p.5 #1 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
Smiert Spionam wrote:
Chris, your work looks great. If you were to develop some Arca slidefix plates and clamps, you could help popularize the new mount, and have the market virtually all to yourself....
you might as well. AS historically doesn't support their own product designs beyond the basics so someone needs to for it to actually become a viable product.
p.5 #2 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
Thanks for the info Chris. I think I'll be able to remove the knob from a Wimberley M-8 and use a nut instead, picked up a used one and it should work fine. I do need to start thinking about my next order with you though.
p.5 #4 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
Nice! Is your anti-twist tab the same width as the slot in RRS plates? Do the slot widths vary much from different manufacturers? It might be cheaper to make your connectors anti-twist just by having two (or three) threaded holes on each side, instead of one hole and one tab. That would create lots of flexibility with regard to where the connector is located on the rails.
p.5 #5 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
Drew
Slots in my rails are 0.218 inch and this goes only to latest products. It was not very important to keep this dimension critical since screws are turn down to about 0.2. Standard machining tolerances apply so slot could be somewhere between 0.210 to 0.225. Honestly it was not critical and i did not check them to often. Now since i do all machining myself slot is 0.216-.218. Since island on block is 0.212-214 there is no issue with connecting.
As for RRS i do not have any RRS rail left. I have to buy one of e-bay and test it.
Making a additional treaded hole was my first idea but there is no room to place additional 0.5 deep hole. We well have to use two screws length.0.5 inch and possible 3/8. This will required making 3/8 captive style screws only for this project. Moving current screw location closer to edge to make a room for additional 0.5 inch depth hole is also not possible. It will not be accessible. It will be covered by rail. I can make block much taller to make a room for additional 1/2 depth hole.
p.5 #7 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
It looks like the slot width on the RSS plates is not standarized. I measured values from 0.197" up to 0.218" on 5 different RSS plates. So the angle block may be useful on some RSS plates, but checking the slot width is in order if you want to use it with RSS. Another approach is to remove some metal from the sides of the island on the angle block with a file, which obviously messes up the finish, but in an area that is not seen when the block is installed.
And of course if you have RSS plates that you want to join, you could always consider the RSS right angle adapter, which works very well, but needs to attach to the small taped screw holes that the RSS plates have, and that Henjnar plates lack.
p.5 #8 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
Roland
1)Thank you for measurements.
2)M3 holes are only on some RRS Products( multi purpose rails ) and position is limited to mounting holes
I did try this before. Limited position location did not work for me. Also max lenght of RRS rails is 6.0 inch....i need around 8
This is why http://www.hejnarphoto.com/temp/bphead2.jpg
p.5 #10 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
AS themselves only produce a limited collection of plates at this point they make available. jumping in is rather a challenge due to the lack of variety for some. this is where someone like you could make the difference in making this system actually becoming truely viable.
p.5 #11 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
Here's what would make slidefix more viable for me:
- a compact clamp (like some you already make) comparable to the RRS mini clamp, which I could put on the RRS BH-25/Leica tripod combo that always travels with me. The clamp on the Arca P0 looks good, but I'd like an extra or two.
- decent l-brackets for a few cameras (for me, the D700). This may be a difficult design challenge, since the narrower channel means that you would likely lose access to the ports on the left side of the camera. This is more of a problem with some cameras than others (ie, cable release is more important than USB, etc.).
- decent fitted camera plates with strap loops.
- a couple of long lens plates, of two or three different lengths -- these could be the adjustable kind, with a screw in a slot to accommodate different lenses. Would need an anti-twist ridge at the back.
- a clamp/rail combo like the RRS MPR-CL would be nice, but not crucial.
- a flash shoe that fits in a slidefix clamp would be nice, but also not crucial.
p.5 #12 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
Can anyone explain why we need SlideFix? What is the advantage over the standard A/S stuff we all use?
I dumped Manfrotto because it was all proprietary and did only one thing. Why would anyone ever want to go back to such a system. (Sorry, don't mean to hijack a thread, but I am curious, especially if Chris sees any design/manufacturing/engineering advantage).
p.5 #19 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
Hello Everybody.
My 8 inch rail are back in stack. I had many inquiries about them in last couple of weeks.
Also for thous of you who woud like to use them together with 90 degree connector i did create package: Two 8 inch rails and 90 degree connector. It does reflect some discount in price compare to buying pieces separately.
Somebody was asking if i am planing to make 3/4 or 5/8 thick rails while ago.
Since i have little more machining resources i can do that currently. Any particular length ?
p.5 #20 · Hejnar Photo lens plates (ebay) any good?
hejnarphoto wrote:
Somebody was asking if i am planing to make 3/4 or 5/8 thick rails while ago.
Since i have little more machining resources i can do that currently. Any particular length ?
Ooo, I'll have to get back to you on that. I have your 12" one right now, but haven't finished my project so I don't know if it's too long, too short, or just right yet.
When I do find out, if the price is reasonable I'll definitely be down for a 5/8 or 3/4. Hopefully you'll be able to mill a series of voids in the underside to keep the weight down, like RRS MPR rails. Those are pretty light for their size. At 3/4" thick the walls can be pretty thin and still have a very stiff rail, as long as there are enough ribs across the rail to keep the clamp from deforming it.
