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Where's all the CyberCommander's? Go to previous topic Go to next topic
RDKirk
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p.4 #1 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


Alvaro3663 wrote:
I got my CC today.

After some initial panicking I managed to start figuring it out. So far the problem that I encountered is that when I change to a setting with lower lights, the dumping of the excess of energy is going very very slow. Any ideas?


Is it slower than the excess energy is dumped with the same decrease manually? I had long ago adopted the habit of just hitting the "Fire" button of my Radio Remote-1 when decreasing power, and I'd been doing that with the CC as well, so I hadn't noticed that it dumped any slower.


Nov 03, 2009 at 12:12 PM
tamara328
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p.4 #2 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


Alvaro..this one got me so I'll throw it out there. Unless you read the online instructions you wouldn't find this in the manual that comes with the CC.
"The receiver outputs should be connected via the supplied telephone style cords and dummy plugs should be inserted into the sync jack of the lights to disable the slave trippers."

Nov 03, 2009 at 01:21 PM
RMS956
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p.4 #3 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


tamara328 wrote:
Alvaro..this one got me so I'll throw it out there. Unless you read the online instructions you wouldn't find this in the manual that comes with the CC.
"The receiver outputs should be connected via the supplied telephone style cords and dummy plugs should be inserted into the sync jack of the lights to disable the slave trippers."


I recommend this online Cyber Commander instruction site and not the PCB one. At least until they update their paper manual.

http://www.webecool.com/


Nov 03, 2009 at 03:25 PM
Alvaro3663
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p.4 #4 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


RDKirk wrote:
Is it slower than the excess energy is dumped with the same decrease manually? I had long ago adopted the habit of just hitting the "Fire" button of my Radio Remote-1 when decreasing power, and I'd been doing that with the CC as well, so I hadn't noticed that it dumped any slower.


I sometimes do that but the models don't like to be caught by surprise by a sudden flash. Usually, when I power it down within an f-stop I just wait.

Nov 03, 2009 at 05:20 PM
Alvaro3663
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p.4 #5 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


tamara328 wrote:
Alvaro..this one got me so I'll throw it out there. Unless you read the online instructions you wouldn't find this in the manual that comes with the CC.
"The receiver outputs should be connected via the supplied telephone style cords and dummy plugs should be inserted into the sync jack of the lights to disable the slave trippers."


That is actually to prevent other lights from firing but it doesn't work to dump the excess of energy.

Nov 03, 2009 at 05:23 PM
Alvaro3663
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p.4 #6 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


RMS956 wrote:
I recommend this online Cyber Commander instruction site and not the PCB one. At least until they update their paper manual.

http://www.webecool.com/


That's a good link.

I'm looking forward for someone to put up a how-to-step-by-step video on youtube

Nov 03, 2009 at 05:24 PM
HappyCamp
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p.4 #7 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


RMS956 wrote:
I recommend this online Cyber Commander instruction site and not the PCB one. At least until they update their paper manual.

http://www.webecool.com/


That is a PCB site, though not everyone knows about it.

Nov 03, 2009 at 05:39 PM
a2rob
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p.4 #8 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


RMS956 wrote:
Paul Buff wrote:
Cell phone or point and shoot camera pouches with belt loop work good for CC. They are $5 to $20 at Walmart, etc.


Yes indeed they do make nice little unit cases. I had modded a couple for my CSRB+s as shown here along with one of two HOBDs, CST on camera and CyberCommander.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/1/24/2283141/CC%20CST%20CSRB%2B%20HOBD.jpg




Kewl Idea, headed to wally world tonight!!

Nov 03, 2009 at 07:28 PM
Kurt Chambers
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p.4 #9 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


Paul Buff wrote:
The best way to us CC is to always leave a CST on your camera. It will trigger the lights according to the CC setup. This way you don't have to take the CC off your camera to make measurements. Put it in your pocket or cell phone pouch.


Could someone elaborate on this? (I am a newb to using strobes) I just ordered the Cyber Commander and two CSRB+'s. I was under the impression the CC should simply be mounted on the camera, but I guess this strategy of keeping the CC off-camera is worthwhile to use it as a light meter? Just wondering if I should add a CST to my order (since I have to wait two weeks until my CC can ship anyway).

I've been shooting using the Nikon CLS for nearly a year now. Been wanting to make the leap to strobes, but when I caught wind of the innovative Cyber Commander/Einstein system a year ago I decided I would wait until these became available so that I would make the leap with the best new technology. I've depended on TTL thus far, so I'll now be going through the learning curve of doing everything manual. Hence, I have never used a light meter. I know that shooting digital eliminates the necessity of light metering, but it appears experienced photographers still put value in light metering. Can anyone recommend a good resource online in the form of a concise article/guide to light metering?

