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Archive 2008 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?

  
 
christian86
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p.1 #1 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


Hi,
This is my first post here, so I'm sorry if I'm going to ask for something that has already been asked about.
Another thing is also that I'm from Norway, so I would expect my English to less than good, at least in writing.

I have spent the last year learning about flash and photography; I started out with a D70 about 4 years ago. After sometime I moved on to D2h, but I never bought any lenses, so it was just .jpgs I produced, until this year.

I'm currently using a D700, 85 mm F1,8/70-200 F2,8 VR and SB900 and SB800 (cls) when taking portraits.
My problem keeps ending up with me not getting the right amount of lights, and the light seems flat...or as I say; the background could have been a nice poster, not something real.

Link to examples:
http://www.linselusa.com/Album/Mennesker/Mennesker181008/index.html

Currently I'm stuck with these two options:

I can continue to use CLS, and try better in the field, maybe use the orbis as a ring flash

or

I could buy the Bowens 500 set, were as I have gotten a good offer compared to Norwegian prices. In Norway it costs 19500 nok (or 2700 USD), and my offer has been 850 GBP which is ap. 9000 nok.

Now; in my situation, what would have been recommended to do?
From the pictures you can see what I have to work with, and the equipment. But I'm wondering, being a armature/semi pro am I to strict about my products, expecting to much from just trying the last 4 months(Only had the sb800 and 900 since August) or could the Bowens be a good idea?

Thanks for looking



Dec 27, 2008 at 03:47 PM
Justin Huffman
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p.1 #2 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


wow you have some very nice portraits there Christian. I used to use CLS and ran into the same wall you have; so I will offer my humble experience. After 2 years I finally went with full manual speedlights and have never looked back.

CLS is pretty darned sophicated in its' own right. However IMHO its a gimmicky trick for people to buy into. yes its super super controllable and powerful but to get to the "Joe McNally" level of lighting you need like a dozen sb800's And I can almost GUARANTEE Mr McNally is not using the CLS in any kind of iTTL situation. He may be using the CLS to control output remotely but he is not letting the camera figure out his exposure. In other words he's using CLS to fire the strobes wirelessly and dumbing down the intelligence of the CLS. (by firing them in manual mode)

The best lighting advice you can get is to read the strobist.com series of hot shoe lighting. It offers a way to get studio quality lighting from cheap used hot shoe lights.

Again I hope folks dont think Im trashing the CLS technology because Im not. its awesome for many things, but a better understanding of flash and output will make CLS even better.




Dec 27, 2008 at 03:56 PM
christian86
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p.1 #3 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


Thank you
All I have gotten as answer from (other than those pictured) is that the light is flatt, or skin tones isn't right with more....maybe I have met the wrong people, since they never seem to think I do anything right.

You might be right, but going to manual dosn't seem to a option now. Another option might be 3 PW, one for the Sb900, and the S800, and one for D300 or D700, depending on which I use.

CLS is good for it's things, but it anoys me that my SB800 keep falling asleep while I'm taking pictures, and then I have to walk back to wake it up....or the distance is to huge, and it won't work.

Based one the pictures what would you say is missing? or could have been better?
Would I be better off buying the gear I'm thinking about, or just trying PW which whould turn the SB800 and 900 over to manual?



Dec 27, 2008 at 04:29 PM
Richard Ersted
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p.1 #4 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


All I have gotten as answer from (other than those pictured) is that the light is flatt, or skin tones isn't right with more....maybe I have met the wrong people, since they never seem to think I do anything right.

How do you acquire focus?; to my eyes, several of the photos shown in your set seem slightly 'soft'. Your photo of the women with the concrete stairs in the background appears quite sharp to me; but, some of your other shots seem 'soft'. Is your D700 set up to acquire focus using the AF-On button on the camera's rear?; if not, you may wish to set up the D700 with such feature, take some shots, and compare to your prior work.

You might be right, but going to manual dosn't seem to a option now. Another option might be 3 PW, one for the Sb900, and the S800, and one for D300 or D700, depending on which I use.

Have you reviewed the pending release from RadioPopper?; I'm not certain when these will be available in Europe but it may be worth the wait.

Based one the pictures what would you say is missing? or could have been better?

You may find this 10 November 2008 post at strobist.com interesting; the concepts discussed therein are quite valuable, I believe.

How do you process your D700 files?; do you shoot RAW or *.jpeg?

Do you tweak your Picture Control settings at all?; in particular, where do you have 'sharpening' set within your chosen Picture Control?
_____

You may also wish to post your inquiry in the "People" forum; there are a number of very knowledgeable photographers who post frequently to such forum.

