p.1 #1 · Different results with TC on different bodies
Gear:
D700
D300
300mm f/2.8 AF-I
TC20EIII
When I shoot with the TC and D700, images are tack sharp with absolutely no fine tune. When I shoot with the TC and D300 images have a very soft focus effect. No amount of fine tune bring the images to an acceptable level; neither direction on fine tune really makes any difference. Of course, shooting without the TC, there is no issue. It is bad enough with the TC and D300 that the images are just unacceptable.
Is this the nature of the beast or am I missing something? I've done test after test always getting the same result.
p.1 #2 · Different results with TC on different bodies
So, two things:
- Your pixel density is MUCH less on your D700, so the softness introduced by a teleconverter is less noticeable.
- Have you tried taking autofocus out of the equation? Use live view to achieve critical focus on both cameras, take a shot, and look at them on the computer. If manually focused images are acceptably sharp, then at least you know the issue is only with the autofocus tuning.
p.1 #4 · Different results with TC on different bodies
Interesting... well, frankly, I was never happy with the results out of the TC20EII, though I never tried the III. Can you post some examples?
I'm mostly interested that you say they are "tack sharp" on the D700 but unacceptable on the D300... that's a pretty big spread. There will absolutely be some difference because of the differences in pixel density.
p.1 #6 · Different results with TC on different bodies
I agree different sensors will make a difference (plus AF fine tuning). I was very dissapointed with my 1.4 TC on the D200. Since moving to the D3, it's a different story. It works great.
p.1 #8 · Different results with TC on different bodies
Jason_Brook wrote:
Here's one from the D700, don't have any readily available from the D300.
Well, there's smearing of the feather detail (and it looks like you were close)
Also this combo appears to be slightly front focused...look at the blades of grass.
I loved the TC-17E II with the 300 on the D300 but never cared for the TC-20E III.
You might want to clean contacts as well as blow out the AF sensor slits, dust in
the area can affect AF accuracy w/wo TC's...I'd do mine once a month, religiously.
FWIW, the lowly AF-S 300 f4 (properly tuned) with the TC-20E III looks like this on FX
...check out the gains of sand by his butt..your f2.8 should do even better!!
p.1 #9 · Different results with TC on different bodies
trenchmonkey wrote:
Well, there's smearing of the feather detail (and it looks like you were close)
Also this combo appears to be slightly front focused...look at the blades of grass.
I loved the TC-17E II with the 300 on the D300 but never cared for the TC-20E III.
You might want to clean contacts as well as blow out the AF sensor slits, dust in
the area can affect AF accuracy w/wo TC's...I'd do mine once a month, religiously.
FWIW, the lowly AF-S 300 f4 (properly tuned) with the TC-20E III looks like this on FX
...check out the gains of sand by his butt..your f2.8 VR should do even better!! ...Show more →
Look at the dove's eye. I was very close, so the eye is damn near the only thing in the focus plane.
Where are the AF sensor slits? Never known to blow them out.
p.1 #10 · Different results with TC on different bodies
Explain the blades of grass IN FOCUS at the base of it's tail
BTW, your mower needs sharpening. On sticks and gimbal it
should be a sharper combo than my f4 handhelds...just sayin'
p.1 #12 · Different results with TC on different bodies
Beneath the mirror, bottom (lower L and R) of the sensor. MLU and then blow in same direction for a few passes.
My point re: using the TC-2E III...feather smearing, you have it in spades. You won't see it nearly as bad using the TC-17E II
Believe it or not...I don't make this stuff up.
p.1 #13 · Different results with TC on different bodies
trenchmonkey wrote:
Beneath the mirror, bottom (lower L and R) of the sensor. MLU and then blow in same direction for a few passes.
My point re: using the TC-2E III...feather smearing, you have it in spades. You won't see it nearly as bad using the TC-17E II
Believe it or not...I don't make this stuff up.
Is the smearing always present or is it come and go? I see a lot of crap I don't like when using the TC20III, but I'm new to big glass and attribute most of it to bad technique. It's taken a few months to realize just how small my DOF really is at 600mm.
p.1 #14 · Different results with TC on different bodies
Yeah, it's usually there and unfortunately increases in proportion to distance. Fur and feathers is tough,
the guys that shoot aircraft don't have to deal with this as much. Rivets viewed at 100% look like rivets.
That's why lots of wildlife guys will only use the TC-14E II on their prime glass and crop as necessary.
For example...this would have more detail with the 14/17 TC's and why I don't like the 20 for my use.
p.1 #16 · Different results with TC on different bodies
I found that the 1.7x + cropping gave me similar results at long distances to the 2.0x, and noticeably better results at shorter distances... and MUCH better results for the same framing (i.e. I had to be closer with the 1.7x but the results were significantly better).
p.1 #18 · Different results with TC on different bodies
Jason_Brook wrote:
Is the 17 that much better than the 20? I definitely notice things going to hell quickly at longer distances.
I think you'll find the 1.7 a "happy medium" between the 1.4 and 2.0 and as with any of the TC's...
stopping down 2/3 to 1 full stop yields the best IQ. Here's a handheld heavy crop...
The 16 X 20 metal print was stunning (cropped a lil tighter than this)
p.1 #19 · Different results with TC on different bodies
guys... don't let monkey get in your head... ... He does have one of the best techniques out here with long glass. So beware when you try to reproduce work similar to his. Have you ever seen his arms? They provide more support than a gimbal head when used with his shoulder support