Here's the kit I just ordered:

- Vagabond II
- Cyber Commander
- CyberSync Battery Powered Trigger Receiver - Plus (2)
- AlienBees B800
- Set of 4 Honeycomb Grids
- 22-inch High Output Beauty Dish
- Parabolic Umbrella Silver 86" (+ PLM Front Diffuser Fabric & PLM 7-inch Reflector)
- Speed Light Foot Adapter (2)

Am I missing anything important? I'll add more AB lights and light modifiers as I can (or preferably Einstein lights when they become available). I ordered the speed light foot adapters in hope of continuing to use my SB-600s with the new light setup (I'm aware I won't be able to adjust them remotely using the CC). Are speedlights sufficient in place of AB400s for hair/background lighting?

I know that posts like mine which indicate inexperience/naivety tend to earn rolling eyes and snide remarks, but I'll appreciate any information anyone can share. I am proud of the work I've accomplished thus far using only speedlights, and I look forward to the exploration yet to begin when my new gear arrives.

Kurt Chambers
Honolulu, HI
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kurtchambers/

Nov 03, 2009 at 08:31 PM
kenyee
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p.4 #10 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


yes, it's to use it as a lightmeter (also as a backup trigger)...speedlights will work for hairlights but you don't have a modeling light to aim it...

Edited on Nov 04, 2009 at 02:24 AM · View previous versions


Nov 03, 2009 at 09:04 PM
Paul Buff
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p.4 #11 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


RDKirk wrote:
Alvaro3663 wrote:
I got my CC today.

After some initial panicking I managed to start figuring it out. So far the problem that I encountered is that when I change to a setting with lower lights, the dumping of the excess of energy is going very very slow. Any ideas?


Is it slower than the excess energy is dumped with the same decrease manually? I had long ago adopted the habit of just hitting the "Fire" button of my Radio Remote-1 when decreasing power, and I'd been doing that with the CC as well, so I hadn't noticed that it dumped any slower.

This is a good practice with any monolight system. Auto dumping from high to low power can take pretty long regardless of brand.

Nov 03, 2009 at 11:14 PM
Alan Goldstein
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p.4 #12 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


OK. This is great info. I have been waiting for an improved radio system for several years. (It was promised long ago.) I've been using the old radio system since it first came out. I have two transmitters and eight receivers. The RR1 is the main reason I use WL and ABs instead of my old Balcar units. I loved the concept as having this kind of control from the camera saved me a lot of time. (I shoot interiors so often there are many lights scattered all over the space.)

The problem with the old RR1 units is that the signal was often very weak or degraded. Many times the unit wouldn't flash even if it was close to the transmitter. I often put units outside of homes and have them aim through the windows and the RR1 system was very unreliable when used this way. So I had to supplement it with other radio sync systems often using two systems simultaneously into each light. I now find I have 4 transmitters and 15 receivers. Despite the unreliability I stuck with them.

So will this new unit work reliably when I place a flash outside of a home maybe 50 feet from the transmitter? Will it work behind a masonry and steel wall of a commercial building? My Pocket Wizzards will.

Also, while I don't know much about the new Einstein units, I wouldn't be surprised if I will want them when they do come out. So if I buy a bunch of the current receivers, what do I do with them when the Einsteins come out and have the $30 plug in receiver? (Perhaps I'll sell my 5 WL and 4 AB units too.) Will the Einstein units come out soon? If so, I won't buy the CC and receivers now but will wait.

Nov 04, 2009 at 06:14 PM
Alan Goldstein
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p.4 #13 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


On another note - I posted the following on another site to show why I recommend AB units for shooting interiors. Do I get any special credit for this Mr. Buff? ;<

I am going to recommend that you buy Alien Bee 1600s. I have been using them for about three years along with White Lightning X3200 and X2400 (no longer available.) I also have about 10 Balcar PSU 500ws and 1600ws heads and six packs (AC and battery) that I occasionally use.

I specialize in shooting interiors so this is why I recommend the Alien Bees.

1. They are small and lightweight. So you can travel with a bunch of them. Their size and shape allows you to hide them more easily than many other units. Monoblocks in general are much handier on location because every time you add a light, you are increasing power. With packs you are dividing power when you add a light. Plus connecting cords all over the place on an architectural shoot is a pain often requiring you to have several packs if the lights are going to be in various rooms. If you need one light on an upper balcony, it is a lot easier to carry an Alien Bee up a few flights of stairs than a heavy pack and head. The long shape of Profoto and many other monoblocks make them hard to shove up in a corner or hide behind a column. I have home-made reflectors for use with my Alien Bees in tight spaces. Being light weight makes them easy to boom out over a staircase or landing.

