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Archive 2008 · What did I do wrong....
  
 
ashokrai
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p.1 #1 · What did I do wrong....


Although I'm semi OK with these two pics, I don't feel that I lit the eyes well at all. They seem dark, not bright and blue (although I could pp them to be so).

Here's my setup:
AB 1600 camera right with a large octobox (metered f/8)
300w monolight bounced into an umbrella high camera left for fill (both together metered f/11)

What should have I done better to get the eyes brighter (without blowing out everything else)?

Thanks for any advice

http://gallery.me.com/ashokrai#100084

Nov 23, 2008 at 05:29 PM
k7xd
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p.1 #2 · What did I do wrong....


Eyes are always problematic.

My best advice is here under the tutorials-eye section

http://www.christyschuler.com/retouching.html


Nov 23, 2008 at 07:02 PM
John Patrick
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p.1 #3 · What did I do wrong....


First, you do realize that the complete hi-res image can be downloaded, right?

A little PP will make those eyes brighter, but they look natural to me.

The bigger atrocity is that you cut off her toes in the second shot! You should have had her pull her feet to the chair leg closest to you to prevent that.

John


Nov 23, 2008 at 07:22 PM
ashokrai
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p.1 #4 · What did I do wrong....


Thanks John. The toes was a total "Doh" moment to quote Homer Simpson. Totally screwed that one up. The PP part is easy, just wondering what I should have done differently, if anything.

The toe thing will haunt me forever. What a dumb thing to do.

Nov 23, 2008 at 09:33 PM
ashokrai
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p.1 #5 · What did I do wrong....


k7xd wrote:
Eyes are always problematic.

My best advice is here under the tutorials-eye section

http://www.christyschuler.com/retouching.html



Thank you! That's a great tutorial. Very easy and not what I would have done.

Nov 23, 2008 at 09:44 PM
blob loblaw
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p.1 #6 · What did I do wrong....


Hey forget retouching. Get those gorgeous eyes outside, on a bright day in a shade. The pupils will constrict and reveal more of the iris!
You can blast her with a softbox outside as well

Nov 24, 2008 at 03:51 AM
ashokrai
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p.1 #7 · What did I do wrong....


Would love to if it wasn't below freezing out there

Nov 24, 2008 at 03:57 AM
blob loblaw
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p.1 #8 · What did I do wrong....


Yikes!

Then try making the room as bright as you can but not to the point of squinting. Move the octa (octobox?) as close as you can to make the lightsource larger and more diffused. Use black flags to control the bounce

fwiw: the first one is pretty good.

Nov 24, 2008 at 04:01 AM
 



ashokrai
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p.1 #9 · What did I do wrong....


Thanks, I will try that next shoot.

Nov 24, 2008 at 04:10 AM
cgardner
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p.1 #10 · What did I do wrong....


The problem is a perceptual one related to posing, exposure, and selection of background clothing and props.

The important thing to realize about lighting, in the holistic sense, is that light doesn't model shape or attract the eye, CONTRAST does. Highlights don't create contrast by themselves, its actually defined by the relative reflectance of everything in the photo and how the shadows define the shape of things.

It is contrast which "pulls" and "pushes" the eye around a photo. Where the eyes go is controlled by the brain and the brain reacts to contrast. It is a basic survival skill because on the primeval level if something moves or seems out of place it usually a threat. Contrast manifests itself many different ways in photo: tone, color, relative sharpness, relative size. So for a photo to work to attract the viewer to the face all the elements of contrast in the photo need to work together harmoniously and holistically to provide clues to their brain to attract them to the face.

For starters, the jet black background also isn't a good choice for a fair skinned lass in light clothing with white props. Perceptually its a bit like driving at night on a two-lane road and getting blinded by the headlights of an approaching car. The white of the chair and the bright pink dress overpower the contrast of the front of the face.



This image is copyrighted by the owner




I've used various forms of perceptual "slight of hand" in the quick edit above to illustrate how contrast works. My first move was to make the background white, which eliminates the chair as a distaction. It now blends into the background harmoniously.

With a blond on white its actually color contrast of warm hair and skin against the neutral background which is the strongest form of attractive contrast. In that respect a pink dress is not an ideal choice, but little girls wear pink so what are ya' gonna do? Well on white DARKER pink will contrast more then lighter pink so we adjust the contrast (by feathering light when shooting) to make the pink dress lighter than the face so in relative terms the slightly darker (but normally exposed) face and hair contrast more on the white background. In other words on white you'd want to feather the lights opposite to the way you did on the dark background, vignetting LIGHTER towards the edges of the photo so the light-to-darker contrast pulling the eye up and into the face.

The first compositional / holistic lighting goal in a portrait is to get the viewer from the edges of the photo to the front of the face. The second goal is KEEP THEM THERE!!!

People when seeing a photo and recognizing a face it in it will react as they do to a stranger in person, try to make eye contact to "size them up". Again that is a basic survival reaction literally hard wired into our brains. So really the problem in a portrait isn't so much finding the face, but keeping the viewer from being distracted off of it once they find it.

