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PowerShiftz02G Offline Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #1 · Alyssa and relfector question Hello FM. This is Alyssa. I've posted a few pictures of her before a long time ago but im hoping i improved from last time a bit. This was my first real shoot ever so go easy haha. Shots were taken with a D40 with 50mm F/1.8 lens But anyway i noticed a couple things wrong right off the bat. - she has the same poses for almost all the pictures but that is my fault. That is something i need to study and work on. - Shadows are Horrible. I really need a reflector? Flash? Im not sure. I hear the bigger the reflector the better. What size is considered big? and whats a decently priced reflector? - Also i do not have a calibrated monitor so forgive me if the colors are off. that is something i need to still invest in. any C/C is welcome. this was more of an experimental shoot. 1. 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Nov 19, 2009 at 04:37 AM

alfonse Offline Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #2 · Alyssa and relfector question Greetings, I like #4 the best, but I'm not qualified to critique your pictures. I would say your shadows are tough, just like you already know. Try shooting earlier in the morning, or later in the evening when the sun is not so high, or maybe find some good places in the shade Here is a link to some good information that Steady provided awhile back. Good suggestions regarding reflectors. i still need to follow Steady's advice. http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/816338 Nov 19, 2009 at 01:58 PM

tifster Offline Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #3 · Alyssa and relfector question I like the poses. You're right that the shadows are bad, they pretty much ruined the shoot IMO. Some of the BWs look okay even with the harsh shadows. Anything big and white (or maybe silver) will work fine for a reflector. Beyond that, I think it's mostly about convenience, durability, and maybe multi-use. The only thing I've ever used is a 4ft x 4ft "foam core" available from the craft shop, but it's a PITA to take anywhere. Alternatively, a fill flash could help with the shadows, but I haven't really done much of that. --Paul Nov 19, 2009 at 02:12 PM

jamphan Offline Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #4 · Alyssa and relfector question A reflector would definitely help. Also if you don't have a reflector simply take your hot shoe mounted flash and point it directly at the subject. Dial your exposure comp on your flash down to around 1.3 to 2, you will have to experiment. I do that quite a bit and it really helps plus it puts a nice catch light in their eye. Nov 19, 2009 at 02:27 PM

cwarburton Offline Upload & Sell: On p.1 #5 · Alyssa and relfector question Is that Cranbrook? Nov 19, 2009 at 02:40 PM

John Larkin Offline Upload & Sell: On p.1 #6 · Alyssa and relfector question A reflector on a bright day like this can be blinding and very uncomfortable for your subject. An on camera flash would most likely be in HSS mode due to a shutter speed faster than your camera's max sync speed. This means unless you are quite close to your subject, the on camera flash will have little chance of filling in the harsh shadows. When ever possible, rather than using a reflector, I will use just the inner diffuser disc of my 42" 5-in-1 reflector/diffuser set. Not to bounce light, but to soften the sun light, by holding it over the subject and blocking the direct sun light. Of course it helps to have a second set of hands for this. Nov 19, 2009 at 03:29 PM

PowerShiftz02G Offline Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #7 · Alyssa and relfector question thanks everyone. great advice so far. yes that was Cranbrook. i love that school! Nov 19, 2009 at 03:30 PM

TobinJD Offline Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #8 · Alyssa and relfector question PowerShiftz, I am very new as well, and have limited kit. This is a set up that I have had success with. 1. Diffuser in the sun line on a clamp stand (if there isn't a second set of hands) 2. Off camera speed light fill diffused/ No one has touched on it, but time of day will help allot with the shadows. Direct afternoon sunlight is tough always. My limited ,02 worth. Hope it helps Nov 19, 2009 at 03:48 PM

jefferies1 Online Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #9 · Alyssa and relfector question A reflector is not the problem. The main problem is you did not look at your light. If you would have looked you would see exactly what you shot. Closed eyes, dark shadows and lots of other problems. Move the model to a place where she actually looks good in the light. What you see is what you get in ambiant light so stop and think about it before you start shooting. If in a sunny area at least put the sun away from her face, That means turn her back to the sun for a nice hair light look and then her face will be smooth and eyes will be open. Then you could fill with a reflector or on camera flash turned down -2 so only a touch will fill the required areas. In see lots of shade you could have use in the photos. If you learn to see lighting you can shoot any time of day but it is always easier when the sun is at an angle. Late afternoon to early evening. If you must shoot in direct sun bring a large difissuser panel to make shade and turn that harsh light soft. Still a lot more work than moving the model a few feet. Nov 19, 2009 at 03:58 PM

