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Archive 2012 · Fuji GSW690III
  
 
jcolwell
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p.3 #1 · Fuji GSW690III


rattymouse wrote:
I did all that and I still got loose rolls, IF i changed brands of film. I never had problems if I kept shooting Fuji or Kodak or whatever. But as soon as I changed a brand, then the next roll would be loose enough for major light leaks. The next roll would be fine.


I had a different experience, as I frequently changed between Astia and E100G, depending on the subject and mood I wanted to convey.



Dec 20, 2012 at 12:15 PM
rattymouse
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p.3 #2 · Fuji GSW690III


carstenw wrote:
I don't quite understand this problem description... Light leaks? How should the brand of film and take-up spool be able to affect the tightness of the light seals?

Or do you mean that the film would be wound so loosely when done that light would seep in at the edges?


The problem was light leaks because the film wound so loosely, it was wider than the film roll at each end. Why that happened with different brands of film, I could never figure out.




Dec 20, 2012 at 12:26 PM
andyjaggy82
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p.3 #3 · Fuji GSW690III


Good information guys. I will be sticking with all Fuji film, provia and reala most likely, maybe the occasional velvia. It also looks like I have no choice but to stick with 120 rolls, 220 seems to be MIA.


Dec 20, 2012 at 02:30 PM
JimBuchanan
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p.3 #4 · Fuji GSW690III


I had the little brother GS645 Wide and it was my favorite camera. I have big sharp prints taken with it and it was no bigger than a dSLR. Only problem was the processor being 12 miles away.


Dec 20, 2012 at 08:36 PM
sirimiri
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p.3 #5 · Fuji GSW690III


Jim, it's your method that wholly avoids this "overspool" issue for me, regardless of the (previous) film type that effectively donates its bones as the takeup spool for the next roll.

But I lost some nice Velvia 50 and Fujichrome 64T shots, before I wised up. The Velvia was a killer in particular, as it was 220. Hell, the 64T was bad loss too as I had being using it for star trails with the T setting





Edited on Dec 21, 2012 at 04:38 PM · View previous versions



Dec 20, 2012 at 09:56 PM
andyjaggy82
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p.3 #6 · Fuji GSW690III


Got the camera. It took me 20 minutes to figure out how to load the film... I think I have it right. I tried to keep tension on it while spooling it by pressing my thumb on the film roll. I then held the lever taught while I closed the back. Similarly when I finished a roll I opened up the back and wasn't quite sure what to do. I just popped the roll out and pulled the little tab open and wound it around the spool. I must say medium format film doesn't inspire confidence. I kept wondering if light was somehow getting into the film. I'm taking it in to get it developed today, we'll see how it turns out.

I used film that expired in 2007, I am wondering how that is going to effect the results, I probably should have used a fresh roll for my initial testing, just to eliminate that variable.

Other impressions. The camera is a block of metal. I love it. Not a single electronic on the whole thing, my wife actually didn't believe me when I told her it doesn't use batteries. After a ran a roll through the camera just to test it's operation, she asked me if I was going to go hunt some wooly mammoth for dinner.

I ran out to the lake this morning to do some test shots. I really enjoyed the experience, it really frees you up to focus on the shot. I composed the shot, set the exposure, and focused. That's it. No mucking about with white balance, mirror lockup, auto modes, iso settings, focus modes, lens choice, focal length choice, etc.... Just spend the time finding a good composition, then push the button. Clink! Done. Next shot. Love it.

Assuming the image quality lives up to it's reputation, I think it's going to be a keeper.



Dec 21, 2012 at 03:57 PM
andyjaggy82
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p.3 #7 · Fuji GSW690III


I've noticed they recommend loading and unloading film in subdues light? How important is that? Should I keep my exposed film in some sort of black bag or something?

Also how trustworthy is the DOF chart? Can I trust it or is it a bit too generous with considering what is in sharp focus?



Dec 21, 2012 at 04:18 PM
naturephoto1
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p.3 #8 · Fuji GSW690III


andyjaggy82 wrote:
I've noticed they recommend loading and unloading film in subdues light? How important is that? Should I keep my exposed film in some sort of black bag or something?

Also how trustworthy is the DOF chart? Can I trust it or is it a bit too generous with considering what is in sharp focus?


It is always recommended to load and unload film in subdued light. That can be in the shade or even your own shadow. Once the film is out of the camera pulled tightly and sealed it is relatively light tight. Don't put the film into the sun. But putting into your camera bag or a pouch or something like that should be adequate.

Rich



Dec 21, 2012 at 04:27 PM
andyjaggy82
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p.3 #9 · Fuji GSW690III


Sounds reasonable, just don't load unload in direct sunlight and I should be good. I would imagine using 100 speed film makes it even less of an issue.


Dec 21, 2012 at 04:29 PM
naturephoto1
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p.3 #10 · Fuji GSW690III


andyjaggy82 wrote:
Sounds reasonable, just don't load unload in direct sunlight and I should be good. I would imagine using 100 speed film makes it even less of an issue.


