cogitech wrote:
The aperture mechanism needs to be re-installed onto the back of the plate before assembly, or aperture control will be lost altogether. There should be no mirror issues to worry about.
Thanks, Paul.
I figured as much, but that tutorial fails to mention this step. ( ! )
In general, are there no mirror issues with MD lenses and a 5D? I'm considering a different MD lens. I will be doing a slight shave of my mirror anyway, for my upcoming MC 58/1.2 conversion, but it would be good to know. It's really hard to find this info online.
How is the adapter attached to the reduced back in this conversion? I see no screw holes in the adapter so some other method must have been employed.That step looks to be missing.
After taking a second look I see mention of glue. If it is glued on, how does one carry out cleaning or repairs afterward?
The Rokkor 28mm f2.5 SI is one of the best 28mm lenses I have tried and I can confirm there were no mirror issues on the Canon full frame 1-series. I am guessing - from the looks of it the 45mm f2.0 won't pose any issues either.
Although there is an investment of time (a lot of sanding going on there) that is lost too for perhaps a very simple fix. I guess drilling and countersinking holes takes time too.
Anyway, thanks for the info Paul. I thought perhaps I was missing some type of ingenious way (I have developed one I have been planning to try) of using a hidden method of securing the adapter and back assembly.
Cableaddict wrote:
One thing puzzles me, though: You remove the aperture mechanism, and never replace it? How does that work? Is that mechanism only there for when the (Minolta) camera does auto stop-down?
Also: Any mirror issues? (I use a 5D, so this is always a concern)
thanks
Cableaddict,
Yes, the aperture mechanism needs to be put back. I had this done in step 16, 17. Perhaps you missed those steps ?
I can also confirm that others have said that I have no mirror issue with either 5D or 5D MKII.
About MD, MC I don't think they are relevant to mirror clearance. However, all the rokkors with focal length above 58mm I have seen don't have mirror clearance issue. Their rear element is so deep inside even at infinity. I remember someone (Jim?) has also mentioned this in another thread.
pengland wrote:
How is the adapter attached to the reduced back in this conversion?
Pengland,
Perhaps the best way is to drill/countersink holes. Being a little lazy, I used superglue. Should have used epoxy but didn't have any at the time. With superglue, it's pretty easy to take the adapter out. Drop a few acetone drops around the contact points and use a flat-head screw to force the adapter out, one point at a time.
Good to know about longer FL's. That's what I suspected, based on the Leica-to-EOS problems.
BTW- Be aware that superglue doesn't last forever. It is also very susceptible to heat & humidity. If I were you, I'd remove it and re-do with screws or epoxy. (JB Weld is indeed great stuff for metal-to-metal)