Contrasting the head with the background helps the viewer's brain find the face in the photo. Then what you need to do is make the front of the face, specifically the eyes and mouth which are what the viewer will react to emotionally, hold their attention. That is again done with contrast. I use a shot of my wife to illustrate how the contrast dynamic works on a light background. The shot below was taken on a visit to a river side park. Since she was wearing white I needed a light background so the clothing wouldn't become a huge distraction. The sun reflecting off the water worked perfectly for that and also provided nice back rim lighting. The frontal lighting was a single 580ex flash on a bracket with a reflector.



This image is copyrighted by the owner




Blurring it and making it more of an abstract tone/color pattern is a way to simulate how the brain reacts to the contrast pattern in the photo and how the shape of the face is defined.



This image is copyrighted by the owner




The viewer gets pulled into the face in two stages, first by the contrast if the head to the background - in her case the dark hair and complexion - and then within the face the highlight pattern on the raised areas naturally model the shape of the face by defining a "mask" pattern the brain easily recognizes as a face. Patterns like that are why people swear they see religious figures in burnt toast and water stains on church walls. They are also what make portrait lighting strategies effective or not.

But it is important to realize a lighting pattern is defined with CONTRAST of highlight and shadow. On my wife's darker complexion I knew that the downward pattern of light from the diffuser on my flash bracket would define the mask with the highlights with the unlit sides of the face providing the framing contrast. A flash bracket provides centered "butteryfly" style lighting which is perfect for a full face view because it overlays a symmetrical pattern of highlight and shadow over a symmetrical pose.

Butterfly lighting on a fair skinned blonde subject like yours will also make the sides of the face darker than the front to create the same "mask" effect but the effect is very subtle unless the light is very close to the face. That is one of the reasons beauty dishes are commonly used in full face views. They can be placed very close to the head so the light falls off rapidly making the sides of the face quite dark relative to the normally exposed eyes. The disk over the flash tube creates a dead spot which when aimed at the closer forehead (which is closer to the light than the eyes) keeps it from getting overexposed: its a light with a built-in flag.

So all I did in the edit to make the eyes "brighter" is use a multiply adjustment level to make the sides of her face a bit darker. It makes the eyes and cheeks seem brighter by comparison, just as butterfly lighting used close would.

I mentioned earlier that contrast comes in many forms. Relative sharpness is an important contrast clue to the viewer what is important. Its why we spend $$$ for lenses with good Bokeh and use plain backgrounds for portraits: to provide a clue that the sharper stuff is more important. Sharpness says, "Go look at that, its important". I also mentioned that goal #2 is keeping the viewer on the face of a portrait once they get there. An effective perceptual technique to accomplish that is to selectively sharpen just the eyes and mouth of a portrait, then make everything softer by degrees the further away and less important it is than the face. That way when the viewer starts to wander off the face the unsharpness will send the sub-conscious clue to the brain "don't go there - nothing interesting there". The brain, being curious, will still cause the eye to wander, but if the face area has more contrast with the background in terms of both tone and sharpness it will become the natural "center of gravity" the viewer always is pulled back to naturally.

I intentionally exaggerated the blur in the edit so it would be noticed. If actually editing for best effect the blur should be just enough to clue the eye to move past that area, but not so much the blur seems contrived or artificial vs. what is seen by eye. The thing you need to realize about human vision and the use of blur in photos is that in real life we only sharply focus on the center 2-degrees of our field of view - an area roughly twice the size of your thumb held out at arm's length. That's why out of focus areas in photos provide the sub-conscious clue of relative importance. The photo is usually small enough to see most of it sharply, and the out of focus areas on the edges mimic how the eye would selectively focus on the wider FOV if seeing the same thing in person.

Here's another blurred example to illustrate the powerful attraction contrast can create with background, clothing and lighting pattern on the face all work together holistically to make the FRONT OF THE FACE the contrasting center of attention. The photo on the right is the same as above. The one on the left is an oblique view with a "short" lighting pattern, which is another very effective combination.



This image is copyrighted by the owner




So you really aren't doing anything "wrong" you simply don't understand yet how to make all the elements of lighting in the holistic sense of where the light is aimed and what it reflects off of work together to guide the eye of the viewer to what is most important and keep them there.

In your case more light was needed on the background and foreground make the chair and clothing less distracting. Then on the face you simply needed to frame the front of the face with shadows on the sides to make the front of the face, eyes and mouth area seem brighter, in relative terms. Selective sharpening and vignettes towards the background tone can also be used to help guide the viewer to the face and keep them there. So all you really need to do is take the technical skills you have an put them into more of a holistic problem solving framework. Click the WWW button below and read the first tutorials in the concepts section and you'll understand what I mean if you don't already

Chuck

Nov 24, 2008 at 02:06 PM
mmurph
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p.1 #11 · What did I do wrong....


ashokrai wrote:The toe thing will haunt me forever. What a dumb thing to do.

Oh, man. I wish I had **your** problems!!

Never happened to me, but the first time you lose all of the pictures from a wedding you just shot ....

