brainiac Offline Dedicated FM Account Locked
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>Yes, you have the option in a 3200/6400 frame to push it, but if you require a fast shutter to stillframe the shot, pushing it in post won't change the fact that the image is blurry.
If you need to push on a 1Ds3, or any camera, just set exposure compensation to -1 or -2, and the camera will automatically underexpose the image so that it's ready to push in post. That way you get shutter speeds twice or 4 times as fast as you otherwise would. When light's really low, I set my 1Ds3 to 3200 and -2, and just shoot away, knowing that I can get good results out of the underexposed files in post.
Here's a shot that would not have come out well enough to use if it hadn't been pushed. The only way to get this shot was by shooting at very high iso (12800) because I could not illuminate with flash (and didn't want to), and subject movement needed to be frozen enough. My 200 f1.8 was wide open, and I forgot to bring my 200 f0.75. Some other pictures in this series showed significant subject motion blur, so I was right on limits, but got quite a few usable ones. Nothing but very high iso can solve this problem:

Here's another picture where 12800 iso and an f1.4 lens were the only way to get a sharp subject:

Contrary to what some are saying here, iso 12800 didn't ruin these pictures, it made them possible, and my clients benefit. There is visible banding in the second image, but it isn't severe enough to spoil the picture. High iso performance matters a lot to photographers who shoot indoor or night-time sports, theatre, gigs, social events, astro, and many many other kinds of photography. How someone can argue that it is a marginal feature I just don't understand. These iso 12800 cameras are opening up a new world of photography.
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