come on no politics should i but something now or wait ?
10 days that is way past your post saying 30 days.
I do not want to toss $$ in the wrong direction.
We are about to start every day shooting for the next 6 months. We should hit around 150 location sessions in that time.
I need to buy this month i can not wait any longer starting in May we will be slammed even the end of this months we are booked heavy.
E-mail me tell me something i will keep it to myself.
I all ready offered to buy a used or returned ab1600 and VB to use if you would let me send it back when the new stuff is out to trade it in for that.
I have a cart waiting to put stuff in for dragging it around.
Why is it people lose sight of the fact that it's okay to have your own opinion rather than being a bandwagon jumper every time a political discussion comes up? A step up in smarts shows you can disagree and it's okay as long as you're constructive about it.
cineski wrote:
Why is it people lose sight of the fact that it's okay to have your own opinion rather than being a bandwagon jumper every time a political discussion comes up? A step up in smarts shows you can disagree and it's okay as long as you're constructive about it.
A political debate is okay as long as it is a political debate, and doesn't stoop to ad hominem attacks.
But I question the appropriateness of such debates here. At another forum I frequent (and where I'm a moderator), we have subforums devoted to various topics, just like we do here at FM. One subforum is set aside for political and religious debate. If such debates pop up in the other fora, they are sent there or are terminated.
I think that would be a good idea here, too. I don't want a discussion about Einstein strobes to be hijacked by discussion about politics.
. It really does match the case you can see in the background!
btw, anyone know if the color temp of the WL or Einsteins change when used at 1/4 power or below? I've seen comments on other threads where people have said they didn't choose ABs because of this quirk (all strobes seem to change color temp a little bit at different power levels but it sounded like the ABs did a lot more at lower power levels).
I owned AB's for a short time and did not notice any color variations at lower settings. They functioned quite nicely, and while they have a few limitations, you would expect that of lights at this price point. Not too much you can't do with them.
btw, anyone know if the color temp of the WL or Einsteins change when used at 1/4 power or below? I've seen comments on other threads where people have said they didn't choose ABs because of this quirk (all strobes seem to change color temp a little bit at different power levels but it sounded like the ABs did a lot more at lower power levels).
My tests indicate that ABs and WLs decrease in color temperature at the same rate as other flash units of similar design age, losing about 200K at 1/4 power. ABs and WLs do, however, continue down to even lower power levels than most other flash units and continue to lose temperature as they do...but one must be careful to avoid comparing a Buff light at 1/32 to another light at 1/4.
Something bothers me about color temperature vs. power setting testing. When you conduct these tests, one must be aware of the conditions that the test is performed. So for instance, as you decrease the power, you are openning up the f stop to keep up with the power reduction. If there are other light sources around, they may be interfering with the result at lower f stops.
One would expect that xenon gas should be consistant when a current runs through it. There are a few ways to reduce the power. Keeping the voltage on the capacitors constant and removing capacitors, is one way. Or, keeping all the capacitors available for discharge and variing the voltage would be another way. Another method would be to keep all voltage and capacitors in play and shut off the discharge when the appropriate power was discharged. The questions is, which meithod would yield the best consistancy. Also, does the flash tube temperature change the results. That is to say, if you start out high and dial down, do you get the same result as if you started cold at the lowest setting and worked your way up?
Something bothers me about color temperature vs. power setting testing. When you conduct these tests, one must be aware of the conditions that the test is performed. So for instance, as you decrease the power, you are openning up the f stop to keep up with the power reduction. If there are other light sources around, they may be interfering with the result at lower f stops.
Yes, that's something the tester should be aware of. The tests should ideally be run with the exposures made in near darkness.
The questions is, which meithod would yield the best consistancy. Also, does the flash tube temperature change the results. That is to say, if you start out high and dial down, do you get the same result as if you started cold at the lowest setting and worked your way up?
The test should be run in both directions--at least that's how I'd design it.
Something bothers me about color temperature vs. power setting testing. When you conduct these tests, one must be aware of the conditions that the test is performed. So for instance, as you decrease the power, you are openning up the f stop to keep up with the power reduction. If there are other light sources around, they may be interfering with the result at lower f stops.
One would expect that xenon gas should be consistant when a current runs through it. There are a few ways to reduce the power. Keeping the voltage on the capacitors constant and removing capacitors, is one way. Or, keeping all the capacitors available for discharge and variing the voltage would be another way. Another method would be to keep all voltage and capacitors in play and shut off the discharge when the appropriate power was discharged. The questions is, which meithod would yield the best consistancy. Also, does the flash tube temperature change the results. That is to say, if you start out high and dial down, do you get the same result as if you started cold at the lowest setting and worked your way up? ...Show more →
The best way to test them is under the real-world conditions that you typically use the lights. If you test them under rigid conditions in which you don't normally shoot, then any abnormalities are irrelevant. If I typically use a lens in studio within the f8-11 range and it gets the job done to my satisfaction, then any issues I might see at f2 matter not a bit. If you go looking for problems, you will most certainly find them.
RDKirk wrote:
My tests indicate that ABs and WLs decrease in color temperature at the same rate as other flash units of similar design age, losing about 200K at 1/4 power. ABs and WLs do, however, continue down to even lower power levels than most other flash units and continue to lose temperature as they do...but one must be careful to avoid comparing a Buff light at 1/32 to another light at 1/4.
The Einsteins haven't been released yet.
This is fully correct. All mono flash units that have variable power via variable voltage (about 95% of all, including Eli RX600, Profotos and such, and most others) drop color temperature at about 75-80°k per f stop. Of course a light that goes to 1/32 power will have more color shift than one that only goes to 1/8 power. If you want to compare lights, do it at the same power reduction. A Corvette at 150 mph has more wind noise than a Honda Civic at 50 mph.
As for WL and Zeus, when you drop to 1/4 power the color is the same as at full power. This is a plus, not a negative. You get 1/126 power range at the same color shift as 1/32 power with "standard" units. You also get much faster durations at 1/4 power.
One caveat: Every color meter I have used varies in reading dramatically depending on the intensity of light it sees. Take a reading at 10', then move it to 5' and you may see 200° difference from the same light at the same settings. And no, this isn't caused by room colors, etc - it's the meter's non-linearities. I have two Minoltas and a Gossen. I have learned to use RAW and actual shots to determine actual color in the real world.
Even then you will see 200° variations on the various grey densities on a quality grey card - so cameras have the same non-linearity problems, I find Nikons better than Canons in this regard.
Paul Buff wrote:
As for WL and Zeus, when you drop to 1/4 power the color is the same as at full power. This is a plus, not a negative. You get 1/126 power range at the same color shift as 1/32 power with "standard" units. You also get much faster durations at 1/4 power.
Thanks for confirming, Paul. I suspected the WL/Zeus might have better color tolerances
?
. It really does match the case you can see in the background! 