So.. I am planing on grabbing x2 580's and (3) PW's with light stands, ect, ect, ect... So I can "really" start to practice how lighting works : )
As I was sitting on my couch last-night, dreaming of my new toys to arrive... I thought of something.. "the beep". The beep that tells me the flash has recycled... that normally comes from off camera light strobes correct? Not the PW... thus.. I will have no idea when my 2-580's have recycled 20-feet away from me??
lol... there is always something... what is the solution to this?
Just count in your head. About 4.5-5 seconds from full power (depending on batteries if they are fresh or not, but also adding the CP-E3/4 battery packs improves recycle time significantly).
I use mine at 1/4 or less power... you can pretty much shoot as fast as you want. I think at 1/4 power, you can fire something like 3 times in 2 seconds pretty much until the batteries go dead. Go down to 1/8 or 1/16 power and things get even better. Not a ton of light, but pretty decent performance if it suits your needs.
No, : ) I wish... I meant in the studio using other lighting systems this is a helpful thing... thus, in my situation I will be using the 580's with no beep... thus, what is common practice to 1.) get a beep somehow.. or 2.) what the recycle time seems to be...
I use mine at 1/4 or less power... you can pretty much shoot as fast as you want. I think at 1/4 power, you can fire something like 3 times in 2 seconds pretty much until the batteries go dead. Go down to 1/8 or 1/16 power and things get even better. Not a ton of light, but pretty decent performance if it suits your needs.
good.. and this is using the battery expansion, correct?
Why does everyone think pocket wizards are needed to use Canon flash? Start with the two Canon flashes, learn to use them, then add other stuff as needed when you get a clue what you are doing... Reading my tutorials will help in that regard and might save you some $$$ in the long run. Click the WWW button below.
If already you have your mind set on needing radio you are limiting yourself to manual control. In that case there's no compelling need to by Canon ETTL flashes. If you start with the simple and proved approach I suggest (wedding shooters have use it for 40 years) you can always add onto it with radio triggers later as needed. But if you learn to use the Canon system you may find you don't need them and can spend your money on things that make a bright flashing light.
Just trying to save you some money, get more value for what you spend and learn more faster
I didn't realize this thread had anything to do with how to trigger the flash.... I thought it was about recycle time and how to know when they're ready to fire
Lucky_Dog wrote:
I didn't realize this thread had anything to do with how to trigger the flash.... I thought it was about recycle time and how to know when they're ready to fire
I always try to add value and don't see your name on the moderator list and you didn't ask the question so how is my reply your concern anyway
If you use the Canon system the AF assist light on the Slave blinks as a ready light. Fire the flash and it goes out. When you see it blinking again you know it is recharged. It operates that way because the small ready indicator (pilot light in Canon-speak) isn't visible with the front of the slave where the sensor is points at the master on the camera.
On the pilot light on back it will first turn green indicating ready for "quick flash" then red when about 80% charged. Wait about another sec to ensure full charge.
In manual mode its best to operate in the 1/2 power range when possible which makes for faster recycling. If operating in the 1/4 power range you and get 2-3 successive shots off before the flashes need to pause and recharge back the the level you'd set manually.
Chuck
Just trying to save you some money, get more value for what you spend and learn more faster
Chuck, thank you. I agree.. however I am in a unique situation, where I have someone who want to "invest" in me, and wants a "list" of all the items I will "ever" need for a few years, and to be prepared for lots of different situations. Now, I love your site, and am learning tons from that and Strobist... I love it all... and I can see how X2 580s on stands can do a lot!! I have been very impressed... I am very creative, and don't want any limits... thus I am voting for the PW from the start...
Now the reason I am getting Canon flashes is mainly because I can also use them in ETTL with a bracket for less formal things... ; ) and I can also put one on my "other" camera and hand off if need be... I felt it was worth it.. now they are $370.00 (rebate of 50.00)...
cgardner wrote:
I always try to add value and don't see your name on the moderator list and you didn't ask the question so how is my reply your concern anyway
If you use the Canon system the AF assist light on the Slave blinks as a ready light. Fire the flash and it goes out. When you see it blinking again you know it is recharged. It operates that way because the small ready indicator (pilot light in Canon-speak) isn't visible with the front of the slave where the sensor is points at the master on the camera.
On the pilot light on back it will first turn green indicating ready for "quick flash" then red when about 80% charged. Wait about another sec to ensure full charge.
In manual mode its best to operate in the 1/2 power range when possible which makes for faster recycling. If operating in the 1/4 power range you and get 2-3 successive shots off before the flashes need to pause and recharge back the the level you'd set manually.
Chuck...Show more →
I'm still awaiting status on my moderator application, .
BTW; I appreciate all of the information and great technical advice you share on the forums. I have read all of your essays and use much of the information that you share.
However, the OP said that he already ordered his pocket wizards and couldn't wait to play with his new "toys"... lecturing about what to use *instead* is a waste of bandwidth at this point and doesn't t answer the questions that he asked. I happen to agree with you, and suggested that he not spend even more money for a battery pack... but, he seems pretty set on using manual mode and pocket wizards.
Speaking of wasting bandwidth.... I'll shut-up now
cgardner: On the pilot light on back it will first turn green indicating ready for "quick flash" then red when about 80% charged. Wait about another sec to ensure full charge.
That's how I do it. Red then green on the back and you're ready and battery packs. I shoot all day with 3-4 580/550s + packs. NO PROBs. Although charging 12 batteries x 4 at a time is a bit of a drag.
Something like this also saves the cost of another PW, flash, STE2, RP, etc. Good for about 3-4 metres. I used a few of these before I went PW crazy and wanted to get arround awkward line of sight issues with the Canon wireless http://www.flickr.com/photos/29956235@N03/3110269464/
...and if you get all you are listing make sure you set things up logically. For example if you are going to use one light as your 'main' at a higher output power then put the battery pack on that light and run the filler/slaves on AA's since they will likely be on lower power and therefore consuming less.
Turn the body of the flash so you can see the back with the lights it will tell you when the flash is ready to fire and if the flash fired in the last 20-30 seconds. use the l-r pan of the head and you should still be able to position the head how you need it and if you are lucky with most modifiers still see the back of the body for the ready light.
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