I used it until recently (sold it 2 months ago)... got annoyed by the .TIF files that screw up a bit of my workflow... also for the fact that it doesn't auto rotate vertical shots. But that's just PP... the results are still fantastic for must uses. Sharper than anything I've shot with. And very film-like, may I add.
I use one, and am very happy with it when there's enough light. Actually, I can't really imagine a better body for shooting sports with artificial light, because it has an electronic shutter and can sync up to 1/2000th if you need it to. Great autofocus too.
The JPG's look great, I use parameter set 2 and color mode 3. I don't really like shooting RAW because neither the Windows thumbnailer or Photo Mechanic can browse them properly, so reviewing and editing is a pain. Plus, when I process them in ACR, the reds always look a little off, and I never like the overall color rendition. If I can fix it by shooting an easier to deal with format, that also gives me more space on the card and unloads the buffer faster, I will...
Bought a pristine 1D (under 2k actuations) about a year ago as my first (and still only) DSLR, and absolutely love this camera. Even though I'm not an advanced photographer and it was a steep curve learning how to use it, I consistently get really good images with it. Coming from Panasonic/Leica digicams (terrible at high ISO), I find the noise at 1600 pretty decent if exposed properly. This camera is really sharp and focusing speed is like nothing I ever experienced. There are times when I wished I had something less heavy and bulky, but then I see the images coming out of this camera and I'm a very happy with the beast.
I still use mine, and ONLY have the 1D, despite owning a few larger file II series.
The straight out of the camera quality of this dinosaur is unreal. I post process way less with files out of my 1D.
The autofocus is lightning fast. Use it for my son's soccer games, and get way many keepers than with a 20D I used to have.
The file size is such a plus, I can't over-emphasize this. Working with files is quicker, less storage space needed, etc. Just dont expect to crop a whole lot.
The noise issue is over-rated. Higher iso looks like high quality film if exposed near properly. A very nice look.
I think this camera is one of, if not THE BEST bargain in digital cameras today. Get one a try it out for yourself. If you don't like it, turn around and sell it, you should be able to break close to even with little loss if you don't like it.
Other digital SLRs have come and gone, now I'm down to just my 1D as my sole body.
I shoot mainly my daughters LL ball and gymnastics, and let me tell you this is one kicka$$ sports camera. I've always shot RAW until I saw the out-of-camera .jpg's from this beast. They are sharp and beautiful, with a 3d-type quality that the 1.6 crops just don't have (very subjective, I know).
Sure it chews batteries like crazy (well...I use 1 & 1/2 for 6 innings of ball), but the aftermarket ones yield more shots than the original and are cheap to boot. Small file sizes are a joy to work with, and the 4GB cards DO work to their full capacity (~1290 high-quality .jpg's @ iso 200).
I must admit, I was really concerned over the high-iso noise that everyone writes about, but that issue is REALLY overblown. I just shot a ballgame over the weekend almost exclusively at iso 3200, and the grain-like noise cleaned up really well with a little Noise Ninja..I was shocked, really. I honestly didn't realize that iso 3200 on this cam was really that usable. As long as I exposed to the right a bit the noise wasn't a problem.
The 1D does underexpose so I generally leave it at +2/3 comp, but that is really consistent, whether I'm shooting in low indoor light or on a sunny beach.
If you can find one for sale under $1k, grab it...I think there's one on the Buy & Sell right now for ~ $750...
I keep one around that I'll never sell. It looks like someone tossed it in the back of a truck and drove across the country.
The images are the best output straight out of camera I've ever seen, and I've used nearly everything out there. I'm referring to color, sharpness, highlight detail, more aesthetically pleasant noise patterns, and a lot of that undefinable "it" that makes an image hold the eye.
The body's a tank - I loan mine to shooters I'm training quite often, with instructions not to baby it. I also take it out by the pool for family/friends fun shots - can splash it with water or grab it with hands dripping straight from the pool with no worries for damage, since its water sealed and even if the sealing fails, its just a cheap 1D, just buy another one.