Richard Ersted



Dec 27, 2008 at 07:08 PM
christian86
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p.1 #5 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


Hi again,
Normally I use the focus were I choose the focuspoint while moving the joystick. The pictures of the man was taken by one of the ladies, and she had never used the camera before, I had to talk her through it. That might explain some of the soft pictures since I liked them so good, I took the on the page anyhow.

Regarding the radipopper; I was told about that one just a couple of minutes ago, so I'm considering that, or maybe the elincrome version.

Processing:

Normally:
Name: Vivid
Sharp: 9
Contrast: step over 1
Sat: 2
Hue: 2


maybe I should set it to neutral?

When it comes to editing:
Normally I use lightroom 2, placing EV or curves a bit lower to get more color, and then adjust more saturation depending on picture.

Maybe a better idea could be
Neutral - unsharpen mask - adjusting the color to more normal, not so must saturation - and use other means to get more color....could the picture be better then in terms of skincolor, and less flat light?



Dec 27, 2008 at 08:18 PM
Neddie Seagoon
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p.1 #6 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


With regards the issue of the SB falling "asleep" this is easily fixed. Hold down the sel button for the control menu, scroll through to the Stby function and select ---. This will shut off the standby function and the unit will no longer "go to sleep."

Also agree that neutral color control will work much better for your kind of portraits, vivid is just too harsh for skin. I've had good results with neutral and +1 saturation. You could also try the "Portrait" mode available from Nikon's web site.



Dec 27, 2008 at 09:27 PM
christian86
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p.1 #7 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


do you have a link for the portrait mode?

ediT: affter some googling I found it



Dec 27, 2008 at 09:29 PM
Richard Ersted
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p.1 #8 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


You could also try the "Portrait" mode available from Nikon's web site.

I agree; it's very good for skin tones; you may wish to 'push' contrast up, but just slightly; for example, set contrast -- within the 'Portrait' picture control -- to +1.

Normally I use lightroom 2...

Have you tried Capture NX v2.x?; it's very good at producing excellent color rendition; in my experience, it's difficult to duplicate the color rendition generated by CNX.

Normally I use the focus were I choose the focuspoint while moving the joystick.

I see; but, I was asking 'how do you acquire focus'?; in other words, how are you 'driving' focus acquisition?; through the shutter release button -- a half-way push -- or through AF-On?

If you are not using AF-On, you should try it; it works very, very well; nearly all sports shooters use AF-On, in my experience; it separates focus acquisition from photo acquisition.
_____

In general, I think you are closer than you may think to your ultimate goal; in my rough opinion, you may not need high watt-second lights to get outstanding images.

Do you shoot in RAW?

Richard



Dec 27, 2008 at 10:59 PM
christian86
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p.1 #9 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


Hi,
Yes, everything I shoot is in raw, and I store them on a external computer.

I got NX2 yesterday, so I'll try that and the portrait

Thank you all



Dec 28, 2008 at 08:02 AM
Numfar
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p.1 #10 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


From what I can see, you have a pretty good grasp on composition, and a nice selection of backgrounds.

You do need more/better lighting. Depending on budget, I'd suggest picking up a strobe set that can output at least 600ws. A pair of heads would be a good start. Also pick up stands and a good large reflector. Elinchrom has some good, inexpensive systems that should be well available in Europe.

Or if budget is a big issue, get some very inexpensive, but relatively strong (don't cheap out on the power) strobes. Pick up second hand stuff if you need to, and make your own modifiers.

Start learning one light set ups (using the reflector) and then move on to learning ratios. At the same time, practice overpowern the sun, and then using the lights as fill for the sun.

Most of all, pull images that you like from magazines or the web, and try to replicate the light you see in them. Ask if you're not certain how to do it. Allow yourself to make mistakes, and to try set ups you're unfamiliar with. After 6 months, you'll know a whole lot more than you do now, and in a couple years, you'll find that you have a pretty good understanding of how to use your lights.

Most of all, it's about shooting, practicing, and just gaining experience.

B



Dec 28, 2008 at 08:38 AM
DaveEP
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p.1 #11 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


Justin Huffman wrote:
..... yes its super super controllable and powerful but to get to the "Joe McNally" level of lighting you need like a dozen sb800's And I can almost GUARANTEE Mr McNally is not using the CLS in any kind of iTTL situation.


This gets repeated often enough that it seems people are starting to believe it, but it is simply not true.

