I don't get to shoot surfing since sadly- I don't live near the ocean, but I do get to shoot a lot of waterskiing, I also shoot a 1D2, but I usually use the 70-200 2.8 if I'm in the boat or I have a canon 400L 2.8 that I shoot from the shore. I might have to look at getting the 135. It might be perfect from the boat.
Sandy's. No place else has a shore break like that. Short and brutal and totally deceptive to the unfamiliar. Great shot.
EDIT: Were you there when Obama was there? I wished I could've caught that, or at least the look on the Secret Service people's faces when they saw him going into that shorebreak...
My experience with Sandy's is the wave you show here usually breaks in 1-3 feet of water. When the wave thickens up like that, there's a good chance its a shallow one. I imagine that poor local boy was spitting out sand after dabbling with Sandy's rules of "impact inertia" I fell prey to them myself a few times.
No worries Greg. I only wish I could be there with you to photograph the guys (and girls, by the way) in those great waves. Keep the good work coming. You're doing a great job. Every time you post one of these you bring back fond memories of my youth in Hawaii.