but the shutter will not release without focus.
Second, timing the second shot in your burst? That's crazy talk ! One thing to learn is that you should do your best to achieve focus and track your subject BEFORE you start shooting. This combined with the above-mentioned custom function will help to assure that when you do fire off your well-timed shot, it'll be in focus.
And yes, timing is more important than 10fps, but there certainly are situations where your chances are increased with the higher frame rate, such as when a running back is breaking through the line and you simply don't know what's going to happen and thus can't anticipate THE defining moment of the run. (Bat on ball, on the other hand, HAS to be a matter of timing. You're basically trying to do the same thing the batter is doing, which is anticipate the right moment to make contact with the picth.)
As always Russ, your comments are spot on, thanks again... I need to review my aiservo v aifocus understanding and won't ask you to explain to me something that is in my manual.
happy shooting and you are one of a handful of shooters on here that seem to have incredibly lucky timing
Yep... if bat on ball is your goal, work on one shot timing by watching the pitcher with your left eye, while keeping the batter through the viewfinder. By watching the pitcher's release, you'll quickly learn how much to hesitate to catch the contact with the bat. But then you only have to gamble on pitch placement and wait for the batter to swing.
Also like Russ described, in football, I'll wait for the play to develop, then do a burst of 2-3. It no longer becomes a wild attempt to capture something good, its to get subtle improvements to choose from like eye contact through the facemask or if another player's arm is obstructing the main subject or the ball.
I'm always amazed at the machine gunning going on around me... I swear there's one Mom that holds down the shutter button as soon as the ball is snapped and keeps it down until the whistle blows. But if that works for her, then that's fine.
each situation is different. Different sports, action, plays, all of it require you to decide how to use the "motor drive" Running back breaking away, as many frames as I can get. Pitcher throwing a ball, a burst of 10 or so. Batter hitting a ball, 4 or 5 shots. Typically I shoot in short, controlled bursts of 3 or 4 images, but that also changes when introducing strobes and remotes.
If you only utilize the burst by mashing it or single shot or in just one way, you are not using all the capabilities the cameras have to offer.
Carl Auer wrote:
If you only utilize the burst by mashing it or single shot or in just one way, you are not using all the capabilities the cameras have to offer.
Agreed. I get my best emotion shots by bursting after the "play" but I get my best timing shots waiting in anticipation. I will say though... that my camera stays in Continous High just in case. I use AF-ON for focusing and I can get a "single" shot with quick press of shutter release... or I can get a 2-3 shot burst by pressing a little longer on shutter release... or I can blaze through a CF card by holding down.
First off, the 1-series Canons have a custom function that allows you to 'tell' the camera whether you want it to give priority to focus or to shutter release, and you can do this for the first shot in the burst, and for the shots following the first. So, given that focus matters, this would typically be set to focus priority, and what this means is that the shutter will not fire unless and until focus is acquired. Doesn't necessarily mean focus will be acquired where you want it to be, but the shutter will not release without focus....Show more →
Yeah, right. Set this option and then point a 1-series at the ground and press the shutter. It will blaze away at 8+ FPS of completely out of focus frames.
There's a big difference between the camera "thinking" something is in focus and something "actually" being in focus.
clarence3 wrote:
I'm always amazed at the machine gunning going on around me... I swear there's one Mom that holds down the shutter button as soon as the ball is snapped and keeps it down until the whistle blows. But if that works for her, then that's fine.
Agree. There is one guy I know who shoots the baseball pitcher by holding down the shutter from the start of the windup till the ball is hit. It's great for making animated GIFs but otherwise is a waste of frames.
p.1 #10 · One frame at a time or maching gun style
timing is everything. for VB when learning the 1dmk3 i went from being a button masher and just holding it down to grabbing 1 to 3 shots on a hit. it just takes time to learn, not just the game but the camera and the lens. I notice that when i go switch between lenses there is normally a 1/2 set series that are not quite right while i adjust to the focusing speed of the lens.
p.1 #15 · One frame at a time or maching gun style
For me .... I tend to be more on the 2nd and occasionally 3rd option... When you're competing against 5-8 shooters a game who are in the relatively same spot as you it's the tiniest detail that can get your photo used over someone else's. And sometimes you just can't anticipate something happening...
A recent example: I was shooting a running back flying towards the end zone. A touchdown would pull the team within a field goal late in the game. Instead of scoring, a defender comes hurling into the frame and pops his helmet right on the ball. Defense recovers and ballgame is all but over. Probably the defining moment of the entire year. I wouldn't have gotten this shot if I wasn't already 4 or 5 frames deep in a burst. It was pure luck, but defined the game and the play that all but finished the team's year. My shot is of the ball just leaving the running back's hand as the defender pummels him.
So for me..I shoot in 4-8 frame bursts most, but when needed will fire through the buffer on jube or last-second shot or when action is hot and heavy on a fumble (football) or loose ball (baskeball).
p.1 #17 · One frame at a time or maching gun style
It's all situational ... mostly 2-3 frame short bursts for peak action .... buffer filling rips on game-breaking plays and ensuing jube as needed .... like everything else ... there is a time and a place for every style of technique .... recognizing when to apply those techniques is the key ...
p.1 #18 · One frame at a time or maching gun style
butchM wrote:
It's all situational ... mostly 2-3 frame short bursts for peak action .... buffer filling rips on game-breaking plays and ensuing jube as needed .... like everything else ... there is a time and a place for every style of technique .... recognizing when to apply those techniques is the key ...
! One thing to learn is that you should do your best to achieve focus and track your subject BEFORE you start shooting. This combined with the above-mentioned custom function will help to assure that when you do fire off your well-timed shot, it'll be in focus.