2. The Alien Bees have a radio remote control system (recently discontinued but about to be replaced by the better Cyber Commander system.) This allows me to control and adjust (in 1/10th stops) each light from the camera. A great time saver that also makes it easier to get exactly what you are after. For instance, if you have a light pointing into the room through a window from outside, do you really want to keep going outside to adjust it? In architectural usage, lights are often placed in difficult to reach locations.

http://www.alienbees.com/cybersyncplus.html

3. They are very inexpensive, well supported, and can be quickly and cheaply repaired. The flashtubes cost around $35. So if one unit gets damaged, it is no big deal to have it repaired. The inexpensive price allows you to have a lot of units so that you can do more creative lighting and also cover yourself if one goes down.

4. They are available in a variety of colors. This sounds strange but I bought all the colors because it helps in identifying them. That way I can tell my assistant to go to the "pink" one and tilt it down a little.

5. They accept Balcar reflectors, softboxes, etc. I have a bunch of these. At one time Balcar made some unique softboxes that are especially useful for interior photography. The Balcar 7" reflectors can be fitted with Lowel DP light 7" barndoors and other Lowel accessories. These banrdoors offer better control than others that I have seen from strobe manufacturers and serve double duty with my Lowel hot lights.

6. The Vagabond II battery system (which I do not have) looks like a great way to run the lights when there is no AC available or you'd have to run a cord across the scene. (This is common in bathtubs and showers.) I would have bought the Vagabond system, but I already had three Balcar battery systems and three Norman 200ws battery units. I often light the exterior of houses with these.

7. I was on one shoot and the homeowner started looking at the lights and said, "Alien Bee, that is an interesting name..."

8. They have plenty of power for shooting interiors at ISO 100 with digital cameras. I typically shoot around f8-f10 and don't have the units at full power. I can generally get f16 (ISO 100) if I need it. Of course modern cameras can be used at higher ISOs now. They are a bit more powerful than my Balcar 1600ws units that were very expensive and are much bigger and heavier. (Even though the Balcar PSU was a fairly light hybrid pack/monoblock system.) In the old days with 4x5 I needed f16-22, and I often had filters in place. So I had to multi-pop with the Balcars.

The only possible drawback I have seen with monoblocks is if you plug a bunch of them into a single AC circuit, you may trip the breaker. But you can easily carry extension cords to run to other outlets. I have tripped breakers with packs too.

The fans in the Alien Bees cool the electronics but not the flashtube/modeling light. I don't use the modeling light very often as no modeling light is very useful during the daytime on typical architectural interior shots. My Balcar lights (and some other brands) have fans that cool the electronics but also blow air onto the the flashtube and modeling bulb. This may be useful if you leave the modeling lights on all of the time and have gel filters close to the bulbs. It also may help keep the tubes cool during fast repetitive shooting over a period of time. I typically don't do that on interior projects. But this might be a limitation with the Alien Bees favoring another brand for heavy duty shooting. (Check their duty cycles.) I don't see the duty cycle listed for the Alien Bees so you might want to call them if you are concerned. The White Lightning X1600 is listed as having a duty cycle of 400 flashes per hour. I think the two units have similar electronics and specs but the X series has heavier duty construction and has an overheat warning alarm.

If you want to see some examples of my lighting, go to my web site and click on "Model Homes." My Photoshelter site also has many examples.

www.goldsteinphoto.com

Nov 04, 2009 at 06:35 PM
RDKirk
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p.4 #14 · Where's all the CyberCommander's?


With regard to using ABs and WLs on location, this is the set-up I've devised--using Vagabonds and (until now) the Radio Remote-1 for maximum portability and small footprint.

I've been using some SKB Freedom stand cases from B&H as the basis of my on-location system. What I like about the SKB Freedom case is that it loads upright like a golf bag--that gives it a small footprint in clients' homes and offices.

I call it "Shoot-n-Scoot" (taken from US Army self-propelled artillery jargon). Combined with Paul C Buff lights, remote controls, and portable power, each case forms a self-contained light unit I can wheel nearly anywhere, set up, and not touch again until I decide to wheel it to a different location.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060581205/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060579889/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4061324014/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060581781/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060581463/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060580803/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/4060581781/

Nov 04, 2009 at 07:59 PM

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