I'm sure this question has been asked, but I can't find the right words to use...
I'd like to fire my SB-800 without attatching it to my D300... I know there is a way to do it, but I'm having trouble wording it. I don't think the pop-up flash is used in the photo (maybe as an infared to fire the external flash) but the SB-800 goes off for different lighting. Anyone have any answers or links to guide me through this process?
Set the SB-800 to remote and use the D300 flash in Commander mode to fire it. See your manuals for setting this up.
Or, use a hotshoe-to-strobe remote cord (e.g., sc-17, sc-29, etc.) to get it off the camera but still have it wired to the camera. The SB-800 is not in Remote mode with this configuration.
Or, set the SB-800 to SU-4 mode and slave it with any light in manual mode.
I'll be going with the first part of you advice. I'm looking to not use the pop-up flash, but the sb-800 should fire. Any suggestions into what mode or shutter speed, aperature? speed is not an issue, as the subject I'll be shooting will be stationary.
The SB-800 needs to see the D300 flash. You can adjust the output level on the D300 and the remote SB-800. So, if you don't want much, if any, exposure contribution from the D300 flash, then you can turn it down so that it's a stop or two under ambient or the output of the SB-800.
You can also gobo or deflect the D300 output from reaching your subject with your own "barn doors". There's also a shield you can use to block the visible output from being projected forward from the camera, but I don't have the link. Someone will post a link I'm sure.
Regarding settings and iTTL / CLS, first let us know what you plan to shoot. High shutter speeds (which you apparently don't need - i.e. 1/250 or more) require setting the camera to high speed sync (FP) mode. Do you want to use the flash as fill or as the dominant light source? Give us a little more info; that'll help us provide the best advice.
Slaving speedlights optically in bright sunlight is a challenge. You will have less working distance than you would have indoors. It can be done if you can work with limited distances between the lights. The relatively wimpy output from the D300 built-in flash will make this even harder.
First, you need to allow the D300 to communicate to the SB-800. Use Channel 1, Group A, for example. Again, consult your manual.
I'm guessing you want to overpower daylight to some extent by underexposing ambient by up to a stop and then add some fill to balance the car exposure with the speedlight. If this isn't correct, let us know.
Problem #1: You get more fill power from the flash at shorter distances, with higher ISO, and with wider apertures. The catch; however, is that in bright sun your shutter speed is going to peg way past 1/250, which exceeds the sync speed of the flash. This then requires setting the camera to high-speed sync (FP mode) in the menu so that you can use the flash at high shutter speeds. But the flash has less effective power in FP mode. You might need to put a ND filter on your lens.
Personally, I would set the camera to manual exposure and then dial-in the aperture and shutter speed you want to get the ambient exposure that works for you. Then take a shot, chimp, look at the flash exposure, and then adjust the flash output until you get the balanced fill that you need.
I think you're going to need a more powerful light or more speedlights.
The gadgets hanging below the speedlights don't look like Pocket Wizards or Skyports. They could be power packs.
That there could be done with CLS (using the pop up flash, a SB800 or SU800 as the trigger) or with a 3rd party solution like Pocket Wizards or Cactus (eBay) triggers.
This is what he did and it's what i'm trying to achieve...
Taylor: Yeah, I'm limited on 3rd party things like PW or Cactus... just need to learn a quick fix before the spring (indiana has a winter which usually results in snow hahah)
if you don't want the pop up contributing to the exposure like stated above turn it way down and put your hand in front of it, as long as the sensor see's the flash of light bownce off your hand your good, ie if the flash is to the left of your object angle your hand to the left so the flash still sees the light but little to none reach the subject, this is what I do...
My experience has been, unless you are working in close for macro work, setting the pop-up flash as a trigger only will not add any significant light to the scene. It may add a catch light though.
