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p.1 #12 · Merging sky and the foreground | |
slobodan wrote:
Check out one of the best (or the best, imho) book on Photoshop: Photoshop Artistry by Haynes, Crumpler and Duggan. Pages 388-397 deal with practically identical problem you have. Not sure feathering would work... you might just end up with a feathered but wider white halo. Most likely you would need to clone out the edge. However, there are no easy solutions, most would require meticulous work, perhaps even on a one-pixel level. After all, solutions to your problem are the holy grail of HDR blending.
Having said the above, I looked again your posted photo and realized that even if you would find a way to eliminate the white halo completely, that would not be the end of your work, only the beginning. The two parts of the image would still look artificially glued together, like paper cutouts. You would need to find other ways to create a more natural transitions. And no automated HDR software can do it for you. Currently, your non-sky area is uniformly lightened up, and that does not make much visual, perceptual or artistic sense. Areas closer to strong light source (i.e., tops of mountains or trees against sky) are naturally perceived as darker, vs. areas further away from the sky. In other words, your tree "piercing" the sky should not be uniformly lightened up, but should progress smoothly from the darker top down. Also, not everything in the non-sky area should be opened up fully. You would have to choose which areas contribute to your vision of the scene and composition and emphasize them by opening them up.
The trick is precisely to not use meticulous pixel by pixel methods, but rather to use very broad blending techniques. That's why I use gradient masks, and an eraser with diameter of around 300-1000px (for a 12mp 5D file) to fix the straight edge. Others, like Jim, like selection tools, but when you feather with the selection tools I think you use a very high radius, and that will get rid of the halo because it spreads it out more.
Think of a graduated neutral density filter, I found my blending abilities improved a lot after I started using one because I realized how the light needs to be blended. That is, when I take two separate exposures without a GND, I'll blend them in a similar way the GND would have, then I'll fix the hard edge. It's that very smooth mask that will create a natural looking progression of tones. A tree sticking out into the sky will be close to black, there's not much you can do about that without introducing halos, but think about it - when you see the scene in real life, the tree is close to black when against a bright evening sky, there are still details if you look close enough, but it's definitely pretty dark.
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