Is anyone aware of a square circular polarizer large enough to be used this way? On B&H, I see some large cinematography polarizers in $500 range...
I assume the circ pol is necessary for the exposure to read right; focus is not an issue, of course.
(I don't suppose there is any hope of holding my 86mm circ pol, from my 16-35 soon to be sold, in front of this lens...)
The holder is essential as it blocks light from behind the camera when you use the 17 with the protruding element. When handholding a filter on the 24 TS-E, for example you can place it against the front of the lens, but this is not possible with the 17 and it picks up reflections on the filter from the rear.
1. Is "circular" necessary for this manual focus lens? I like getting focus confirmation beep, but that only occurs when the lens is not shifted or tilted anyway. Is a Circ necessary for the ttl exposure reading to be correct?
2. These Schneider lenses claim they are "true-polerizers" and are 12x's more effective than others.. whassup with that?
Not sure I'd ever do this as I still have yet to order the 17 but this is an interesting thread and I thought I'd throw this out there, especially for Roy.
Since you need to cover the air gap behind the filter to stop reflections anyway, why not use something to hold the filter thats mounted in the camera's hot shoe. I'm thinking of a small piece of flat aluminum bar mounted onto a Wein hot shoe that extends past the end of the lens. If you could mount the filter onto the end of the bar and place a small piece of plastic on top to cover the gap it would do two things. Protect the lens itself since nothing touches it and also allows you to manual focus with the filter in place. You would have to be careful when mounting and un-mounting the apparatus. I'm sure someone with machining experience could do this rather easily.
John
Yes, John, I was thinking of something projecting from the camera mount, but I like your idea better. Then, I thought I'd just drape a small black cloth over the whole thing, perhaps with an opening with a square frame sewn in, to slip onto the filter.
I'm talking to Schneider Optics about the right filter.
Roy Pertchik wrote:
Does anybody have an opinion about circular vs. linear polarizer for this manual lens?
(Think I'll post the question over on alternative lenses too.)
I was of the view for a manual focus lens, a LPL should be fine. The metering may be affected and how much so isn't usually known until you try it - if you rotate the filter and the exposure changes then it's affecting the metering, but you have the histogram to help out, so it shouldn't be an issue.
Unless the LPL is much cheaper and still of high quality - eg multicoated etc, I'd stick with a CPL which can be used on other AF lenses.
I Thin a CPL and a ND about cover it, if you don't mind layering multiple exposures.
I just ordered Formatt 5.65x5.65 filters for the 17T&S; a CPL and a 1.8 ND (aka 6 stops, aka 64x) Hope that that was a good choice because, well, $'s. As I recall from a few waterfall shoots, 1.8 is pretty good for misting water, and can work with a CPL stacked for 7 or so stops. I can work out the holder. I've already taken a Lee 82mm WA adapter and trimmed the inside to fit onto the lens flanges that engage the lens cap of the 17T&S. Now I can mount that ring on the lens, and then clip on the Lee holder. Now all I have to do is add width to the Lee holder and add standoffs to hold the filter(s) forward of the HAL9000 eye.
Yakim Peled wrote:
10X. So, CPL, ND, anything more?
Happy shooting,
Yakim.
Occasionally a GND - yes I know you can do multiple exposures, but sometimes the GND is perfect and saves time in PP. I have a couple in the bag always.
I'm asking this because the 17/4 is one of my dream lenses and it's quite expensive as it is so I just wondered how much more will I need to add for filters in case I buy it.
I don't have the 17 but what I do have is $40,000.00 3D printer that prints ABS Plastic and I teach 3D computer design. I have the 24TS-E and the 14II and happy with those but would be willing to help out fellow FM people. I am located in Huntington Beach or Palm Springs, Ca.. If anyone is near and wants to work on a design and make a few parts for testing I would find it an interesting project. Send me a PM if I can help.
