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| p.7 #16 · p.7 #16 · “Full Frame Equivalence” and Why It Doesn’t Matter |
That makes sense to me. Of course, this would assume that all of your students use the same format size. If not, the "range" may differ between students.
The "range" differs between lens to, but all I'm teaching is how to get the most of what you have.
Most people starting out today are using a rebel with the kit lens. Many will never buy another lens at all, or another camera (until it stops working). They didn't come from film, but they are 'moving up' from a smartphone or compact digital camera. Their mindset is of someone who is trying to take photography more seriously and wants to take photos that look more like 'real photographers'. They have a normal social life and most of their photos are of their friends, kids, pets, etc. They might have some casual interest in landscape, macro, sports, or such. Other than the kit lens, the first lens they buy is often either a cheap telephoto zoom or a cheap 50mm prime.
Aperture is just another setting that the camera lets you control.
So the basics are that a higher AV (as shown on the camera) means relatively less light and also increases the depth of field. Wide open for situations where you want to have the highest shutter speed, lowest ISO, most background blur, etc. One to two stops down for when you want the best sharpness on a typical lens. And f/8, f/16 when you want to have everything in focus.
Shutter Speed (TV), ISO, etc. should be covered similarly (since they are also things the camera lets you control).