It's true that the sharpness at the center of a photo is usually more important than the far corners, but landscape photographers often want to convey the scene in front of them without leaving evidence of their hand, and that's why they want lenses with edge-to-edge sharpness. They want the viewer to have an unimpeded view of what they saw, hoping they will feel like they're actually seeing it firsthand.
Higher quality lens, better sharpness, colors, edge sharpness, build,weather sealants and durability.
It all comes down to what you are shooting, the weather conditions, who you are shooting for, personal work or sales to clients. YOU ultimately decide what direction you want to go in.
Whether you want to be a hobbyist or a professional. When people are paying you to produce a certain body of work, and your gear can't produce that, then you'll know it's time to get better gear. IF your clients can't see the difference, then why change.
If you are merely doing photography as a hobby, your income will dictate your gear choices.
nugeny wrote:
fast lenses cost a lot. And we do know, landscape photographers shot at f 7,8 and up.
S:o why do you buy fast lenses: f1.4, 2.8...? if not what do you use to get good IQ?
A fast lens enabled me to catch a fleeting Geisha in an automobile only dimly lit inside by the the beamlights of the rear bosozoku motorcycle escort behind her reflecting inside parts of the vehicle providing just enough light. I had to shoot 100% wide and push the limits of the camera and lens to grab the moment.
You can be scouting around for hours and hours and when the decisive moment arrives you only get one shot at it to get it right and that is where you need to have your tools of the trade and experience. For me it is fast glass(primes) Once you visualize the area(ie judge distances and lighting situation) and know what you need you use the appropriate lens and be prepared for the moment.
I shoot in challenging lighting situations where I have to carefully make use of the ambient lighting and going all wide is the only option and as wide as you can go. A fast prime is a tool like anything else.
In the past I have used primes for their stopped down performance as mentioned above. Since the Canon 24-70 2.8L II came out, I have been using it instead of my primes unless I need faster than F2.8. The 24-70 II is just as sharp at 2.8 and on as my 24L II, 35L, 50L, and 85L II. The only difference is more vignetting and distortion on the zoom. The only times I reach for the primes now is in low light or when shooting video.
