p.1 #1 · Are Kirk 20/30/40/50D plates actually different?
I haven't got a lot of high resolution photos at my disposal to check the camera bodies for myself, but I'm wondering:
I'm interested in getting a non-L, non-grip Kirk QR plate for my new-to-me 40D but it looks "expensive" to import direct/new from Kirk due to shipping and the shipping companies they choose (brokerage). I always prefer to save my $ and buy used but I've been lurking in FM B&S and posting to local Toronto/Canada forums and NOTHING. There are 30/20/10D plates around, however.
The 10/20/30/40/50D all use the same grip, BG-E2, which attaches intimately to the bottom of the camera just like a QR plate. Is there really a difference between the Kirk non-L plates for these cameras? Or are they just trying to sell more new items to suckers/customers who upgrade their gear?
p.1 #2 · Are Kirk 20/30/40/50D plates actually different?
Actually, the 10D uses a different grip that has a wider base than the grip for the 20/30/40/50. Some of the plates feature a wrap-around design that has lips on the front and back so they are less likely to rotate. This type of plate is really sensitive to the width of the base, so if it fits the 30D grip, it won't fit the 10D grip.
Looking at the RRS website, it appears the 20D and 30D non-grip plates are the same, but the 40D is different. They seem to be designed to exactly fit any subtle changes in the shape of the camera bodies.
p.1 #5 · Are Kirk 20/30/40/50D plates actually different?
They are all different.
I was thinking the same thing, but the lip around the bottom edge of the camera is a little different, especially on the 40D. I was thinking at least the 20D and 30D would be the same.
p.1 #6 · Are Kirk 20/30/40/50D plates actually different?
The Kirk 40D L-plate fits my 50D body perfectly (no battery grip). Can't imagine what/why they now offer a different model for the 50D.
The big difference between their 40D v. 30D L-plate was that the40D body is taller and slightly thicker, so those plates weren't interchangeable. Going back to the 30D v. 20D, the power switch was right on the lower edge of the 30D body, so that plate had a cutout for the switch, which the 20D plate lacked.
p.1 #7 · Are Kirk 20/30/40/50D plates actually different?
Each of the 10D/20D/30D/40D bodies are subtly different at the edges, and if the plate has been designed for a tight fit then it won't suit the next body.
The only place the 40D/50D bodies differ is in the size of the rubber doors at the left (covering the USB/remote/etc ports) and I think this is where L-plate designs will differ. Non-L plates should be identical. The change is small enough that I'm happy using my RRS 40D L-plate on a 50D.
But the 20D/30D/40D L-plates usually don't fit at all. The plates that are for use with the grip will have less difference though.
p.1 #8 · Are Kirk 20/30/40/50D plates actually different?
I could totally understand L-plates differing as the connectors and the shape of the integrated grip change through the revisions, I'm just surprised to find a simple plate for the bottom of the camera changing for each model. I appreciate that Kirk/RRS make fully customized brackets, but the fact that the BG-E2 fits at least the 20/30/40/50 (I stand corrected on the 10D) should mean the camera bottom profiles are very similar if not identical. If edges and shapes didn't line up between body and grip I'd expect complaints all over the place...
I guess I'll have to hold out for the real deal. In the US ordering a new one is $55+$8. Because Kirk only sells out of the US and ships FedEx, to get one to Canada it is $55 + ($30->$45) *1.30 exchange rate + (arbitrary FedEx brokerage charge $10->$40??) + 13% tax. That's a lot for a tiny little non-L plate ($136CDN best case, $192CDN worst case). At least I have my big, ugly generic QR that came with my BH-3 for now...
p.1 #9 · Are Kirk 20/30/40/50D plates actually different?
The same grip (BG-E2) fits the 20D through 50D, while their bottoms are all different, for a reason you seem to be not visualizing. Of course the tripod screw mount is the major point of contact, but the grips also have a pin that contacts the bottom of the body, and that large stalk which fills the body's battery compartment. That gives three points of contact to prevent grip from twisting on the body, and even so, you'll hear lots of complaints about poor contact between the BG-E2 grip and 20/30/40/50D bodies, resulting in intermittent electrical problems. (The same complaints don't seem to be there regarding the 10D or 5D grip, btw, which are constructed to a higher standard than the BG-E2). A "simple" camera plate from Kirk or RRS, requires a custom profile for each body because the bodies are in fact different if one looks just at the bottoms - Canon's doing, not Kirk's or RRS', so to guarantee a tight fit the plates must be different. I mentioned a few of the reasons in my first post (the power switch on the 30D, for example, versus the 20D). if that's not going to work for you becase of cost (again, not all Kirk's or RRS' doing), try a generic plate and move on. The fit may not be as tight, but that's what justifies the higher cost of a custom plate.
Why not have a look at these plates from Camdapter, which have the additional benefit of working with a hand strap:
p.1 #10 · Are Kirk 20/30/40/50D plates actually different?
Having never used a grip (yet), and only owning an xxD for a week, I wasn't aware that there were contact and fit issues with the -E2 grips since I had never really seen it mentioned (doesn't mean it wasn't, I just have never seen it). My main objective was to see if I could choose from a larger selection of second-hand custom QR plates - that's been clearly established as 'no'.
I have a Camdapter plate on my XT and it's worked out OK. If it comes to it, I may use a Camdapter again. I dislike feeling railroaded into a product choice not due to the cost of the product itself, but something as mundane as who the manufacturer chooses as a shipping company. I would gladly pay $55 for Kirk custom vs. $43 for Camdapter if that's all there was to it. Your indication of Camdapter being $49 "shipped" is only half of the story.
[ to address your clear defense of Kirk vs. Canon and "fault" of cost which is OT: Yes, Kirk's MSRP of $55 is something I'd pay (ie. cost for custom quality etc...) but it *IS* a choice of Kirk's to quote up to $45 for "international" shipping (whether Canada or Australia) and to only use Fedex even though they already ship USPS within the US. It does not cost $45 or even $30 to ship a flat QR plate from the US to Canada, and brokerage would be limited to $5 flat rate on my side if USPS was used. The point here is that the charges aren't all Kirk's, but they are a result of Kirk's policies and choices, so they aren't blameless in the matter either. From my experience, shipping should be more like $15 for USPS 4-10 business day service so $55+$15 * 1.30 exchange + 13% tax + $5 brokerage = $105CDN which is still a lot for a non-L plate but more palatable than up to $192.
I've asked Kirk if they'd ship USPS to me and I'm awaiting a reply so we'll see what happens there. ]
Thanks to all who have checked things out on their bodies to confirm these differences.
p.1 #12 · Are Kirk 20/30/40/50D plates actually different?
I buy and sell a bit of gear here on FM, and I'll rarely ship to Canada. Simple reason is it's a pain in the ass and usually not worth my time. When shipping within the US I can simply print a label online (USPS Priority, FedEx, or UPS), and that's all there is to it. The USPS will even pick my package up for free, so my total time invested is maybe 10 minutes, usually less. If I want to ship to Canada, I've got to fill out the customs forms, in triplicate, and stand in line at the post office. No one's time is free - not mine, not Kirk's or RRS'.
That's a lot for a tiny little non-L plate ($136CDN best case, $192CDN worst case). At least I have my big, ugly generic QR that came with my BH-3 for now...