You should be fine. Yes the slower the film the less the sensitivity. If you used a high ISO film there would be much more concern.

Rich



Dec 21, 2012 at 04:33 PM
 

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carstenw
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p.3 #11 · Fuji GSW690III


andyjaggy82 wrote:
I've noticed they recommend loading and unloading film in subdues light? How important is that? Should I keep my exposed film in some sort of black bag or something?


When you open the back and pull out the film, just give the paper a bit of a tug to pull it tight before you lick the tape and close it. After that it should be fine if you don't let direct sunlight hit the spool.

By the way, some photo stores, like Foto Impex in Berlin, sell plastic film containers for 120 film, just like the black ones which come with Kodak 135 film. I have a bunch of these and use them at all times after shooting the films, until I develop.



Dec 21, 2012 at 05:46 PM
philip_pj
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p.3 #12 · Fuji GSW690III


Use Fuji rolls only. Work on your technique with old rolls. Get the film path dead centre across the frame on take up. Always remove rolls carefully, in soft light, and grab the receiving roll fast it keep it tight as possible.

To help doing this, wind the lever carefully after the last frame, not too much...just enough to release it, then open the door carefully. I found 220's greater bulk better than 120. Wind on holding the left thumb firm on the unfurling roll - you will not damage the industrial strength winder mechanism - unlike some from Mamiya. Pull used rolls very tight then lick (and spit).

If concerned get some M and M containers to store the used rolls.

My signature pic is shot with a GW690 scanned with a Multi Pro Minolta.



Dec 23, 2012 at 08:31 AM
glacierpete
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p.3 #13 · Fuji GSW690III


andyjaggy82 wrote:
Interesting comparison for anyone who wants to look.

http://kbesios.com/blog/2012/10/18/nikon-d800e-vs-6x9-medium-format-film-part-iii/

To me it looks like the D800 and 6X9 are very comparable in the amount of detail captured. The grain on the film is pretty heavy, he states himself it seemed worse than usual. I would imagine with slide film and a drum scan the 6x9 would actually pull ahead of the D800. Though with more rigorous shooting constraints and a better lens the D800 would be better as well, so in the end they would still be pretty close.


I had a GSW90690 II for years. Phantastic tool.

I now use a Sigma DP2M. The form factor is very similar. . Same kind of brick, but filled with excellent electronics and a really unique foveon sensor, and a perfect lens that equals about 45mm. There is also a Sigma DP1M with a 28mm equivalent lens, that would be the same as one the FujiGSW 690.

As with the GSW690II the level of detail is incredible thanks to the sensor lens combination.




Dec 23, 2012 at 10:05 AM
andyjaggy82
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p.3 #14 · Fuji GSW690III


The rolls have actually been very tight when I have unloaded, I guess I must be doing it right. hopefully the first few rolls don't come back with light streaks.

My one disappointment with the camera has been the viewfinder, I think I expected it to be bigger, I was surprised at how small it felt. As far as focusing, since 99% of what I will use this camera for is landscapes, I think I can just get away with the distance scale for focusing. I think if I focus at 10m and use f22 I will be good 90% of the time. At least according to the scale.

I've already noticed the extreme wide angle shots that I am used to being able to do on my dlsr are not going to be an option here. It's just not a wide enough lens, and I think the medium format medium makes it too difficult to get things from 1-2 feet to infinity in sharp focus.



Dec 23, 2012 at 02:50 PM
luminosity
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p.3 #15 · Fuji GSW690III


I wouldn't stop down to f22. Diffraction will rob you of a considerable amount of sharpness. It isn't as marked as it is with a 35mm lens, but it's still a major toll to pay. I wouldn't go past f16 if I were you, and I speak as someone who uses a Mamiya 7 as my main camera body right now.


Dec 24, 2012 at 04:19 AM
jcolwell
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p.3 #16 · Fuji GSW690III


I generally shot landscapes at f/8 or f/11, using the rangefinder to focus at a distance that I wanted more or less in the centre of the DOF. OTOH, if you want infinity to be in focus, you should focus on infinity (see Merklinger).


Dec 24, 2012 at 12:56 PM
ken.vs.ryu
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p.3 #17 · Fuji GSW690III


I just read that one should focus on dof over diffraction.


Dec 24, 2012 at 02:28 PM
luminosity
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p.3 #18 · Fuji GSW690III


Whoever said that doesn't know what they're talking about.


Dec 24, 2012 at 05:24 PM
andyjaggy82
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p.3 #19 · Fuji GSW690III


Thanks for the info guys, I will try to avoid going beyond f16. I always thought that a little diffraction would be preferable to an out of focus image, but maybe not. I suppose it depends on the picture.


Dec 24, 2012 at 05:55 PM
redisburning
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p.3 #20 · Fuji GSW690III


luminosity wrote:
Whoever said that doesn't know what they're talking about.


+1

if you really want that much DoF either go small sensor or get movements. I suggest the latter, and using the Fuji for what it excels at, which like all rangefinders IMO is putting the plane of best focus precisely where you want it to be.



Dec 24, 2012 at 07:30 PM
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