If you took the time to watch Joe's videos (I always think you can learn 'something' from everyone), you will see that most of the time he is using 1, 2 or 3 speedlghts, and using CLS in TTL mode, not manually.

The 'dozen' speedlights you refer to are by far the exception, and are by no means his normal method of working.

Forgive me if I don't accept your GUARANTEE.





Dec 31, 2008 at 06:36 AM
Justin Huffman
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p.1 #12 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


Hi Dave, the laughing smiley icon in my post represents a sort of tongue in cheek folly here in the states. We all understand its not the norm to use a dozen lights.

I agree whole heartedly there is much to learn from McNallys' DVD's.

If you've watched Joe McNally in non Nikon sponsored videos he uses elinchromes mixed with sb800's but does not use CLS. Check out kelbytraining.com for examples. And if you respond, how about helpin the original post with his problem, as thats all I was trying to offer.



Dec 31, 2008 at 08:46 AM
DaveEP
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p.1 #13 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


Justin Huffman wrote:
Hi Dave, the laughing smiley icon in my post represents a sort of tongue in cheek folly here in the states. We all understand its not the norm to use a dozen lights.

I agree whole heartedly there is much to learn from McNallys' DVD's.

If you've watched Joe McNally in non Nikon sponsored videos he uses elinchromes mixed with sb800's but does not use CLS. Check out kelbytraining.com for examples.


Hi Justin,

Clearly when mixing Elinchrom and Nikon lights together, you can't use CLS/TTL, but (and yes I have the Nikon sponsored videos) he doesn't do that very often. In fact, he didn't do it at all in the last one. It was all CLS.

And if you respond, how about helpin the original post with his problem, as thats all I was trying to offer.

I was about to do that but went back and read all the previous posts first. Having responded to your post, I was called out, and only just got back. Not sure how long ago you posted.

So, to the OP I would add this:

Studio lighting and battery powered studio strobes absolutely have their place in the photography skill set. If you are in situations that need them, there are simply no substitutes (and I generally agree that using a dozen speedlights is no substitute for a couple of 1200 watt strobes). However, I have gone the other way. I recently sold all my Elincrom studio lights, large softboxes, octobox (this is the one I will miss the most), snoots, grids et al, because I was not enjoying dragging them around to locations (especially locations without power - which required battery packs), having to manually adjust each and every strobe by walking up to it, modifying it, then either shooting to see the results or checking the output with a light meter. In fact they were getting left behind much more than I took them with me.

Instead, I am now working exclusively with speedlights, controlling everything from the camera (either on the camera or via an SU-800), or where distances are too great (not very often) I use the Pocket Wizards I used to trigger the Elinchroms with to trigger the speedlights instead. I have found speedlights very liberating.

Now, if I were in LA or somewhere with constant sunshine, and always shooting outdoors, I may not have done this, but in the north of England it's really not that hard to over power daylight, and I suspect the same is true in Norway. Last time I was in Norway the sky was about as cloudy as it is at home. Sure, there are days of extreme bright sunshine, but not very often.

You already have some great shots, and I very much doubt that buying studio strobes is going to make 'the' difference to the shots you have. Another speedlight or two (even SB-600s) may be all you need.

You only have two speedlights? For many shots that's enough (especially with a well positioned reflector), because as you already know, many shots require only 1 speedlight, others need 2, and then some will need 3 for either better coverage or better separation of the subject and background. Often the 3rd light is what makes the difference between 'flat' and 'pop'.

Rarely do I need a fourth for people shots - but it does happen. Generally the fourth light you could get away with a really cheap optically triggered slave, and you can pick these up for less than £20. I have 4 of these that I use from time to time for hidden lights with gels for that extra added color dimension.

It's all a trade off between power, portability and controllability. It's not an absolute science, and different solutions are required for different locations, different subjects and different operating environments.

Just my opinion... and since it was free, it may be worth very little







Dec 31, 2008 at 09:32 AM
shatterkiss
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p.1 #14 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


DaveEP wrote:
However, I have gone the other way. I recently sold all my Elincrom studio lights, large softboxes, octobox (this is the one I will miss the most), snoots, grids et al, because I was not enjoying dragging them around to locations (especially locations without power - which required battery packs), having to manually adjust each and every strobe by walking up to it, modifying it, then either shooting to see the results or checking the output with a light meter. In fact they were getting left behind much more than I took them with me.


I think that the big difference here is that you spent time learning on "dumb" studio strobes before moving to Speedlights and CLS, so you'd already built a strong foundation of lighting knowledge.

