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Archive 2013 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.

  
 
Avi B
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p.2 #1 · p.2 #1 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


If you feel that your handholding technique is good, then start by improving your grip strength and also improve your core body strength.



Jan 10, 2013 at 08:00 PM
Zebrabot
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p.2 #2 · p.2 #2 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


hijazist wrote:
Honestly, I like the before a lot better. The one on the right is unflattering and looks like HDR, but maybe that's just me


The sharpened one is garish.




Jan 10, 2013 at 08:01 PM
dennishh
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p.2 #3 · p.2 #3 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


It looks to me like you've got a back focusing problem combined with to slow shutter speed giving you a little bit of motion blur from the camera. It's hard to tell but in the first shot seems like the railing in back of your subject is in focus. Your camera lenses can be calibrated manually. I would try doing that first then put the ISO and f-stop a little bit higher so your shutter speed is at least double your focal length. If that doesn't work try a tripod and see if your moving the camera when you're shooting. Practice releasing your shutter and watching one of the lines in the viewfinder matched up with the background point and see if it moves when you click the shutter. Good luck!


Jan 10, 2013 at 09:03 PM
mshi
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p.2 #4 · p.2 #4 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


hijazist wrote:
Honestly, I like the before a lot better. The one on the right is unflattering and looks like HDR, but maybe that's just me


Do you really assume what you view on screen is what you get in print?



Jan 10, 2013 at 09:43 PM
BenV
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p.2 #5 · p.2 #5 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


mshi wrote:
More aggressive sharpening can still rescue to a certain degree.



that looks incredibly horrible...



Jan 10, 2013 at 09:55 PM
SloPhoto
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p.2 #6 · p.2 #6 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


I presume that is shot with a nikon 70-200 f2.8?


If so, I am struggling with mirror slap caused blur with that lens. I can usually hand hold at <1/f with some reliability, yet struggle with what seems to be mirror slap blur from ~1/80-1/120th

Do you have any other tele lenses to try out?



Jan 11, 2013 at 12:07 AM
CAlbertson
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p.2 #7 · p.2 #7 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


hijazist wrote:
Honestly, I like the before a lot better. The one on the right is unflattering and looks like HDR, but maybe that's just me


I was about to say the same thing. Sharpening does NOT help in this case. In fact there are many classic potrait techniques and most of them involve softening the image. Starting with putting net over the lens and then those filters that look like glass with rain drops on them and even using low contrast film and nikon's "DC" lens

One old darkroom technique was to expose the paper then defocus the enlarger and reepose the paper



Jan 11, 2013 at 02:21 AM
wellsjt
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p.2 #8 · p.2 #8 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


We're overthinking this. As I posted at the start, the slightly blurry shot is at 1/80 at 85mm and the sharp example from the Canon is at 1/160 (the shot settings shown in the post is wrong about the sharp shot). Increase the shutter speed and work on handholding technique.


Jan 11, 2013 at 06:38 AM
mikereid27
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p.2 #9 · p.2 #9 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


I would agree that the shutter speed is the way to go…unless your client, family or friends want to look like a zombie then go with the increased sharpening.

A lot of times I use a flash outside as well to fill the subject's face in a controlled manner, but I do love to use ambient light when its possible. It looks like it was an overcast day, maybe if you had more ambient light you could have increased shutter speed, one last suggestion would have been to increase ISO and then subsequently could have increase shutter speed without underexposing your shot.



Jan 11, 2013 at 07:06 AM
adamdewilde
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p.2 #10 · p.2 #10 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


Your problem is with the lenses focus accuracy at certain distances. In the first shot, she doesn't look like she's blurry from motion blur, but from being slightly out of focus, the focus is on the fence behind her, see how it's sharp..

Think you might wanna consider sending your camera and lenses into nikon to be calibrated for min - mid - max focusing distances.



Jan 11, 2013 at 10:55 AM
okafoja
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p.2 #11 · p.2 #11 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


SloPhoto wrote:
I presume that is shot with a nikon 70-200 f2.8?

If so, I am struggling with mirror slap caused blur with that lens. I can usually hand hold at <1/f with some reliability, yet struggle with what seems to be mirror slap blur from ~1/80-1/120th

Do you have any other tele lenses to try out?


