Canon 10D
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crfrey71 wrote:
I set my color balance the same. That way I try and minimize the color shift and average it the best. I do a color balance at 1/60 sec with my expodisc. I also use a Gretag color checker and take a few shots at different ISOs, mostly to get a nice color profile so I can set a make a nice noise profilefor ISO's I might use at that venue. It also provides another nice reference.
If you don't have the 1D, the trick is to shoot a neutral grey card or color chart at 8 fps or so with proper shutter speed so that the color shift is in phase/sync with the light cycle and then use those grey card or color chart images as references during post-processing with the hope that your images color casts fall into one of these references. The key is to use proper shutter speed so that the images are in phase/sync with the light cycle. If they are not in phase/sync, you will see gradient (such as half or multi-color cast or as what satxbiker called "half a picture get caught between changes") instead of a constant color cast throughout an image. If you get the multi-color cast, it is almost impossible to do WBing or color correction in post-processing. You will see gradient or multi-color cast if it is not in phase/sync with the light cycle because of the CMOS mechanical shutter (the leafs movement) as Hammy pointed out.
In 1D (CCD camera), you won't see gradient or multi-color cast, but instead an uniform color cast because of its electronic shutter (CCD turns on and off) when the shutter leafs are fully opened (the whole CCD is exposed), which makes post-processing in WBing or color correction easier. CMOS needs mechanical shutter because CMOS can't turn on and off as fast as CCD. The mechanical vs. electronic shutter is also why 1D Mark II and newer models have slower x-sync speed compared with the 1D, which a lot of sports photogs cried about when Canon first introduced the 1D Mark II. The slower x-sync is really not a problem is you use arena strobes that overpower the ambient by two stops or more since it's the flash duration that stops the action.
In other words, for CMOS cameras, using proper shutter speed so that images are in phase/sync with the light cycle (i.e., uniform color cast instead of multi-color cast); hence, makes color correction easier during post-processing, even if you don't shoot grey card or color chart references. Images with multi-color cast, even with grey card or color chart references, are almost impossible to do color correction.
Hope I didn't add more confusion to Dennis 
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