The big cognitive issue with CLS, from my perspective, is that it doesn't force the photographer to learn what the lights are really doing and why. Without that understanding you're at a disadvantage when it comes to evaluating a scene, understanding where the available light may be lacking and using artificial light to achieve your desired end result. I think you fall into the trap of just thinking, "oh, I'll put my flash over here and let the camera's logic do the rest."

Even if you're going to work with Speedlights and CLS, I'd still put in the time using your lights in completely manual modes, just understanding why a stop more or less on a flash might change the emotional resonance of a scene, or why you might want to overexpose one thing and underexpose another. "Incorrect" exposures are a really powerful visual tool, but one that an automated system like ETTL and CLS are never going to employ on their own. CLS can't make creative decisions, and if you're letting CLS do all the work then you can't either.



Dec 31, 2008 at 10:03 AM
Justin Huffman
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p.1 #15 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


shatterkiss wrote:
I think that the big difference here is that you spent time learning on "dumb" studio strobes before moving to Speedlights and CLS, so you'd already built a strong foundation of lighting knowledge.

The big cognitive issue with CLS, from my perspective, is that it doesn't force the photographer to learn what the lights are really doing and why. Without that understanding you're at a disadvantage when it comes to evaluating a scene, understanding where the available light may be lacking and using artificial light to achieve your desired end result. I think you fall into the trap of just thinking,
...Show more



That was what I was trying to convey in my original post, thanks Shatterkiss very well written!

Justin



Dec 31, 2008 at 10:16 AM
DaveEP
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p.1 #16 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


shatterkiss wrote:
Even if you're going to work with Speedlights and CLS, I'd still put in the time using your lights in completely manual modes, just understanding why a stop more or less on a flash might change the emotional resonance of a scene, or why you might want to overexpose one thing and underexpose another. "Incorrect" exposures are a really powerful visual tool, but one that an automated system like ETTL and CLS are never going to employ on their own. CLS can't make creative decisions, and if you're letting CLS do all the work then you can't either.


A good point, well made. Fortunately, playing with manual lighting using CLS is also very easy, and well worth the effort.

I did forget to mention in my post above that I almost always have flash compensation dialed in with one or more stops up or down 'somewhere' in the setup. So it's fair to say that any time I have multiple speedlights, even set to TTL, it's very rare that all lights are on TTL 0.0ev.



Dec 31, 2008 at 10:19 AM
Richard Ersted
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p.1 #17 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


DaveEP wrote:
A good point, well made. Fortunately, playing with manual lighting using CLS is also very easy, and well worth the effort.

I did forget to mention in my post above that I almost always have flash compensation dialed in with one or more stops up or down 'somewhere' in the setup. So it's fair to say that any time I have multiple speedlights, even set to TTL, it's very rare that all lights are on TTL 0.0ev.


Both of these posts are very sage advice, I believe. Thanks for posting, shatterkiss and DaveEP.

Richard



Dec 31, 2008 at 03:51 PM
JDeV
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p.1 #18 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


I have almost 30 yrs. experience with studio lighting. I have recently been playing around with my SB800 and my old SB24/Wein slave. I was pleasantly surprised to find that my SB800 when set to remote(on board flash was my commander) fired while inside my Apollo soft box. I want to get an SB600, and experiment with shutter speeds to determine my backgrounds. The idea of getting a nice softbox light quality while using CLS really intrigues me.

Jon

ps...when I was a kid, I started working with a goal of becoming Mr. America. Later on I continued to work out with a goal of being able to carry my Speedotron Black boxes Now I work out to delay the aging process so I have time to learn CLS



Dec 31, 2008 at 03:55 PM
rudiphoto
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p.1 #19 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


Yes, carrying packs and heads is a chore, but these days they can be controlled remotely, just like Nikon's or Canon's speedlights. I hate carrying my Ranger pack and heads to location, but once I start using them, my speedlights are quickly forgotten... of course, a midday wedding here in Australia usually means that we're about 3/4 of a mile away from the sun!


Jan 02, 2009 at 06:16 PM
DaveEP
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p.1 #20 · Should I continue using CLS or move on to strobes?


rudiphoto wrote:
Yes, carrying packs and heads is a chore, but these days they can be controlled remotely, just like Nikon's or Canon's speedlights. I hate carrying my Ranger pack and heads to location, but once I start using them, my speedlights are quickly forgotten... of course, a midday wedding here in Australia usually means that we're about 3/4 of a mile away from the sun!


A perfect example of where heads are better than speedlights I'm kinda jealous of the weather some of you guys get. Grey days are depressing



Jan 03, 2009 at 07:14 AM





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