Best,
Michael


Nov 24, 2008 at 11:00 PM
ashokrai
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p.1 #12 · What did I do wrong....


Chuck,
Thank you! That was an incredible post that I've read twice now just to absorb it all. All of your points make sense, especially as I went into my own portfolio and looked at some pics done on a white background, etc.

The time you put into that post is greatly appreciated.



Ashok



Nov 25, 2008 at 01:31 AM
cgardner
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p.1 #13 · What did I do wrong....


ashokrai wrote:
Chuck,
Thank you! That was an incredible post that I've read twice now just to absorb it all. All of your points make sense, especially as I went into my own portfolio and looked at some pics done on a white background, etc.


Try this approach to guide your strategy... It starts with the goal of making the front of the face the natural center of attraction in terms of contrast.

1) The background sets the "key" for the photo, and clothing and props which contrast strongly with the background will distract from the face. Usually in a portrait situation EVERYTHING except the clothing is under the control of the photographer. So my first step is to select a background color and tone which will make the clothing non-distracting. If the clothing is a bright primary color like red the best strategy would be to use a red background so the clothing will recede. Props, if used, should also blend into the background harmoniously: they should be there for support or framing of the subject, not to attract attention.

2) The goal of a conventional portrait is to flatter the subject and the best foundation for that is finding the most flattering facial angle to view the face. Most faces look best in oblique view because it better reveals the 3D shape of a face and when combined with a complementary lighting pattern it will also make the face look slimmer and symmetrical. So the next step is to choose the most flattering angle by looking at the face profile-to-profile and letting your eye decide which is more flattering.

3) When the facial angle is selected, it, combined with the choice of background dictated with by the clothing, will help guide the lighting strategy which will most effectively CONTRAST the FRONT of the face. Again the goal is to make the front of the face the most dominant attractive area that contrasts with the background.

On a dark background that's pretty simple: put light on the front of the face.

In a full face pose the most effective pattern to do that is butterfly. Short lighting with a full face pose can also be used, but the net effect of symmetrical view + asymmetrical lighting pattern can make the net result a lopsided looking face. The highlighted side will look wider than the shadow side and tend to cut the face in half perceptually. The balance of how lopsided a full face view is with short lighting can be controlled with neutral fill from over the camera. The more fill that is added the lighter the shadows become and the more balanced the highlight and shadow sides look.

In an oblique view on a dark background short lighting is very effective because it defines just the front "mask" of the face in highlight. Placing fill over the camera will make the shadows on the face progressively darker further back increasing the attraction from the dark background into the front of the face. As with the full face pose how light or dark the shadows are on the side of the face will affect the balance, but with an oblique pose making the shadows lighter will make the face appear to be wider.

On a white background color contrast plays an important role. If the clothing is neutral and non-distracting -- as it will be if you choose background based on clothing - then the color of the hair and face will contrast strongly. For this reason lighting strategies which are relatively flat which make the skin warm and saturated are very effective.

On white dark attracts the most attention because it contrasts and if shadows get too dark they become distractions. That's why short lighting is less effective on white backgrounds with oblique views. The brighter far side of the face blends into the background and the eye gets attracted by contrast to the darker side of the head: away from the front of the face. The exception to this is when women have long hair framing the face. The frame of the hair allows short lighting to work as effectively on white backgrounds as it does on dark ones in oblique views.

For an oblique view on a white background where hair isn't framing the face a lighting strategy which makes the far side of the face darker and the side of the head brighter and blending with the background is needed. Broad lighting is ideal, but a low ratio like 2:1 must be used to keep the far side well lit. The lighting pattern needs to create the same "mask" as on a dark background but the contrast between highlight and "shadow" doesn't need to be as strong.

For a full face view on white butterfly is also ideal. Again it is a matter of matching lighting pattern to facial angle to achieve the goals of making the face appear symmetrical and slim. Butterfly will create the natural "mask" highlight pattern on the front of the face and also make the sides of the face darker, creating the needed contrast "frame" between the highlighted areas and the background.

While this may seem rather methodical, it is just a simple a process of common sense logical deductions based on stopping at each decision point - clothing - background - lighting - and asking "how can the FRONT of the face be made to contrast the most?" to achieve the more holistic goal of making the front of the face the center of attention nothing else will distract attention from. The face will attract attention regardless, so what this process really does is to help identify and eliminate potential distractions from the face, or as with the case of a pink dress competing with pink skin, at least minimize them.

Chuck






Nov 25, 2008 at 12:46 PM
ashokrai
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p.1 #14 · What did I do wrong....


Thanks Chuck,
I appreciate the steps you've laid out above. Sometimes I get to ahead of my self and select a background that I want before I see the kid. I like the step by step process you've outlined and I need to become more disciplined.

Ashok



Nov 26, 2008 at 12:21 AM
Thats Fresh
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p.1 #15 · What did I do wrong....


i think the black area around the subject is whats soaking all the light/reflection from her eyes. try placing a large reflector aimed up to her face from the ground.

Nov 26, 2008 at 02:02 AM




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