I just ordered the new Zeiss 135 f/2 ZE. I plan on using this lens along with my 200 f2L IS for the bridal portraits (Bride and Groom only, not the bridal party/family group shots).
I shoot with a Profoto Acute B2 600 Air S/R pack. It has one single Profoto head with 2.3' Profoto octabox held up on a boom pole by my assistant.
This setup is new to me. With this light, I've been shooting at around f/5.6 at 1/200 ISO 100. I want to be shooting these portraits with my PF light at f2.0-3.2. I'm considering a B+W 0.6 ND filter to make this work and I'm curious if a Kasemenn Nano Polarizer will give a similar effect. I want a more natural looking light with nice bokeh and looking for any tips or suggestions on how to get this look and still get all the benefits of the Profoto pack.
Tell your assistant to move back a bit. Sounds like you have then right next to subject. At ISO 100 and low power I would think f2 is not a problem. I have an acute b 600 too
Yeah, I always have her close. In school I thought they said get as close as possible (just outside the frame) for the softest light.
I'll def try having her stand back a bit. What settings do you normally use? I'm usually at Power -2 and the knob part to MAX.
I want just enough light to get the nice colors, nice blue sky and catchlights in the eyes while keeping a natural light look if that makes sense. Kurtis, can you put a link to some of your photos where you used this same Profoto light. I'd love to see what your images look like.
Yes technically for the softest light you want the biggest modifier as close as possible outside the frame. However if it's too powerful, move that shit back, simple as that.
And perhaps, this is a crazy idea, but maybe you should try setting it to -4 on the switch and MIN on the dial if you're not able to stop down enough. It's just crazy enough to work.
Seeing what photos of mine I used it for aren't going to help you, go experiment with what you've got until you get the results you want. It's pretty easy if you put a little time into it.
TTLKurtis wrote:
Yes technically for the softest light you want the biggest modifier as close as possible outside the frame. However if it's too powerful, move that shit back, simple as that.
And perhaps, this is a crazy idea, but maybe you should try setting it to -4 on the switch and MIN on the dial if you're not able to stop down enough. It's just crazy enough to work.
Seeing what photos of mine I used it for aren't going to help you, go experiment with what you've got until you get the results you want. It's pretty easy if you put a little time into it....Show more →
Sounds like he's talking about shooting outside, so f/2 would give too high a shutter to sync to... hence the ND question.
I agree on getting a .9. Better too have too much ND than not enough.
The ND would be to knock down the background a bit, and as has been said, more is better here. 5.6-> 2.0 is 3 stops, so 8x (.9) would be the minimum you need to have the background be the same brightness.
If you are having an issue with flash power, just turn it down or back it up.
Tony Hoffer wrote:
Sounds like he's talking about shooting outside, so f/2 would give too high a shutter to sync to... hence the ND question.
I agree on getting a .9. Better too have too much ND than not enough.
If you're not shooting in bright sunlight and you're shooting at ISO 100, you should be able to pull off f/2 at 1/250. Not sure about you guys but typically if I am using the big light I'm shooting in the evening and not trying to blast away the sun while shooting at f2 in mid-day sun.
The reason I've never messed with ND for portraits is the viewfinder becomes so dim, can't stand that. It's fine for landscapes and stuff but for people, that would drive me craaaazy
BostonGreg wrote:
Kurtis looks like you use the two light attachment on your pack, thats why I asked. Thanks
Generally I do not use that, especially not outdoors. That was a special circumstance for Profoto testing out the new gear. I am actually using it tomorrow though for some headshots with one acuteb600 for my background lights and two d1 1000's for my key/rim lights.
TTLKurtis wrote:
If you're not shooting in bright sunlight and you're shooting at ISO 100, you should be able to pull off f/2 at 1/250. Not sure about you guys but typically if I am using the big light I'm shooting in the evening and not trying to blast away the sun while shooting at f2 in mid-day sun.
The reason I've never messed with ND for portraits is the viewfinder becomes so dim, can't stand that. It's fine for landscapes and stuff but for people, that would drive me craaaazy
The sun in Texas must be different . Even with ISO50, I have to shoot it at 5.6 or 4. I am usually happy with the result and do not use an ND filter.
sboerup wrote:
B+W 77mm .9-8x #103 filter is the one I use. Too much ND is better than not enough.
Okay so question... is that a variable ND filter or just 8x? I could maybe see using the variable ND since you set it to minimum walking around and then crank it up just when you need it without screwing/unscrewing a filter.
I have a B+W 1000x ND that I purchased for a specific series of 60-second exposures mid-day in New York where all the people walking around are pretty much a blur while the environment remains sharp. Obviously when you look through the camera with a 1000x ND filter all you see is darkness... lol, so it's not something you'd use for portraits.
I do have a Lee Filter kit with graduated NDs, polarizer, etc. which I've used for landscape stuff, I just can't see myself using that for people. Of course, I don't use a lot of OCF to begin with in my portraits and when I do it's right before the sun sets.
Example: Shot this with an AcuteB 600 w/ the split head cable, had two heads on pretty lower power in a 3x4 softbox and a zoom reflector. Shot at ISO 200, 1/200 w/ 35mm f/1.4 at f/1.8...
. Even with ISO50, I have to shoot it at 5.6 or 4. I am usually happy with the result and do not use an ND filter.