Can't print as large, that's what the 1ds2 is for, but for most work, its enough, and the workflow speed with those "baby" files is a joy.
I don't usually get attached to my cameras - they're tools. But I really really like the 1D.
thebmrust wrote:
I just picked up a 1D but notice my whites blow out more so than on my 10D. Only shoot RAW (TIF).
Anyone care to share their custom functions?
Still, I am thinking about getting another one soon.
Jon Buder wrote:
The JPG's look great, I use parameter set 2 and color mode 3. I don't really like shooting RAW because neither the Windows thumbnailer or Photo Mechanic can browse them properly, so reviewing and editing is a pain. Plus, when I process them in ACR, the reds always look a little off, and I never like the overall color rendition. If I can fix it by shooting an easier to deal with format, that also gives me more space on the card and unloads the buffer faster, I will...
Jon, I had the same experience using ACR with my 1D files. Max Simbron suggested using DPP, which I did. Much nicer results. Bonus: it's free.
Thanks for the curves link. I found those a week or so ago but didn't try them since I shoot RAW (TIF) and I thought the curves were for JPG shooters. Heck, maybe I should go back to JPG's or I'm being an idiot and not reading it right. I'll re-read the descriptions.
I do also remember one of the SportsShooters having a custom curve for his 1D and a few actions for PS. I don't remember if it was Max Simbron (Pshizzy), Carl Auer, Paul Alesse or who it was. Since I didn't have a 1D at the time I wasn't worried about it.
Thanks for the curves link. I found those a week or so ago but didn't try them since I shoot RAW (TIF) and I thought the curves were for JPG shooters. Heck, maybe I should go back to JPG's or I'm being an idiot and not reading it right. I'll re-read the descriptions.
I do also remember one of the SportsShooters having a custom curve for his 1D and a few actions for PS. I don't remember if it was Max Simbron (Pshizzy), Carl Auer, Paul Alesse or who it was. Since I didn't have a 1D at the time I wasn't worried about it.
Brent, my bad, you're right. You noted clearly you shoot only RAW and the curves are relevant to 1D(s) jpegs and to the LCD histogram. Missed that. I'm the confused one, not you. --Mike
Mike Tuomey wrote:
Brent, my bad, you're right. You noted clearly you shoot only RAW and the curves are relevant to 1D(s) jpegs and to the LCD histogram. Missed that. I'm the confused one, not you. --Mike
i am interested in seeing more examples of the high ISO examples. I currently have a Rebel Xt and I am dying to upgrade since i am in college and shooting fulltime for the newspaper their now among other things so i feel it is a necessity for me to get a 1D series camera I just dont have the money to drop on a 1D markII or the IIN.
more high ISO please =]
also is the high iso a lot better through the mkII or the mkIIN compared to the 1D mkI?
I'd keep the XT and save up for the 1D if I were you, there are situations where it's a better tool than the 1D. The high ISO on the 1D is definitely more grainy than the XT, and exposures longer than a couple seconds are absolutely no contest (I could do 45 minute exposures on the XT that looked cleaner than 10 second ones on the 1D).
The autofocus and build quality, worlds better. Viewfinder too.
The good thing about the CCD sensor is that the color rendition and DR don't really change at high ISO's. The XT/20/30 are all a lot cleaner in the shadows, but they blow the highlights easier at high ISO. The 1D can look great with enough light and no huge dark spots. This is 800: http://jonbuder.com/images/valerie.jpg
And this is 1600 (not a great shot, but notice how it holds the highlights pretty well - it was a typical new mexico summer midday sun, and reasonably thick shade): http://jonbuder.com/images/AD4F1876.jpg
No NR was used on these. There's obviously more grain visible at 100%, but the second one I linked looks great in an 8x10 print.
Andrew , congrats on your purchase,
the 1D is a great camera . I use it upto ISO1250.
I have just purchased a mkii so my mki is having a well deserve rest.
