I have yet to see a camera that didn't have at least one hot/stuck pixel, some at low ISO and some starting at moderately high ISO. For me that makes 8 Canon DSLRs. Not a huge sampling size, but I'm confident in saying it's a fact of life with digital and nothing to worry about.
Consider shooting RAW and processing with Lightroom or Adobe RAW. They both automatically map out hot/stuck pixels.
As an aside, my new Olympus E-P1 has a pixel mapping feature. A $750 camera has it. Sure would be nice if Canon got around to providing this capability as well. That way there'd be a lot less complaints about it even though it's just one of those things you know you have to deal with in digital photography.
Oh, and I got Canon to map out some hot pixels on my 1st ever DSLR under warranty for free, so if Canon doesn't mind that you bought yours second hand and it's still within the warranty period I would think they'd do it for free too. Problem is it'll probably develop a few more as it goes along and you don't want to mess with sending it back every time you see a new one pop up.
I was shocked awhile back when I did some long night exposures with my 40D how many stuck, hot and dead pixels I had. I shoot raw and Adobe Lightroom automaticly maps them out but when you first load a picture in lightroom it can take a couple of seconds before gets it done. I have at least 30 if not more bad pixels.
My cameras do live a rough life in heat, and humidty so that may have something to do with it. Not sure why I have that many bad ones. In the end it doesn't matter since Lightroom does a excellant job auto mapping them.
Peter Montanti wrote:
Get over it, move on, clone it out, quit whining, use your camera. My cameras have always had multiple stuck pixels, its not an issue at all.
Peter
Wow... never knew asking a question and the responding to other people's questions asking for clarification was "whining". *shrug*
Anyway, thanks to everyone else for all the information, between better understanding the terminology (stuck/hot/dead) to my options for fixing it.
Most of us have accepted dead and stuck pixels as a minor gotcha of digital photography years ago. So when the 10,000th post about it appears it's easy to forget it's a new experience for them and interpret their concern as whining. But, yeah, I recall some distain at finding a few hot pixels years back. However I had just come from film scanning so I was happy it was so easy to fix compared to dust & scratches. We really have an easy life.
yep you sure did.........besides, Gilligan hasn't done any whining whatsoever, he simply asked a question to which the rest of us acted on and kept this thread going.
as for the sensor clean/remove hot pixels routine is concerned.......the LENS DOES NOT HAVE TO BE REMOVED..........there is nothing going on here that light or a lens being mounted has any affect. the cleaning mode simply opens the shutter to allow access to the sensor.
Peter Montanti wrote:
>>>Wow... never knew asking a question and the responding to other people's questions asking for clarification was "whining". *shrug*
Your right, Sorry, I was acting ogreish.
Peter
Architectural Photography by Peter Montanti, www.mountainphotographics.com
tanglefoot47 wrote:
Found this in another post a week or two ago I don't know if it works but might not hurt to try
1. Remove lend
2. Install camera body cap and power up
3. Make sure battery is fully charged
4. Place the camera in manual sensor clean mode for 5 minutes. Make sure the camera body cap remains in place for the full 5 minutes
5. Turn camera power off
6. Reinstall lens and test at high ISO
7. Problem solved
Worked like a charm! Thanks for the second hand help
tanglefoot47 wrote:
Found this in another post a week or two ago I don't know if it works but might not hurt to try
1. Remove lend
2. Install camera body cap and power up
3. Make sure battery is fully charged
4. Place the camera in manual sensor clean mode for 5 minutes. Make sure the camera body cap remains in place for the full 5 minutes
5. Turn camera power off
6. Reinstall lens and test at high ISO
7. Problem solved
Out of curiosity, why is the body cap used for this procedure instead of a capped lens?
dfresh wrote: Out of curiosity, why is the body cap used for this procedure instead of a capped lens?
Probably because you can't put the camera in sensor cleaning mode with the lens on...OR...the lens electrical contacts may effect the way it eliminates the hot pixels.
Buyer: The camera you sold me has a stuck pixel
Seller: A stuck what?
Buyer: One of the 8 million pixels on the sensor is hot.
Seller: What is a sensor?