PowerShiftz02G Offline Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #10 · Alyssa and relfector question thanks for the C/C Jeff you are right, i need to learn to see the light much better. I really have no knowledge of correct angles and where a subject should be standing for the light to hit them nicely etc. I shot these at about 2:00 so your right on the light being really harsh. Yes there was ample shaded areas. Im don't understand how a reflector would work in shade though? don't we want the sun to light up her face? or are you saying use a flash in the shade? And how would i turn her back away from the sun? This would me the camera is shooting into the sun which is bad and will create glare, right? Im sorry for all the questions, im am a complete Newb at this. Nov 19, 2009 at 05:33 PM

E M P Offline Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #11 · Alyssa and relfector question In the shade you often don't need a reflector. The ambient light is diffused and bounces around enough to fill in the shadows. Place your subject in the shade and you'll see right away that the light is more even all around. Also, a reflector works even in the shade; it will just be a more subtle effect. Sit your subject in the shade and hold a white or silver reflector to the side of her face (or have an assistant hold it), just barely out of the frame. You'll see that side of her face brighten a bit. This is often helpful if you need just a touch more light in the eyes (a common occurence). Reflectors also can add catchlights in the eyes, which helps make the subject appear more alert and interested. Lastly, about shooting with the sun behind the subject: each lens handles flare differently. You'll have to experiment to find out how susceptible your lenses are to flare. However, usually you won't have flare unless the sun is shining almost directly into the lens. This will not happy unless it's very early morning or just before sunset -- when the sun is very low on the horizon. If you shoot, say, 4 pm, the sun will be high enough not to cause flare in your lens. So yes, face your subject away from the sun and let the sun shine towards you. The sunlight will create a "rim light" around the outline of your subject's head and body, which will be very attractive (although you will need some kind of reflector or flash to light up the face a bit). Alternatively, if your lens is really sensitive to flare or if the sun is very low on the horizon, you can put it off to the side but still behind your subject. This will provide a "rim light" on just one side of your subject's head, but is still enough to provide some nice lighting. Just be careful the sun is not off to the side enough to hit the side of her cheek unevenly. Generally speaking, I will not schedule shoots between 11 and 3. If I absolutely must fit a shoot in during that time, I will shoot almost totally in the shade. I NEVER shoot with the sun shining into my subject's face, no matter what time of the day (although some photographers do -- it really depends on your style). Nov 19, 2009 at 07:36 PM

PowerShiftz02G Offline Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #12 · Alyssa and relfector question Great write up. Thanks so much! Nov 20, 2009 at 12:16 AM

cgardner Offline Dedicated FM Upload & Sell: Off p.1 #13 · Alyssa and relfector question Dark eye sockets are a result of the key light being shaded by the brow because the light is coming from a high angle. The same problem occurs in direct sun and open shade if the light comes from above. The solution is quite simple: raise the face into the light so it reaches the eyes. That will change the angle of the face to the camera so you will need to get the camera higher. Bring along an ladder. Adding fill from a reflector or flash will put the same amount of light on the brightly lit parts of the face so that's really not a solution to the problem; the highlights will get blown and the eyes will still be darker than the cheeks and forehead. In direct sun using the sun as rim light and keeping it off the front of the subject entirely will allow flash to INDEPENDENTLY lift the shadow side without overlapping the ambient highlights, which should be kept under clipping using shutter speed. As noted above a person standing and looking straight ahead with back to the sun will usually have shaded eyes, not as dark as in direct sun but darker than the cheeks. So its is also necessary to get the eyes up into the fill of the skylit before adding flash. It is also important to realize the flash will be adding HIGHLIGHTS on the face over the fill from the sky the subject is facing and in therefore acting as the KEY light, not fill. So the flash must be positioned as a key light over the head of the subject to create a natural looking highlight pattern. The parts of the face not highlighted by the flash will remain in the fill from the skylight. The shaded side of a face typically 3 stops darker than the sunny side before flash is added, which is a harsh 8:1 ratio. If lighter shadows are desired it will be necessary to use two flashes in an overlapping pattern of key over fill, just as indoors. The roles of the ambient light and flash become: Direct sun: Accent / backlight Skylight: Base foundation of fill, also lights the background Flash #1: Located over camera as fill to make the sky shadows lighter Flash #2: Used off axis to create highlights over the sky+flash fill. For full face view place about 45 degrees from nose vertically in-line with nose for butterfly pattern. For oblique pose place 45 from nose on far side of the face for short lighting. The net effect is similar to the results produced with four lights indoors. The light from the sky is quite soft and wraps around the subject so you will discover that smaller modifiers than those used indoors will work quite well. Direct flash can also work to produce soft lighting (which is controlled with fill) but will tend to create specular "hot" spots on damp/oily skin. Chuck Nov 20, 2009 at 02:32 AM

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