buggz2k wrote:
Just a quick observance and question:
Any reason to not keep AF selector in Manual vs Single?
You can still use the AF-L button on the back to AF.
I may be wrong, but I think-- at least theoretically-- that AF-L during Manual Focus is setup to be quick but not as precise.
In manual mode, I set the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.
Now I have an exposure compensation dial with a +-2 EV range.
What value exactly, am I now adjusting?
Hopefully, none of the above settings?
But, what is left?
I am confused.
In manual mode, I set the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.
Now I have an exposure compensation dial with a +-2 EV range.
What value exactly, am I now adjusting?
Hopefully, none of the above settings?
But, what is left?
I am confused.
I haven't looked that carefully about using the +/- EV correction in the instructions for the camera. In the past at least with my Leicas and other cameras, the EV correction was used when the camera was in the Auto modes offered by the cameras.
In the manual mode you can change the shutter speed with the shutter wheel and I would also guess in some way with the Fuji lenses (I don't have any, I only have my Leica R lenses at present) the aperture. But, you should be able to adjust the aperture of the Fuji lenses. Additionally you can adjust the shutter speed with the arrows on the back of the camera around the menu button in +/- in 1/3 stop increments at any shutter speed set on the camera shutter speed wheel on the top deck of the camera.
Exposure compensation is only active if you're in Aperture priority, shutter priority or program. If you're setting speeds and apertures, EC does nothing. Even with manual exposure and Auto ISO, it'll still select the ISO to meter at 0 EC, regardless of the EC dial.
Jman13 wrote:
Exposure compensation is only active if you're in Aperture priority, shutter priority or program. If you're setting speeds and apertures, EC does nothing. Even with manual exposure and Auto ISO, it'll still select the ISO to meter at 0 EC, regardless of the EC dial.
Thanks Jordan. That was my guess and in accordance with my experience with other cameras. But, what I mentioned in my post is still pertinent about making adjustments in +/- 1/3 stop increments when working in Manual with the buttons on the back of the camera for any set shutter speed except B, T and I would guess 1/4000 for +.
So, now that the dust has settled and Adobe has fixed the issues with RAW processing.....what are X-E1 users finding to be the best RAW software? Purchasing an X-E1 tomorrow. Very excited
802walker wrote:
So, now that the dust has settled and Adobe has fixed the issues with RAW processing.....what are X-E1 users finding to be the best RAW software? Purchasing an X-E1 tomorrow. Very excited
I suspect most of use at least for the time being are using LR4.4RC and the latest version of Camera RAW7.4 (I think) especially if you already if you have them and due to their ease of use. Others are using the latest version of Capture One 7 or Silkypix 5.
May I ask a basic question? Camera Raw only relates to Photoshop, right? It's separate from Lightroom, right? Lightroom had it's own update that is wholly separate from Camera Raw?
I was looking way to decouple AF-lock from AE-lock in the same way one can with a DSLR (AF-on to control focus, then shutter to activate the meter and release.
The only way that this seems to be possible is to put focus into manual, hit AF/AE Lock, then press and hold the shutter. Is this the way Fuji intended it, or is there another (i.e. "better") way to accomplish this?
As far as I have read, other forums, that's the way it is.
I also have AF lock via the back button.
It also works in AF mode too, if you have menu items:
AE/AF=LOCK MODE to AE&AF ON/OFF SWITCH
AE/AF-LOCK BUTTON to AF LOCK ONLY
corposant wrote:
I was looking way to decouple AF-lock from AE-lock in the same way one can with a DSLR (AF-on to control focus, then shutter to activate the meter and release.
The only way that this seems to be possible is to put focus into manual, hit AF/AE Lock, then press and hold the shutter. Is this the way Fuji intended it, or is there another (i.e. "better") way to accomplish this?
Does anyone convert OOC Jpegs to Tiffs and then edit them? Does that work regarding lossless editing?
I love the OOC jpegs for their simplicity and stunning output, but some I still want to edit. Is there any point to this or once a jpeg, it's already a lossy format?
But you are limiting your self to creativity. Try it for awhile and see what you are missing. Remember every time you edit and save a jpeg it is degraded,not so with RAW.
