So is it normal for a pull zoom like my Canon 35-350 L or a Canon 100-400 L IS to be sorta rough when zooming even with the zoom tension ring set all the way to smooth? It is almost impossible for me to get a smooth range going back and forth from 35 to 350. It seems that Canon won't repair my Canon 35-350 L since it is an old lens and that they can only do cleaning inside the lens like front element dust and such.
I've researched forums about this problem and several people have found success with a small amount of WD-40 sprayed on to a cloth and then wiped down on the barrel extended. They said it helped lubricate the lens barrel and solved the sticky zoom action and made it smooth again.
However, I'm weary about this too since I've researched at the same time that it is not safe to use WD-40 even on the lens barrel. Would this be the case even if I applied a little bit on a microfibre cloth?
Are there any other safe lubricants I can use to help solve the sticky push/pull action of my 35-350 L? Thanks in advance my fellow FM brothers and sisters.
The site below is wear one guy "TZ" said he put a small amoutn of WD-40 on lens barrel to free up the zoom push pull action.
You probably need to send it to an independent repair shop. It's not uncommon for the Kevlar-like fabric used in the friction lock to deteriorate. If yours is not "flaking" into small chunks, you may be able to get some relief (at least for a while) with a light machine oil, like 3-in-1 or Kroil wiped very lightly on the barrel (an old T-shirt would be fine to wipe on and wipe off). WD40 has more volatile components and dissolving power, so stay away from that. As long as you don't damage the paint surfaces, you have nothing to lose -- the lens really should go for repair at some point.
Good luck, and let us know if you get any improvement.
Gunzorro wrote:
You probably need to send it to an independent repair shop. It's not uncommon for the Kevlar-like fabric used in the friction lock to deteriorate. If yours is not "flaking" into small chunks, you may be able to get some relief (at least for a while) with a light machine oil, like 3-in-1 or Kroil wiped very lightly on the barrel (an old T-shirt would be fine to wipe on and wipe off). WD40 has more volatile components and dissolving power, so stay away from that. As long as you don't damage the paint surfaces, you have nothing to lose -- the lens really should go for repair at some point.
Good luck, and let us know if you get any improvement....Show more →
Thanks Gunzorro. I did go to a local shop here in D.C. but they said they could not do anything about it. They can only clean inside the lens like dust in front element which is the same thing Canon told me. I'll keep you posted. Thanks.
Gunzorro wrote:
You probably need to send it to an independent repair shop. It's not uncommon for the Kevlar-like fabric used in the friction lock to deteriorate. If yours is not "flaking" into small chunks, you may be able to get some relief (at least for a while) with a light machine oil, like 3-in-1 or Kroil wiped very lightly on the barrel (an old T-shirt would be fine to wipe on and wipe off). WD40 has more volatile components and dissolving power, so stay away from that. As long as you don't damage the paint surfaces, you have nothing to lose -- the lens really should go for repair at some point.
Good luck, and let us know if you get any improvement....Show more →
You think using this would be safe since this is in pen form?
I'm suggesting a very thin application (just enough to sheen the surface) via cloth (T-shirt), wiped off with dry T-shirt). I have a lot of gun lubricants and protectants on hand. My top choice would be trying a teflon-based oil such as Tetra Gun, or a dry lubricant such as Hornady Spray Lube. You don't want ANY oily build-up -- you are only trying to lightly clean the surface area, leaving a hint of lubricant behind. That's were a dry lube or an artificial wax nature comes in handy and would be my top choice. If you are careful to not make any dusty particles, a tiny bit of car wax could be tried instead on a very light application -- just a tiny bit on a cloth or tissue. Don't apply any lubricant or protectant directly to the surface -- only the smallest amount onto a cloth or tissue.
There are other independent camera repair shops -- perhaps someone can chime in. I seem to recall one named "Midwest".
I'm suggesting a very thin application (just enough to sheen the surface) via cloth (T-shirt), wiped off with dry T-shirt). I have a lot of gun lubricants and protectants on hand. My top choice would be trying a teflon-based oil such as Tetra Gun, or a dry lubricant such as Hornady Spray Lube. You don't want ANY oily build-up -- you are only trying to lightly clean the surface area, leaving a hint of lubricant behind. That's were a dry lube or an artificial wax nature comes in handy and would be my top choice. If you are careful to not make any dusty particles, a tiny bit of car wax could be tried instead on a very light application -- just a tiny bit on a cloth or tissue. Don't apply any lubricant or protectant directly to the surface -- only the smallest amount onto a cloth or tissue.
