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Rokkor 45mm f2

cogitech
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p.2 #1 · Rokkor 45mm f2

Nick,

I use JB Weld in these situations.

If it is glued on, how does one carry out cleaning or repairs afterward?

One doesn't. One buys another $14 Rokkor 45/2.

Sep 18, 2009 at 12:01 AM

pascal03
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p.2 #2 · Rokkor 45mm f2

The Rokkor 28mm f2.5 SI is one of the best 28mm lenses I have tried and I can confirm there were no mirror issues on the Canon full frame 1-series. I am guessing - from the looks of it the 45mm f2.0 won't pose any issues either.

Sep 18, 2009 at 12:07 AM

pengland
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p.2 #3 · Rokkor 45mm f2

Ahhhh....I see...ok....good point.

Although there is an investment of time (a lot of sanding going on there) that is lost too for perhaps a very simple fix. I guess drilling and countersinking holes takes time too.

Anyway, thanks for the info Paul. I thought perhaps I was missing some type of ingenious way (I have developed one I have been planning to try) of using a hidden method of securing the adapter and back assembly.

Sep 18, 2009 at 12:09 AM

JimBuchanan
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p.2 #4 · Rokkor 45mm f2

Cableaddict wrote:
In general, are there no mirror issues with MD lenses and a 5D?

Beware of the Minolta 35/1.8s. They need about as much clearance as the Rokkor 58/1.2.

The Minolta 28/2.0 with a rear element treatment will clear a stock 5D mirror.

Sep 18, 2009 at 12:58 AM

debuggerus
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p.2 #5 · Rokkor 45mm f2

Cableaddict wrote:
One thing puzzles me, though: You remove the aperture mechanism, and never replace it? How does that work? Is that mechanism only there for when the (Minolta) camera does auto stop-down?

Also: Any mirror issues? (I use a 5D, so this is always a concern)

thanks

Cableaddict,
Yes, the aperture mechanism needs to be put back. I had this done in step 16, 17. Perhaps you missed those steps

?
I can also confirm that others have said that I have no mirror issue with either 5D or 5D MKII.
About MD, MC I don't think they are relevant to mirror clearance. However, all the rokkors with focal length above 58mm I have seen don't have mirror clearance issue. Their rear element is so deep inside even at infinity. I remember someone (Jim?) has also mentioned this in another thread.

pengland wrote:
How is the adapter attached to the reduced back in this conversion?
Pengland,
Perhaps the best way is to drill/countersink holes. Being a little lazy, I used superglue. Should have used epoxy but didn't have any at the time. With superglue, it's pretty easy to take the adapter out. Drop a few acetone drops around the contact points and use a flat-head screw to force the adapter out, one point at a time.

Sep 18, 2009 at 01:36 AM

Cableaddict
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p.2 #6 · Rokkor 45mm f2

Thanks, debuggerus

Good to know about longer FL's. That's what I suspected, based on the Leica-to-EOS problems.

BTW- Be aware that superglue doesn't last forever. It is also very susceptible to heat & humidity. If I were you, I'd remove it and re-do with screws or epoxy. (JB Weld is indeed great stuff for metal-to-metal)

Sep 18, 2009 at 03:31 AM


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