It was shot with 24-85 that came with D600. The sharp image was shot with 105VRII.



Jan 11, 2013 at 11:00 AM
GOVA
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p.2 #12 · p.2 #12 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


Shoots form each body looks terribly blurred. I don't think it relates to particular body that much.

There must be something else going on.

I did ISO1600 shoots with D800 and zeiss 100mm handheld and MF of course. Most looked much, much sharper than any of these.



Jan 11, 2013 at 11:12 AM
Hardcore
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p.2 #13 · p.2 #13 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


mshi wrote:
Do you really assume what you view on screen is what you get in print?


It should be. Mine is. On both of my laptop and desktop. The image I see on screen is what my print looks like. If your having problems with that, then I'm thinking you need to calibrate your monitors.



Jan 11, 2013 at 11:27 AM
James R
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p.2 #14 · p.2 #14 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


1. Have you tested these camera/lens combos on a tripod at the slower shutter speed? This will tell you if hand-holding technique is the problem. You should be able to shoot at 1/60 with a D800 and get a decent keeper rate. I've done it with a D800e and a D4. You will get soft focus sometimes, but, that might be the price you pay for the shot.

2. Have you checked lens focus on these cameras using tripod, live focus, and proper target? You might need to micro adjust the cameras to get best results.

BTW, I'm not buying shutter slap being the problem.

Good luck.



Jan 11, 2013 at 11:30 AM
mshi
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p.2 #15 · p.2 #15 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


Hardcore wrote:
It should be. Mine is. On both of my laptop and desktop. The image I see on screen is what my print looks like. If your having problems with that, then I'm thinking you need to calibrate your monitors.


The brightness, contrast, hue and color saturation may be approximately matched between two different output devices, such as screen and paper. However, I am eager to learn how you have managed to achieve identical sharpness levels in two entirely different outputs only using one identical set of sharpening parameters. Please enlighten us.



Jan 11, 2013 at 01:10 PM
eSchwab
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p.2 #16 · p.2 #16 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


mshi, he's not talking about the sharpness of the image. You've drastically increased the overall contrast of the image.


Jan 11, 2013 at 01:38 PM
Hardcore
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p.2 #17 · p.2 #17 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


mshi wrote:
The brightness, contrast, hue and color saturation may be approximately matched between two different output devices, such as screen and paper. However, I am eager to learn how you have managed to achieve identical sharpness levels in two entirely different outputs only using one identical set of sharpening parameters. Please enlighten us.


You didn't just sharpen that image. You increased the contrast like someone else said. I sharpen the image during processing and then I output sharpen the image via lightroom during the print process. I have yet to notice any softness in any of my prints.





Jan 11, 2013 at 01:44 PM
Erik Moore
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p.2 #18 · p.2 #18 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


I can't tell to be certain without seeing a full res copy of the shot that the problem with that first shot is blur and not missed focus as another poster seems to think. I do know this though-

I don't even try, unless my ISO and f-stop are maxed WAY out to shoot people with even a shutter speed that matches the focal length. People (since they move) almost always require >1/200, and often more if you expect to get a critically sharp shot. And thats even with a wide angle lens. For longer lenses (85, 105 etc), I try to go 2x or 3x the focal length. Anything less and you can expect blur from camera shake, especially with a 36MP camera.

In my opinion, the age old rule of thumb to try for 1/FL is woefully inadequate for most situations and completely outdated for high resolution cameras.

To sum: if you got sharp shots shooting people at 1/60th with a 85mm lens with your Canon, you just got really lucky, or you have impeccable technique and statue-like subjects. You should adjust your habits. D600 is completely fine at ISO 1600 and up. Use it.




Jan 11, 2013 at 02:05 PM
vtec44
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p.2 #19 · p.2 #19 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


It looks like motion blur to me, shutter speed of 1/80 vs 1/160 (based on EXIF info). I can usually do 1/90 handheld but will need VR below that.


Jan 16, 2013 at 02:07 PM
DocsPics
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p.2 #20 · p.2 #20 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.


High MP sensors are unforgiving for vibration, camera shake, anything that moves. Try tripod mount, LV, and remote release. If blurry still, then there is a problem.


Jan 16, 2013 at 02:57 PM
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