There are other independent camera repair shops -- perhaps someone can chime in. I seem to recall one named "Midwest". ...Show more →
Sorry forgot to link you this. This is the pen form WD-40 I'm talking about.
Since you don't have any of these types of polishes, lubricants or protectants on hand, and are not really familiar with them, my advice is to leave the lens alone and find a repair shop. Don't mess with it if you aren't proficient in this area.
That's a great lens, and it deserves proper care.
Check with these guys, and ask for other recommended repair shops.
Since you don't have any of these types of polishes, lubricants or protectants on hand, and are not really familiar with them, my advice is to leave the lens alone and find a repair shop. Don't mess with it if you aren't proficient in this area.
That's a great lens, and it deserves proper care.
Check with these guys, and ask for other recommended repair shops.
"Some missing parts inside the zoom and exterior (two mini screws) of the zoom lock mechanism which is the reason why it does not push pull smoothly. The push pull action is still usable but sometimes can be rough and need to exert force to zoom."
Maybe the missing parts is what you need for a smooth zoom operation?
"Some missing parts inside the zoom and exterior (two mini screws) of the zoom lock mechanism which is the reason why it does not push pull smoothly. The push pull action is still usable but sometimes can be rough and need to exert force to zoom."
Maybe the missing parts is what you need for a smooth zoom operation?
Unfortunately the parts of this lend are no longer available. To me though. Even when I had all the parts, it still was not smooth so it has to be s lubrication problem.
Ah! Missing parts! That's a different matter and really complicates things. Sorry you didn't keep all the parts.
Definitely find a repair shop that will fix, and send it in for repair. Otherwise, you can only sell for "parts and repair" not getting very much for it.
Don't try to use it or lubricate -- you have bigger problems.
Since you don't have any of these types of polishes, lubricants or protectants on hand, and are not really familiar with them, my advice is to leave the lens alone and find a repair shop. Don't mess with it if you aren't proficient in this area.
That's a great lens, and it deserves proper care.
Check with these guys, and ask for other recommended repair shops.
If you have to fix it yourself, here is something to consider. One common cause for 'sticky' is the zoom-lock ring. Beneath the zoom-lock ring are a large number of small silicone-like balls that control the variable friction (by squeezing the balls against the barrel). If you remove the screws that hold the zoom-lock ring on, you can (will) clear out the balls and the push-pull action will become smooth again. But the zoom-lock wont work any more. These little balls are *tiny*, and I have no idea how to put them back in. I suspect the same little balls are used in the 100-400, so a service shop might be able to make that fix. Canon fixed my sticking 35-350 about 10 years ago with that simple procedure (replacing the balls that I took out because I was curious).
Just to be clear - if you remove the zoom-lock ring you *will* dump all the balls out. If you want to keep them, remove the ring in a shallow pan to catch them.
sljarriel wrote:
If you have to fix it yourself, here is something to consider. One common cause for 'sticky' is the zoom-lock ring. Beneath the zoom-lock ring are a large number of small silicone-like balls that control the variable friction (by squeezing the balls against the barrel). If you remove the screws that hold the zoom-lock ring on, you can (will) clear out the balls and the push-pull action will become smooth again. But the zoom-lock wont work any more. These little balls are *tiny*, and I have no idea how to put them back in. I suspect the same little balls are used in the 100-400, so a service shop might be able to make that fix. Canon fixed my sticking 35-350 about 10 years ago with that simple procedure (replacing the balls that I took out because I was curious).
Just to be clear - if you remove the zoom-lock ring you *will* dump all the balls out. If you want to keep them, remove the ring in a shallow pan to catch them....Show more →
Its funny you mentioned your story cause the same thing happened to me and I got over curious and turned ring and all the tiny balls came out. It is somewhat smooth but not silky. Thats why I wanted to dry lube the barrel with cloth to reduce friction and maybe it will be silky smooth. Dont care about lens creep since I can use lens band. Any thoughts?
senzazn12 wrote:
Its funny you mentioned your story cause the same thing happened to me and I got over curious and turned ring and all the tiny balls came out. It is still somewhat smooth but not silky. Thats why I wanted to dry lube the barrel with cloth to reduce friction and maybe it will be silky smooth. Dont care about lens creep since I can use lens band. Any thoughts?
You need to have the lens fixed (have someone stick new tiny balls in). Lubing the lens may work for a short time, but it is not a fix. Also, lube may find its way inside the lens and that would be a much bigger problem then you already have. (explaining how you got lube inside your lens is yet another problem...)
Lesson- Dont be so curious. Curosity kills cats and lenses.
Oh, and stop playing with your long lens, your tiny balls, and the lube...Youll grow hair on your palms.
