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Defective 5D Mark 3 with Red noise in blacks and shadows?
  
 
abqnmusa
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p.2 #1 · Defective 5D Mark 3 with Red noise in blacks and shadows?


avoid underexposure



Oct 12, 2012 at 03:16 PM
cineski
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p.2 #2 · Defective 5D Mark 3 with Red noise in blacks and shadows?


Fixed it for you ;-)

kodakeos wrote:
I do enjoy replies like that. So helpful.

My the door on my Mercedes benz squeeks when i shut it - Ignore it and enjoy the car!

Right... Its a $3500 camera and he is seeing a problem. For a camera, a bad sensor is pretty much the worst thing.

On the other hand, I dont see any banding/noise in the sizes I looked at. Some noise on a Canon sensor is expected in the darkest shadows.




Oct 12, 2012 at 03:41 PM
mttran
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p.2 #3 · Defective 5D Mark 3 with Red noise in blacks and shadows?


+1, CWB does help if you really need to take the wider DR & fast lens shot. 5Dc (12 bit) seem to handle a little better than 5D2/3 (14 bit) when shooting against the light. 5D2 is the worse of three in this case.


Oct 12, 2012 at 06:55 PM
Monito
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p.2 #4 · Defective 5D Mark 3 with Red noise in blacks and shadows?


TLA alert!

Custom White Balance (CWB) only helps with in-camera JPEGs. When you shoot Raw, no white balance setting affects the pixels. With Raw, a CWB can make the HistoBlinkyMeter (histogram + blinkies) a little more accurate, but no pixels are affected because white balance is set during Raw conversion.



Oct 12, 2012 at 09:49 PM
mttran
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p.2 #5 · Defective 5D Mark 3 with Red noise in blacks and shadows?


I said: "help" not "fixed it"....

"TLA alert! ", you seem really GOOD at these type of post

YOU might want to add and/or verify some of your nonsense response to Ander's list.

Monito wrote:

...

I suspect that the camera is not defective. The way to check is to make some side by side shots with someone who has the same camera.

Calgary is a large enough city that somebody on FM in Calgary with a 5D3 must be willing to help out.

If you make shots with the same lens from the same position (two carefully aligned tripods or one tripod with the two cameras aligned by checking the corners of the frame in the viewfinder) with the same ISO, shutter speed, an aperture, then you'll be able to look for differences.

If your technique is really good (using a single tripod in the exact same spot), you'll be able to manually align the images in Photoshop and use the Difference layer treatment, exaggerated by a super S-shaped curve.

Shoot test shots at all ISOs. Use the same aperture for all the shots: f/8. Adjust the shutterspeed as you adjust the ISO. Be sure to have proper exposure (your two posted shots seem to be good in that regard). Use a cable release (remote release) or use the 10 second self-timer. Use mirror lockup. Wait at least 3 seconds after mirror up for vibrations to damp down.

Take it outdoors on a sunny day with the sun behind you or over one shoulder, between the hours of 10 am and 2 pm for the most repeatable consistent constant lighting.

The point of all the rigorous technique is to eliminate as many variables as possible.

No camera is perfect. It is a truism of testing that if you go looking for problems you will find them and then you have to determine how big the problem is and what is the cause -- usually it is experimental error.

I think if I had your camera, based on those images, I would be very happy with the camera. I think if you printed those images quite large (20 x 30 inches) you'd not see your 'problem' and you'd be quite happy with the camera. Pixel peeping at 100% is equivalent to even larger.

What is the largest you have ever printed a DSLR picture?

Can someone in Calgary help xopher do a comparison?


Now, what is your position regarding of 5d2/3... canon low iso wide DR shadows chroma noise & banding noise issues, your honest opinion please



Oct 12, 2012 at 10:08 PM
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