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p.2 #8 · Exposure Compensation -- Why? | |
astrolucida wrote:
Well, this is exactly how exposure compensation is changed in Canon DSLRs! So you are using exposure compensation. When the aperture is fixed in the Av mode, the only way to change the effective exposure is to change the shutter speed. Thus, e.g. dialing in +1 for exposure compensation (you can see it in the viewfinder, too), results in doubling the exposure time.
No, exposure compensation does not help that because it changes those exact parameters, resulting in exactly the same results as if you had manually selected the same settings. There is no exposure compensation function like the one you seem to be thinking of.
Let's summarize:
- exposure settings consist of aperture, shutter speed and ISO,
- for ISO you can either pick the value or use Auto (in some cameras),
- you can set both the aperture and the shutter speed if you use M mode,
- you can set the aperture in Av mode and the camera sets the shutter speed,
- you can set the shutter speed in Tv mode and the camera sets the aperture,
- the camera will set both shutter speed and aperture in P mode.
When the camera decides some of the values, it is basing that decision on the built-in exposure meter. If you want to change that decision, by a relative value, you dial in exposure compensation (-2 to +2 with 1/3 stop steps). If you want to set the absolute values, you use M mode. In that case, you will see, in relative terms, how the camera would set the exposure values, in the viewfinder.
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Excellent, you've justified the "lucid" portion of your name!
I want to stress one more point:
- Photographers have always used exposure compensation in manual mode!
Reading an exposure meter, selecting a combination of shutter speed and aperture that yields that exposure value, then altering one or both of them in the same direction (toward over or under exposure) is exposure compensation.
Hand held exposure meters often have a setting for exposure compensation. It could be accomplished by changing the ISO on the meter (not on the camera), but it can be simpler to set the dial to, say, -2 EV and have that bias apply to all readings in a particular circumstance regardless of what ISO, shutter speed, and aperture are chosen.
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