bacilonur wrote:
Hey Paul, quick question before I snap up your new BD (which, BTW, you should put a link to on your main PLM page, since that's where people are expecting it to show up):
Is the output increased considerably (more than 1/4 stop) when the deflector is removed?
And how does the overall output compare to the 11'' sports reflector?
At 10-20', there won't be a huge difference between the apparent size of an 11'' and a 22'' reflector, so I can see a sports/high output/Magnum reflector working well with that BD in a key/fill application.
Light lost by the deflector is negligible - about 2/10f. The sock drops the output by around 1 1/2 f.
The output is about 1f less than the 11R at 10', 320WS, ISO100 I get about f22 + 4/10 with 11R and about f16 + 4/10 with the high output beauty dish. The standard beauty dish is, I believe, a bit under f11.
The shadow softening and size of catchlights will be twice as great with the 22" vs the 11"
cineski wrote:
Paul, any plans to offer the center disk as a frosted glass piece rather than an opaque metal one?
I would if I could find a suitable vendor.
Very much narrower. The point of 1f falloff on the 22 High Output beauty dish is at 45° (22.5° each side of center), The -1f point on the original white beauty dish without sock is about 150° (75° each side of center). 45° yields about a 100" circle at 10' thus can light a model head to toe easily.
With the sock on the HO dish the pattern is on the order of 140° . . . about 160° on the white dish with sock.
As I mentioned before, one cannot accurately measure angle of angles this wide against a flat wall because at a 90° coverage angle with the light 10' from a flat wall the center of the pattern is 10' from the light and the 90° point is 14' from the light. Thus the 90° point (45° each side of center) will measure -2f because of inverse square law light propagation. We actually use a curved, calibrated, board with a 10' arc for accurate measurements.
Because the 22" Beauty dish is rather shallow with regard to its diameter a good bit of the light from the flashtube fails to strike the outer edges of the dish so appears as unfocused spill light. Thus the pattern outside the 45° beamwidth is very feathered and extends out to around 100°. This is very useful for most shots because it eliminates the "spotlight" look - sharp cutoff outside the primary pattern. If you want the spotlight effect, for Hollywood style lighting, a honeycomb grid will accomplish that very nicely. We are currently testing grid samples down to about 12°. They produce an absolute cutoff and light about a 36" circle with very hard edges from 10', with zero spill.
I am taking a lot of test shots of all configurations of the Beauty Dish and PLM over the weekend and, if Fred doesn't yank them, will post links to them next week.
All reflectors like the beauty dish depend on the flash being a bare bulb type, and the flashtube has to be in exactly the right position in the reflector in order to get the correct light pattern. Portable speedlights just aren't very suitable.
Paul, thanks for the feedback. I just thought it would be nice to use my AB softbox and BD with portable speedlights also. It comes in handy outdoors in some occasions.
it has a almost flat bottom and the sides come off that base at a angle but are almost straight unlike the old white model which is curved (fyi - i do not have the old model) for some reason I thought it was curved similar to the old white model. To me it looks a lot like the standard 7" reflector on major roids.
the 'direct-light blocker' is very interesting but i don't think i like the design. It is a metal disk that you attach to a rod with a screw when you get it then it is held in place with that rod thru a hole on the bd like a umbrella. I don't think i will have much or any use for the bd without the 'direct-light blocker' in place so i would have liked one that was permantly attached. The interesting thing is in a few seconds you can put it on or remove it. I would assume it would work well as a sports reflector without the 'direct-light blocker' but i just don't see myself using it in that way.
They are offering these at a discount due to some light scratches on the back and appear to be a great bargain as the scratches are minimal and the working side is perfect. Over all i am really liking the way it looks and the cost but we'll see how it works out for me when i get it set up and i guess that is all that really matters.
I am going to try and get some shots with it right away because i may order more if they still have them at the discount
i should get mines today as well aong with 86" PLM. im no expert though and wont be able to test it out until saturday but ill post some samples if possible
it has a almost flat bottom and the sides come off that base at a angle but are almost straight unlike the old white model which is curved (fyi - i do not have the old model) for some reason I thought it was curved similar to the old white model. To me it looks a lot like the standard 7" reflector on major roids.
the 'direct-light blocker' is very interesting but i don't think i like the design. It is a metal disk that you attach to a rod with a screw when you get it then it is held in place with that rod thru a hole on the bd like a umbrella. I don't think i will have much or any use for the bd without the 'direct-light blocker' in place so i would have liked one that was permantly attached. The interesting thing is in a few seconds you can put it on or remove it. I would assume it would work well as a sports reflector without the 'direct-light blocker' but i just don't see myself using it in that way. ...Show more →
Completely wrong analysis of the shape. The sides are are a parabola truncated by the base. This is the only way to make a shallow, yet focused reflector. The surface is strongly textured to yield a smoothly feathered directional beam. I f you attempt a dish much bigger than 22" you benefit by also truncate the sides of the parabola ala Mola. But then you end up with annular rings as catchlights.
Unlike the classic white BD, the HO Silver dish works very well without the light blocker for one look, and with the blocker for a different look. The blocker is not needed with the sock. Putting on the blocker and positioning where you want it takes at least 5-10 seconds.
these were quick shots so take it easy ..... i do think they offer a nice idea for the kind of highlights you will be able to get with this. I only mounted this quick to a regular stand but it really needs to go on a boom or arm - won't get around to that for a couple of days
I'm looking forward to trying out your new beauty dish. It'll be my first such modifier.
I've had the pleasure of trying out your new 64" white parabolic, and I'm looking forward to learning more about each new modifier. My primary modifier in the studio has typically been a seven-foot Photoflex OctoDome, driven by a B800, but as of now will be powered by an X1600.
I'm in soggy Georgia and am having to fight water in my basement studio for the first time in eight years, so it may be a while before I'm able to work with these new modifiers in a complete studio environment.
By the way, your CyberSync transmitter, which I just received last week, makes my old PocketWizard Plus seem unwieldy. Way to go on a simple, minimalist design!
